Chekigo, South Face to East Ridge

Nepal, Rolwaling Himal
Author: Marc Subirana. Climb Year: 2021. Publication Year: 2022.

image_6
Members of the Spanish female mountaineering team near Tashi Lapcha Pass. Photo by Marc Subirana

The Spanish women’s mountaineering team was operating in the Rolwaling at the same time as the ment's team was in the Dorje Lhakpa region. (See the report from the men's team here.) Our expedition lasted from the beginning of October to November 5, with “base camp” established in one of the comfortable guest houses in the village of Na at 4,183m.

We first climbed Yalung Ri (5,650m) and went to 6,100m on Parchamo for acclimatization, then sought refuge in Na during a period of bad weather. When it improved, we went for our main objective, Chekigo (6,257m). We wanted to repeat the Alegre-Baró route Sopeti on the south face and climb a more direct start to the French Route on the southeast face of Chekigo Sano (6,121m). However, both attempts failed due to the heavy snow deposition.

As our last chance, we opted to try a new line on the right side of the south face of Chekigo, which Mikel Zabalza had noticed during a previous visit. The first half was a rocky buttress, while the second had snow, ice, and seracs at the top. On October 30, Laia Duaigües, Nieves Gil, and I climbed this line in a 22-hour push from a camp at a little over 5,000m (1,000m, TD), reaching the east-northeast ridge but then having to turn back (at around 6,000m) due to strong winds.

— Marc Subirana, Spain



Media Gallery