Tigray and Adwa regions, Nebelet, summary of new routes 2006–winter 2008. Ethiopia is a hardcore adventure-climbing destination where you have to take the rough with the smooth, and there can be more rough than smooth. The sandstone in southern Ti...
AVALANCHE, POOR POSITION, IGNORING HAZARDS TO OBTAIN OBJECTIVEBritish Columbia, Selkirk Mountains, Bruins PassOn March 17, 1993, Fritz B. (33), from Austria, and Herbert F. (50), from Germany, skied up Connaught Creek toward Bruins Pass after chec...
Gasherbrum I. An expedition of eight Canadians, led by Gilbert Rioux, climbed the Yugoslav route. On August 29, Pierre Bergeron and Dr. Christian Bernier reached the summit.
Kedar Dome. An Indian team climbed Kedar Dome (6831 meters, 22,410 feet) on June 2. Summiters were leader Sachin Karato, Sumanta Talukdar, Samir Krishna Das and Bujay Hazare. Another Indian expedition climbed the mountain when on September 29 Utta...
The Ascent of Rum Doodle. By W. E. Bowman. New York: Vanguard Press, 1957. 141 pages; ills. Price $2.95.This is the antidote for the indigestion that follows reading too many mountaineering books. It is the account of the conquest of the great Rum...
Kabru South. An Indian Army expedition led by Colonel H.S. Chaukan, former head of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute in Manali claims to have climbed Kabru South (7317 meters, 24,096 feet) for the first time. It is reported that 13 members re...
Cascade RangeAccident on Mt. Baker. Mr. Burge Bickford sent to Mr. Norman Bright the following information, which was forwarded to the American Alpine Club:Here are the facts regarding the Strathdee case as far as we know. Larry and Jack Schwablan...
Auyuittuq National Park, Gauntlet Peak. It was reported that the Italian team of Mario Manica, Danny Zampiccoli and Giorgio Nicolodi climbed a new route, Momenti Magici (475 meters, 5.1 le A3+), on Gauntlet Peak in Auyuittuq National Park. The tri...
Quebrada de Rurec, Via Monttrek. It was reported that Spanish climbers Eloi Callado and César Pedrocchi established what was perhaps the first wall route in the canyon of the Quebrada de Rurec in the summer of 1997. Over 13 days, the two climbers ...
Quilindaña, North Face. Quilindaña (4877 meters, 16,002 feet) located in the Cordillera Oriental of Ecuador, is usually referred to as the Matterhorn of this country because of its appearance as a rock tower. In October 1975, a French-Ecuadorian g...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Symmetry Spire. On July 16, John Adams (18) and Marshall Conway (19) had registered for a climb on the Durrance Ridge but after they started they decided to do their climbing in an area considerably to the east ...
Changabang, North Face, Attempt. Our expedition, comprising Julie-Ann Clyma, Brendan Murphy, Roger Payne and Andy Perkins, made the first attempt on the north face of Changabang (6864 m) in May and June. After arriving in New Delhi on May 13, the ...
Climbing in the Magic Islands: A Climbing and Hiking Guide to the Lofoten Islands of Norway. Ed Webster. Nord Norsk Klatreskole, Henningsvaer, Norway. Maps, black-and-white photos. Softcover. 320 pages.Comment: This is the fruit of Ed Webster’s fo...
Aconcagua, General Overview. The tallest peak in the Western Hemisphere had a tough season. The normal routes up the 22,832-foot peak are non-technical, and easy access to high altitude has proved increasingly deadly in recent years as more people...
Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) Attempt, 1984. An expedition led by Frenchman Pierre Mazeaud had among its members L. Berardini, L. Brandler and F. Hess. They attempted to climb Gasherbrum I by the 1958 American first-ascent route but failed at 7200 me...
Mill Creek Canyon, Bitterroot Range. The Bitterroots extend south from the Missoula area and are punctuated by glacier-carved granite canyons whose creeks drain east to the Bitterroot valley. There is little evidence of climbing and the canyons se...
Standing Rock, Monument Basin, Canyonlands. The big news in Canyon- lands in 1993 was Keith Reynolds’s and Walt Shipley’s free ascent of Standing Rock. Although the tower was first climbed in 1962 by Layton Kor, Huntley Ingalls and Steve Komito, i...
ANCHOR FAILURE WHILE LOWERING OFFAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade MountainDuring a climb of Mother’s Day (5.6) in April, 1990, the leader placed a Friend and used it to lower back down. This anchor pulled out and he fell about three meters to a l...
Traverse of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta; Pico Simmons. Tom Simpson and I entered the range from above Ciénaga Magdalena (San Pedro de la Sierra), went into the paramo by Cuchilla Cimarona, and continued along the western spine of the Viscungu...
Makalu Post-Monsoon Attempts. Four expeditions attempted unsuccessfully to climb Makalu (8463 meters, 27,766 feet). Six Australians and a New Zealander led by Ian Collins tried to ascend the west buttress and reached 6800 meters on October 1. They...