Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock – Loose Rock, Inadequate Protection Colorado, Eldorado Canyon, Redgarden Wall

On May 17, at approximately 7 p.m., two experienced climbers set out to climb Swanson Arête, a long 5.5, after doing several difficult single-pitch routes on Redgarden Wall. The plan was to simul-climb the route and descend the East Slabs of Redga...

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| Published 2019 | Author Climber 2


Accident Reports ANAM
Ground Fall – Protection Unclipped From Rope Colorado, Boulder Canyon, Animal World

On July 7, at approximately 2 p.m., my fiancé John Luebbers (34) and I (32) were attempting a tight dihedral called We Don’t Do Crack, a single-pitch 5.8 with a tricky start. I had placed one piece (number 0.5 C4 Camalot) about six to eight feet o...

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| Published 2019 | Author Meg Atteberry


Accident Reports ANAM
Fatal Fall From Cliff Top – Loose Rock Colorado, Boulder Canyon, Bell Buttress

In midmorning on August 24, a 50-year-old male climber fell approximately 120 feet from the top of Bell Buttress, causing fatal injuries. The man and his climbing partner had just completed the second pitch of Cosmosis (5.10a) and were searching f...

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| Published 2019 | Author Boulder County Sheriff's Office and online post from climber's partner


Accident Reports ANAM
Fatal Fall on Rock – Off-Route, Unable to Clip Bolt Colorado, Poudre Canyon, Eden Area

Fish and Whistle in Poudre Canyon, with the second and third bolt locations shown. The belay was on the bushy pedestal. Photo by Victor Pinto Mitch, Hunter, and I arrived at the Eden Area, a roadside crag, at around 2 p.m. on May 18. Mitch el...

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| Published 2019 | Author Eric Burrell


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock – Broken Hold, Protection Pulled Out Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Hallett Peak

My husband, Travis, and I were climbing the Culp-Bossier Route (8 pitches, 5.8+) on Hallett Peak on July 7. Five friends of ours were climbing adjacent routes. I’d done Pervertical Sanctuary (5.11a) on the Diamond of Longs Peak two days prior, and...

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| Published 2019 | Author Margie Root


Accident Reports ANAM
Ledge Fall – Inadequate Protection Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, North Chasm View Wall

Around midday on October 5, a male climber fell approximately 25 feet while leading Stoned Oven, a multi-pitch 5.11+ climb on North Chasm View Wall. The climber fell on easier terrain after completing an airy traverse on the sixth pitch of the asc...

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| Published 2019 | Author Tom Schaefer


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock – Protection Pulled Out, Loose Rock Colorado, Durango Area, Cascade Canyon

I was climbing with three friends in Cascade Canyon on Fourth of July weekend. Luke and Ben had climbed in the area before, but Will and I (female, 20) had not. Will and I chose a route called Funky Crack (5.8 trad) that was well within both of ou...

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| Published 2019 | Author Ella Hall


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded – Storm, Darkness, Inexperience Colorado, Sangre de Cristo Range, Crestone Needle, Elingwood Ledges

On Friday, June 21, two climbers from Kansas (ages 23 and 30) drove up to the east side of the Sangre de Cristo Range. Their goal was the Ellingwood Ledges (a.k.a. Ellingwood Arête) on the east side of Crestone Needle. The 2,000-foot route ends at...

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| Published 2019 | Author Dale Atkins


Accident Reports ANAM
Lead Fall on Rock — Pinned in Offwidth California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara, Invisible Wall

On February 23, I (male, 31) went climbing with a small group of friends at the Invisible Wall in Santa Barbara. We are new climbers (less than two years), but I had taken several classes and regularly practiced rope skills at home. Midway through...

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| Published 2019 | Author Tyler Johnson


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock — Inadequate Protection, No Helmet California, Tahquitz, West Face

On July 28, a male climber (25) was leading the route Fingertrip (5.7) and fell when he was about 45 feet up the first pitch. Nearby climbers, many with medical and rescue training, heard the fall and quickly arrived on scene. They noted that thre...

