Nya Kangri (6,480m), at the entrance to the Arganglas Valley, has received multiple attempts, including two from me (AAJ 2017 and 2023). In summer 2023, I tried again with Orestis Mitrou- Kintis, approaching the southeast side from Tirit village in the Nubra Valley on July 18.

In two days, we reached a camp at 5,430m on the glacier moraine. We made an attempt starting just after midnight on July 20. We got off-track in the dark and only regained our planned line, the south- southeast spur, at sunrise. (This route was tried by an Indian expedition in 2016; see AAJ 2017.) The snow was soft, deep, and avalanche-prone. We turned back at 6,015m, regained camp that day, and the following day descended to Sumar in the Nubra Valley.

We then traveled northwest down the Shyok River valley, then north to Waris village, with the aim of exploring unclimbed K25 (a.k.a. Pastan or Fastan Kangri, 6,520m, 34°54'35"N, 77°08'39"E). The west side of this peak is  an almost 2,500m-high rocky triangle, but farther south a gully leads to the south col at 5,500m. We reached this point and saw two possible routes to the summit. The first would be to climb the granite south ridge, which above 6,000m becomes a slope of mixed rock and snow; the second would be to descend the east side of the col to a large glacier and then climb the south-southeast slopes. Both would require about three days from the col, and due to limited time and weather, we attempted neither.

—Nikolaos Kroupis, Greece