Simon Chatelan on pitch 15 of L’Accidentelle et l’Accidenté on Aiguille de l’Amone. Photo: Silvan Schüpbach The following climbs appeared on the “Big List” of notable 2019 ascents prepared in advance of Piolets d’Or nominations. The list was ...
In November, I began my 19th expedition to Patagonia but my first to the Northern Icefield. Joining me were Lukas Hinterberger and Nicolas Hojac. We spent three weeks at a base camp in the forest below the Nef Glacier. On our second week, November...
LAST JUNE I was guiding three people for a ski descent of the Coleman-Deming Route on Mt. Baker. Wind the previous day had exceeded 20 mph, loading fresh snow onto the Roman Wall, the 40° headwall before the summit plateau. I first guided this rou...
On August 20, I (male, 26) drove up to the Voo for some after-work top-rope soloing. I set up a fixed line on To the Moon (5.10b/V0), a 35-foot crack with a bolted anchor that is often bouldered. I had not climbed the route before. For soloing, I...
On August 9, Darwin Day (64) was attempting to summit Gannett Peak to complete his goal of climbing the highest mountain in each of the Western states when he began to feel ill. It’s not known how high Day and his climbing partner reached on the 1...
On August 10, Zijah Kurtovic (63) fell to his death during an attempt on 11,889-foot Pingora Peak. While leading the final pitch (5.6) of a route on the east side of Pingora, his climbing partner (male, 67 ) fell 40 to 50 feet and suffered fractur...
At approximately 11:15 a.m. on August 31, a climber called 911 to report that he was with a 38-year-old man from another climbing party who had been injured by rockfall on Gilkey Tower and was unable to move under his own power. The caller was a s...
Just after 5 p.m. on July 18, a climber made a 911 call reporting that his partner had been hit by a very large boulder; he then fell and sustained injuries to his back, foot, and hand. The two climbers had been planning to do Raven’s Crack, near...
At approximately 7:45 p.m. on September , Teton Interagency Dispatch transferred a call to ranger R. Schuster from a distressed 28-year-old female climber. She explained that she’d taken a 30-foot fall on snow while descending the Middle Teton and...
On August 23, at about 3:30 p.m., rangers received a call from a 24-year-old-man who had summited the Middle Teton via the Southwest Couloir but on the descent quickly became lost. As he attempted to descend a gully above the Northwest Ice Couloir...
At about 5:45 p.m. on July 17 , the Jenny Lake rangers were notified of an injured 17-year-old female below the south side of Middle Teton. Rangers were immediately summoned to the Lupine Meadows Rescue Cache, as was the park’s contract helicopter...
On July 25, a very experienced 71-year-old climber called for help from Teewinot, where he was climbing the standard east face route. At around 10:30 a.m., while attempting to transition onto rock at 10,500 feet from the top of a large snow field,...
My significant other/climbing partner and I (male, age 20) had spent most of August 6 sightseeing around Yellowstone. After seven hours of driving, I got antsy and checked Mountain Project to see if there were any climbs nearby. I found a 5.5 and ...
In the morning of September 22, my partner (male, 34) and I (female, 38) were climbing at the Beer Wall. We had hoped to warm up on a 5.4, but the route was taken, so we chose Daisy Cutter, a nearby 5.7 sport route. My partner led. The route begin...
On July 6, a climber was attempting to lead the rst pitch of a popular 5.8 trad route called the Burn. According to witnesses, the leader climbed toward the roof but veered significantly right and off route, intersecting the first pitch of Ecstasy...
At approximately 2 p.m. on July 6, two climbers (males, age 13 and unknown) were attempting to descend from the South Peak via the Pleasant Overhang rappel station on the west face. They had chosen to simul-rappel but did not know they needed two ...
On June 11, Doug (52) and his partner were planning to lead Ecstasy Junior, a popular two-pitch 5.4 on the lower west face of the south peak of Seneca. They opted to begin the climb from above the traditional ramp, eliminating a half pitch of vege...
Two climbers arrived at the bolted anchors atop the rst pitch of Sky Line Traverse on June 2, planning to climb Rear Entry (5.8) to the Lower Broadway ledge. The leader, Mike (50), traversed up and right to a large block that marks the beginning o...
On May 31, a team of four climbers set out from White River Campground to climb Liberty Ridge. Three days later, Yevgeniy Krasnitskiy (39), Ruslan Khasbulatov (33), Vasily Aushev (35), and Constantine Toporov (37 ) called 911 to report they were s...
At about 8:30 p.m. on May 29, a climber called 911 to report a large rockfall around 10,800 feet at Thumb Rock, high camp for the Liberty Ridge route. The climber relayed to dispatchers that Arleigh William “Bill” Dean (46) had been killed and two...