September 12 started out on the wrong foot for a pair of experienced climbers and outdoor recreationalists. They had not climbed on this part of Mt. Temple and were “off route” nearly as soon as they shut the car door at 3 a.m.

Unfamiliar with the area, the two individuals hiked up the wrong access gully for their intended route on the east ridge of Mt. Temple (IV 5.7). Traveling by headlamp, the climbers associated certain terrain features with the route description and were baffled by others. Just above treeline, where the rock rises dramatically upward, fewer options become available. Still believing they were on the right route, the lead climber left the comfort of a good belay ledge and ascended a blocky corner system. At this point, they were roughly 100 meters to climber’s left of the actual line, venturing into terrain that likely had not been touched by human hands.

The leader had made some vertical progress before grabbing a block approximately one cubic foot in size with the right hand. The leader fully weighted the block, which gave way, spinning off its perch and crashing into the trees beneath them. As the rock dislodged, the lead climber fell back, spinning 360 degrees and making first contact with the rock with the right foot. The leader tumbled over the rocky ledges for several more meters, coming to rest on a small ledge below the belayer and just above a large cliff. The climber sustained a broken right ankle and various cuts and bruises.

The two climbers triggered the SOS on an inReach device and were able to contact Banff Dispatch to initiate a rescue. Both climbers were trained in first aid and were able to bandage and splint the injured ankle appropriately before the rescue team arrived.

ANALYSIS

The rescued party was well prepared with regard to first aid, communication, and overall mountain skill. However, the two climbers could have researched their route more thoroughly and scoped out the line in daylight to find the correct ridge-line feature. Once on the mountain, they could have taken more time to figure out where they were, using the route description, GPS, Google Earth, or similar resources. (They had cell service.) A little more time spent on research and planning may have prevented this accident. (Source: Banff, Yoho & Kootenay National Parks Visitor Safety Team.)