Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock – Crowded Climb California, Yosemite National Park, Tuolumne Meadows, Cathedral Peak

John and Chris (30-year-old males) were on their first climbing trip to Yosemite, and Cathedral was their first objective. They had climbed together frequently in the past, and had completed a three-day course in multi-pitch trad climbing in 2017....

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| Published 2019 | Author Yosemite National Park Climbing Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
Leader Fall Onto Ledge – Off-Route, Inadequate Protection California, Lake Tahoe Area, Sugarloaf

On August 3, I (female, 20) was leading Scheister, a three-pitch 5.7 trad route at Sugarloaf. On the third pitch, I climbed about 25 feet above the belay before realizing I had gone the wrong way. I had only placed one nut, clipped to the rope wit...

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| Published 2019 | Author Katarina Owens


Accident Reports ANAM
Leader Fall on Alpine Rock – Haste, Climber Out of Sight California, High Sierra, Incredible Hulk, Red Dihedral

On the morning of September 9, Dan (28) and Jon (30) started up the Red Dihedral route (12 pitches, 5.10) with a party of three climbers close behind. The leader of the first party, Dan, had nearly finished the second pitch when he slipped and fel...

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| Published 2019 | Author Dan and Jon


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall While Topping Out – No Spotter California, Tahoe, Eagle Falls, Lost in Space Boulders

On May 5, a boulderer (male, 32), fell while topping out an unnamed V4 near the south shore of Lake Tahoe. He fell about ten feet, landing awkwardly onto his pad. He was climbing with friends but had no spotter at the time. Upon landing, he sustai...

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| Published 2019 | Author Carolina Rodriguez


Accident Reports ANAM
Lead Fall onto Ledge – Protection Pulled Out California, Donner Summit, Black Wall

Late on July 12, two male climbers were attempting to complete the second pitch of Cannibal Gully, a 5.7 trad climb on the left portion of the Black Wall. This climb is popular for new leaders due to the grade, but the rock quality is considered l...

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| Published 2019 | Author Dave Fichter and Truckee Tahoe Regional Rescue Team


Accident Reports ANAM
Mt. Shasta Annual Summary California, Mt. Shasta and Castle Crags Wilderness

In 2019 there were 16 climbing-related incidents on Mt. Shasta. Twelve accidents were due to falls on ice or snow, and four climbers attempting the summit became lost. This is the second year of above-average rescues on Mt. Shasta, and one acciden...

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| Published 2019 | Author Mt. Shasta and Castle Crags Wilderness 2019 Report 2019 Report


Accident Reports ANAM
Ground Fall – Scrambling Toward Rappel Anchors Arizona, Mt. Lemmon Chimney Rock, Standard Route

At approximately 10:30 a.m. on April 12, my brother-in-law, Stephen Whittingham, and I (Chris, 30) were at the top of the Standard Route (5.7) on Chimney Rock, preparing to descend. The rappel anchor was on the far east end of the summit, out of r...

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| Published 2019 | Author Chris Czaplicki and Stephen Whittingham


Accident Reports ANAM
Ground Fall – Inexperience, Inadequate Belay Arizona, The Pit, Mall Wall

On October 28, Zachary Dreher (23) had just passed the last bolt on Bluto Tastes an Olive (5.10a sport) when he fell. His belayer (female, 22) lost control of the belay, and Zachary took a 38-foot ground fall. The belayer was using an ATC-style de...

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| Published 2019 | Author Zachary Dreher, Coconino County Sheriff's Office


Accident Reports ANAM
Rappel Error–Used Wrong Strand of Rope Arizona, Sycamore Canyon, Paradise Forks

On May 5, a climber (24) took a 20-foot ground fall after attempting a fixed-line rappel to the base of a cliff at Paradise Forks. While it is not known what knot or block was being used at the anchor, rescuers report the climber attached her rapp...

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| Published 2019 | Author Paul Clifton


Accident Reports ANAM
Rappel Anchor Failure Alaska, Juneau Icefield, Mendenhall Towers

Southeast buttress of Main Tower in the Mendenhall Towers. (1) Location of rappel anchor that failed. (2) Ledge where rappeller landed after anchor failure and eventually was rescued by helicopter. A party of three experienced climbers (male,...

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| Published 2019 | Author Climber 1


Accident Reports ANAM
High Altitude Pulmonary Edema Alaska, Denali, West Buttress

Late in the evening on June 22, a team of five climbers began calling for help over the radio. This team had ascended to the Football Field at 19,500 feet on the West Buttress when one of their teammates became ill. The sick climber, a 67-year-old...

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| Published 2019 | Author Denali Mountaineering Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
Lost on Glacial Approach Alaska, Alaska Range, Hidden Glacier

In mid-June, a team made up of a 30-year-old male and a 37-year-old male attempted to climb Denali’s West Buttress from Anchorage; they planned to run and hike to the mountain and then start climbing. Near the Hidden Glacier, south of the head of ...

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| Published 2019 | Author Denali Mountaineering Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall in Camp Alaska, Denali, West Buttress

On June 17, a guided 26-year-old female climber injured her right knee after slipping and falling on icy snow in the group’s kitchen tent. This climber had injured this knee previously, and an assessment by NPS medical providers confirmed her knee...

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| Published 2019 | Author Denali Mountaineering Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
High Altitude Cerebral Edema Alaska, Denali, West Buttress

On June 14, a 51-year-old male climber and his two climbing partners left late in the afternoon for a summit attempt from 17,200-foot camp. When one of the climbers began to exhibit signs of severe altitude sickness, the group decided to separate,...

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| Published 2019 | Author Denali Mountaineering Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
High Altitude Pulmonary Edema Alaska, Denali, West Buttress

On June 10, a 28-year-old female climber suffering from high altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE) was evacuated by air from 14,200-foot camp. NPS rangers assessed and treated this patient until the helicopter was able to transport her to definitive car...

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| Published 2019 | Author Denali Mountaineering Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
Exhaustion–Inexperience, Inadequate Supplies Alaska, Denali, West Buttress

On May 29, a 64-year-old male climber left high camp on the West Buttress for Denali’s summit, climbing solo and carrying no food, water, or shelter. During his descent, he was rescued by a guided party and NPS personnel after falling repeatedly o...

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| Published 2019 | Author Denali Mountaineering Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
Avalanche and Long Fall Alaska, Kahiltna Queen, West Face

On May 28, a 30-year-old male skier fell 700 meters after triggering an avalanche on Kahiltna Queen (a.k.a. Humble Peak). The patient and two companions (all very experienced ski mountaineers) had summited the 12,380-foot peak around noon by the w...

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| Published 2019 | Author Denali Mountaineering Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
Frostbite Alaska, Denali, Upper West Rib

On May 25, a solo 36-year-old male climber was treated for severe frostbite injuries to his fingers and hands. This climber ascended and descended the Upper West Rib climbing route over approximately 22 hours. Upon returning to 14,200-foot camp, h...

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| Published 2019 | Author Denali Mountaineering Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
Frostbite Alaska, Denali, Upper Wall

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| Published 2019 | Author Denali Mountaineering Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
Skiing Fall Alaska, Denali, West Buttress

On May 20, a 24-year-old male climber fell while skiing above 14,200-foot camp. The skier was assessed and treated for a suspected dislocated right hip by NPS rescuers and then transported in a rescue toboggan back to camp. After further assessmen...

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| Published 2019 | Author Denali Mountaineering Rangers