El Monstruo, east face, Aprendiz del Monstruo

Argentina-Chile, Northern Patagonia, Cochamó
Author: Nathan Conroy . Climb Year: 2013. Publication Year: 2014.

In late January 2014, Chris Moore, Katie Ryan, Cooper Varney, and I began to porter our gear across the strenuous 13km approach from La Junta to the base of El Monstruo. We set our eyes on a direct and sustained line on the east face, to the right of the one I completed last season, La Presencia de Mi Padre (AAJ 2013). At the top of the first pitch, we already knew we were onto something good. After a total of three trips to the wall, doing three- to four-day pushes each time, we completed our new route Aprendiz del Monstruo (1,300m, VI 5.12) on February 19. Of the 22 pitches, only five are easier than 5.10, and there are two pitches of 5.12. The quality of the climbing carries right through from bottom to top.

This is the second free route on the wall and avoids the upper snowfield at the top, negating the need for any snow equipment. We established the route ground-up, and the climb involved a number of bird beaks and other small gear in addition to some bolts. We first aided and cleaned a number of pitches before redpointing them. From the top of the formation, we descended the northeast ridge as the Polish team did from their route La Gran Raja (AAJ 2006). Going this way, you will need to downclimb moderate terrain until reaching the rappels for Pared Espejo in Anfiteatro, or continue to the pass at Valle Trinidad where there is an established fixed line. This descent, in its own right, would make for an involved mountaineering route.

Since 2013, a massive rock scar has adorned the far right side of the wall. The debris left a path that bisects La Gran Raja, appearing to have obliterated its initial pitches.

Nathan Conroy, USA



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