Raldang Spire above the Baspa Valley. (1) Baba Ji (2019). (2) American-Belgium-Italian route (2019). (3) American attempt (2015). Photo: Much Mayr A North Face team visited the Baspa Valley in the autumn, mostly operating from the plateau nor...
Looking north from Peak 1,303m, showing the line of Å Dæven! Torssukatak Fjord and Pamiagdluk Island are to the right. In the middle distance on the left side of the fjord is the top of Maujit Qoqarsassia and its subsidiary summit, the Thumbn...
Nalumasortoq from the south-southwest, showing La Cura up the middle of the south face of the Central Pillar. For more routes on the various faces see AAJ 2004. Photo by Federica Mingolla Tasermiut is a paradise, not only for rock climbing bu...
Edu Marin dangles from the Great Arch, high above the Getu River. Half of Valhalla’s 14 pitches cross the roof, totaling 300 meters of climbing. Photo: Karel Downsbrough “I need to bolt a line there!” That was Edu Marin’s reaction after Dani ...
San Isidro Canyon is located just west of El Salto, the limestone climbing paradise in northern Mexico. Five miles past the town of La Ciénega de González, the canyon boasts huge potential for multipitch routes. Over long weekends in September and...
Sam Tucker working his way up a fin feature on the four pitch of the Ibiza Club Weapon (250m, 5.14b). Photo by Edwin Teran Google Maps shows an impressive blue line when displaying the route from Calgary, Alberta, to El Salto in La Ciénaga d...
At an elevation of 1,362m, Cañón de la Sandía is situated at the southeastern end of the larger Huasteca climbing area. This canyon can be seen from the road 2.1 km past Rompepicos Dam, with an obvious overhanging orange wall. In April, I was fort...
The south pillar of La Gloria (9,688 feet), west of El Salto, showing the 1,500-foot route Rezando (13 pitches, 5.11+). Photo by Zach Clanton The first time I saw La Gloria, it was just a dreamy nameless pinnacle high above the ponderosa pin...
The 2018 Brazilian line Qujanag on the west face of Ulamertorssuaq. In the upper section the route more or less climbs the right edge of the great dihedral taken by Magic Tromblon, between that route and Moby Dick. Photo by Marcos Vinicius Toder...
Looking northeast across the entrances of the three upper branches of the Gurreholm Dal. The 2014 first ascent of Peak 1,630m (labeled Mt. Doom by the 2018 expedition) followed the curving ridge in front of it, over the lower northern (left) top...
Looking west from the mountain the 2019 team called Dromedary Peak. The conspicuous sharp summit on the ridge at the far side of the valley is Peak 1,569m. “Castle Peak,” climbed by the 2019 expedition, is the next main (pyramid-shaped) peak on ...
The unclimbed east face of Northern Sun Spire (e). The upper section of A Grand Day Out, which climbs the west face, is marked. The mountain marked (a) is Peak 1,881m, climbed by the west ridge. Tom Harding In a year when the rapid melting of...
When I first came to La Huasteca to open the route Nayeri (500m, 12b, AAJ 2010) and later Pau (550m, 5.13b, AAJ 2016), both on the Tatewari Wall, I saw a beautiful black, north-facing wall across the valley. It was begging to be climbed. La Pared...
Martin Siller on pitch 11 of Xibalbá Uprising (850m, 5.12a/b) in Cañon del Sumidero. Photo: Jan Hoebeeck For millions of years, the Grijalva River carved the Cañon del Sumidero, and it is now one of the most important tourist attractions ...
Mt. Grosvenor (6,376m) from the northwest. (1) Tcheu c'te Panthère (2019). (2) Central Couloir (2010). (3) Black Wolves and Blue Poppies (2011). (4) Approximate location of past French and Slovenian attempts. (5) Southwest ridge (2003). Photo...
The 2019 route on the northwest face of Bogda V. The final difficult ridge to the top is not visible. Photo: Li Zongli Dili Xiati and Li Zongli made their first attempt on the northwest face of Bogda V in 2010. [Bogda V is here defined as the...
The west face of Abi in the northwest Siguniang Range. (1) Chen-Hua-Tong Route (2019). (2) Shivering (Yan-Zhao, 2010). Until 2019 there was only one route on the west face of Abi (5,694m): Shivering (5.7 M3 AI2, Li-Yan-Zhao, 2010). Chen Chuju...
Abi from the southeast. (1) West face and southwest ridge (Shivering, Li-Yan-Zhao, 2010). (2) Breakthrough (Wang-Xiang, 2019). (3) Graduation Exam (Liu, 2014). On the original ascent of Abi, in 2004, French climbers continued up this large snow ...
In mid-October, David Suela and Felipe "Tronko" Valverde from Spain climbed a hard new ice and mixed line on the west face of Chugimago (Chukyima Go, 6,258m), between the 2014 Hennesse-Kastelic line (the original route on the west face) and the 20...
While acclimatizing before unsuccessful attempts on the south face of Nuptse and south face of Lhotse Shar in the spring, Jordi Corominas and Jordi Tozas (Spain) climbed a steep ice couloir on the northeast flank of Ama Dablam's southeast ridge. T...