Leaving the bivouac on September 7, 2019, at 4,480m on the northeast face of Sauk Dzhaylyau Central. Supplied by Anna Piunova The development of the Sauk Dzhaylyau Cirque began in 1977 with a visit by climbers from Leningrad. Expeditions ...
Kotina seen from the southwest. (1a) Russian Direct on Dreaming Spires (2018, to summit). (1b) Dreaming Spires (2012, not to summit). (2) An Inconvenient Truth (2012). (3) Awesome Fucking Dihedral (2012). (4) Krukonogi (2019). (5) Czarna Wolga (...
Kotina seen from the southwest. (1a) Russian Direct on Dreaming Spires (2018, to summit). (1b) Dreaming Spires (2012, not to summit). (2) An Inconvenient Truth (2012). (3) Awesome Fucking Dihedral (2012). (4) Krukonogi (2019). (5) Czarna Wolga (...
Pik Minteke (5,482m). The Swiss route of ascent followed the right skyline—the northwest ridge. Photo by Silvan Schüpbach A group of seven Swiss female alpinists (Anne Flechsig, Florence Nikles, Lisa Pfalgraz, Rahel Schönauer, Ramona Volken, ...
Rereading Classics on the north face of Pik Blok. Supplied by Anna Piunova From August 6 to 10, and in a total climbing time of 57 hours, Alexander Parfenov, Alexey Sukharev, and Vjacheslav Timofeev, from Krasnoyarsk and Novosibirsk, Siberia,...
Drew Marshall climbs a 5.10c pitch on Deep Impact (5 pitches, 5.11a) on the Slhanny’s Dog Wall. Photo by Danny Guestrin New route development continued to be very popular in Squamish and the surrounding Sea to Sky corridor during 2017–2019, p...
The Princess Louisa Inlet Wall, rising about 1,400 meters at the head of a fjord off Jervis Inlet. (1) PLI Trail (17 pitches, ED1/2 V 5.10+, Brodie-Rowat, 2002). (2) Journey to the Center of the Earth (25 pitches, VI 5.10+ C2, Besen-Heinrich, 20...
The route line for Kootenay Canaleta (350m, D+ WI4 M5) on the north face of Gimli Peak (2,774m). Photo by Douglas Noblet The Valhallas are primarily a summertime rock climbing destination, but that doesn’t mean winter-season climbing is impos...
The southwest face of Rugged Mountain in the Haihte Range of Vancouver Island. (The photo was taken in a dry February.) The route line for Ahren Rankin, Garner Bergeron, and James Rode’s Thunderbird (ca 800m, 22 pitches, 5.10 A1) is in red; the ...
THE ADVENTUER'S SON. Roman Dial. William Morrow, 2020. Hardcover, 351 pages, $28.99. In this heart-wrenching memoir, Roman Dial walks the reader through that most horrific of losses, the death of one’s child. On July 10, 2014, Cody Roman Dial be...
Ben Sanford climbing onto the summit ridge of Mt. Haast after the first ascent of Hotline on the east face. Photo by Gavin Lang The 2018–2019 summer climbing season in New Zealand was highlighted by several significant repeat ascents in Aorak...
Looking more or less south up the western arm of the Spang Nala Glacier from Chomotang at the three peaks climbed by a French party in August 2019: Spang Nala Dome, Spang Nala Kangri, and Sum Nomo Kangri. Photo by Laurent Lafforgue The combin...
During the descent of the east ridge of Menthosa after making the first traverse. The ridge drops to a wide col, the Urgus Pass, then rises again to a triangular rocky peak on the left (Urgus Pharbrang). Photo: Spencer Gray Rushad Nanavatty, ...
The Chomotang Group seen from the valley running southwest from near to the Sirsir La. (A) Chomotang south-southwest top. (B) Chomotang northeast (designated Chomotang I on most maps but actually the second-highest top in the group and more accu...
This historic descent was made in October 2017 but was not previously reported in the AAJ. This is a first-person account. The Caroline Face—the huge, steep, serac-laden southeast face of Aoraki/Mt. Cook, New Zealand’s highest peak (3,724m), ha...
The west faces of Bhagirathi III (right) and Bhagirathi IV. (1) Huserka-Smolen attempt (2019). (2) Stairway to Heaven (2004). (3) Scottish Route (1982). Photo by Ondrej Huserka As part of a larger Slovakian expedition to the Gangotri, Jan Smo...
The summit (north) ridge of unclimbed Chombu seen from the north-northwest. Photo: Victor Saunders By October 10, Mick Fowler and I were running out of time. We had ruled out the east (not accessible from our base camp), the west (too dangero...
The beautiful Rongdo Valley is located in Nubra and administratively belongs to Ladakh (recently and controversially separated from the state of Jammu and Kashmir). Many of its mountains exceed 6,000m, but as Rongdo is close to the border with Chi...
Looking up the Rongdo Valley from Fatha Gompa to the summer herding village of Daksa. The two new rock routes established in 2019 are on the cliff with the prominent black streak (a waterfall) beyond Daksa and on the right. Photo: Todd Swain ...
Alexander Blümel starting the 11th pitch of Baba Ji, Raldang Spire, Baspa Valley. Photo: Much Mayr On the first day of our 2018 trip to the Baspa Valley, Hansjörg Auer and I hiked to the base of Raldang’s big wall, and then planned to com...