Polar Sun Arm, Mikrokozmik Variations

Canada, Nunavut, Baffin Island, Kangiqtualuk Uqququti
Author: Whitney Clark. Climb Year: 2022. Publication Year: 2023.

Looking down pitch nine of MikroKozmik Variations (1,062m, VII M5 A4+) on Polar Sun Arm. Photo by Marek Raganowicz.

Marek Raganowicz completed a solo ascent on the north face of Polar Sun Arm, the huge buttress extending from Polar Sun Spire in Kangiqtualuk Uqquqti (formerly Sam Ford Fjord). The route began on an independent line to the left of Superbalance (VII M7+ A4), which Raganowicz established in May 2012 with Marcin Tomaszewski (AAJ 2013). After 15 pitches up to M5 and A4+, Raganowicz joined Superbalance for another 11 pitches, which led him to the top of the Arm.

Raganowicz spent seven days in early April fixing the lower section of the route before committing to the wall. On April 17, he started his push in bad weather (with temperatures as low as -30°C) and spent the next 35 days on the face. Raganowicz used two portaledge camps on the first 15 pitches, and after he joined Superbalance, another three camps were required to make it to the top of the Arm. Raganowicz ended his route there, while both Superbalance and the Norwegian Route (Bo-Hagen-Roisli-Wiik, 2000), to the left, continue up the headwall to the top of Polar Sun Spire.

The partial new route, MikroKozmik Variations (1,062m, VII M5 A4+), had many technical challenges, including rotten rock and loose blocks. On the first 15 pitches, Raganowicz drilled only two belay bolts; all other belays used removable gear.

— Whitney Clark, AAJ, with information from Marek Raganowicz, Poland

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