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| Published 2019 | Author Greg Davis


Accident Reports ANAM
Loose Rock California, High Sierra, Mt. Whitney, Mountaineer's Route

Late on August 24, a 27-year-old female was descending the Mountaineer’s Route on Mt. Whitney after summiting the peak. At about 13,900 feet, near the top of the big gully that characterizes much of this route, the climber dislodged a three-foot- ...

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| Published 2019 | Author Inyo County Search and Rescue


Accident Reports ANAM
Slip on Ice While Descending — Unable to Self-Arrest California, High Sierra, Mt. Sill, North Couloir

Two 23-year-old males were descending the L-shaped snow eld below Mt. Sill’s North Couloir in the late afternoon of October 20. Both were wearing helmets and crampons and using ice axes to descend extremely firm, sun-cupped, late-season snow. One ...

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| Published 2019 | Author Inyo County Search and Rescue


Accident Reports ANAM
Fatal Fall Caused By Rockfall – Off-Route California, High Sierra, Mt. Sill

On August 23, a party of four was attempting Mt. Sill in the Palisade Range via an unknown route (possibly the North Couloir). The climbers got off-route on the upper section and descended a short distance to reassess. At this point, a large block...

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| Published 2019 | Author Inyo County Search and Rescue


Accident Reports ANAM
Rappel Anchor Failure — Complacency, Fatigue California, Sierra Nevada, Evolution Ridge Traverse

On July 1, I (43) was climbing with three partners near the midpoint of the Evolution Ridge Traverse (VI 5.9). It was our third day on this long, multi-peak traverse. During a scrambling section that afternoon, I caught up with my partners as they...

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| Published 2019 | Author Sean Reedy


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded — Off Route, Inadequate Gear, Injured Rescuer California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Emerson, Southeast Face

In the late afternoon of September 15, hikers on the Piute Pass Trail reported that they heard calls for help and saw people waving their arms on the rugged southeast face of Mt. Emerson (13,204 feet). Two Inyo County Search and Rescue members wer...

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| Published 2019 | Author Inyo County Search and Rescue


Accident Reports ANAM
Rockfall Fatalities California, Sierra Nevada, Red Slate Mountain

On October 26, experienced climbers Jennifer Shedden (34) and Michelle Xue (22) approached Red Slate Mountain (13,156 feet), planning to climb its North Couloir. The route is a moderate snow couloir, approximately 1,500 feet high, that usually req...

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| Published 2019 | Author Mono County Sheriff's Office and Rock and Ice


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall On Rock California, Yosemite Valley, Sentinel Rock, Steck-Salathé Route

In the evening of October 18, Yosemite National Park dispatchers received a report of a fallen climber on the 13th pitch of the Steck-Salathé Route on Sentinel Rock, a prominent Yosemite Valley feature infamous for its demanding wide cracks and ar...

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| Published 2019 | Author Yosemite National Park Climbing Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
Lead Fall – Cam Pulled Out California, Yosemite Valley, Lower Falls Amphitheater

In late October, I completed a number of routes at Yosemite Falls with some friends. I decided to lead Guiding Light (5.10b trad), a dihedral about 80 feet long with a thinning crack and stemming on slick feet. The line culminates with a thin layb...

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| Published 2019 | Author Ryan Wood


Accident Reports ANAM
Long Leader Fall – Protection Failures, Fatigue California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Salathé Wall

In mid-June, Rylan Knuttgen and John Shields started up the Salathé Wall. Both were experienced climbers with four decades of trad climbing between them, including multiple big walls. They had been prepping for the Salathé Wall specifically for th...

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| Published 2019 | Author Yosemite National Park Climbing Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded – Stuck Rappel Rope California, Yosemite Valley, Royal Arches

On June 8, Chad and Ben started up Royal Arches (III 5.7 A0). Both were experienced climbers, with two years of trad experience around the 5.7/5.8 level. The team started climbing around 9 a.m., and they reached the final anchors at 8:45 p.m. They...

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| Published 2019 | Author Yosemite National Park Climbing Rangers