Accident Reports ANAM
Ground Fall – Failed to Clip Second Bolt Virginia, Hidden Valley

On April 6, a climber (age 22) was leading the sport route Axis Bold as Butta (5.11a) at Hidden Valley, a crag near Abingdon. She had led the route several times previously. The first bolt, 11 feet off the ground, was stick-clipped. There is a goo...

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| Published 2019 | Author Jeff Sanders


Accident Reports ANAM
Leader Fall – Off Route, Loose Hold Utah, Southeast Utah, Castle Valley, Sister Superior

On November 14, my brother David (32) and I (29) set out to climb Jah Man (5 pitches, 5.10c) on Sister Superior. In the days leading up to the climb, we had read route descriptions and the most recent trip reports. As we racked up, I picked out fe...

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| Published 2019 | Author Whitney Kiker


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded – Unable to Find Rappel in Darkness Utah, Wasatch Range, Little Cottonwood Canyon, Gate Buttress Area

Salt Lake County Search and Rescue (SLCOSAR) was called out October 12 around 9:15 p.m. to assist three experienced out-of-town climbers who were unfamiliar with the area (one male and two females). The trio had climbed a long traditional route kn...

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| Published 2019 | Author Salt Lake County Search and Rescue and The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
LEDGE FALL ON ROCK – Inadequate Protection Utah, Wasatch Range, Little Cottonwood Canyon, Pentapitch Area

Two 26-year-old males were involved in a rock climbing accident on the morning of July 12, while attempting a variation to the right of the second lead on Pentapitch. According to the belayer (climber A), he had led the first pitch of Pentapitch a...

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| Published 2019 | Author Climber A and The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
Slide on Snow – Inadequate Equipment Utah, Wasatch Range, Mt. Olympus, West Slabs

On June 9, Salt Lake County Search and Rescue (SLCOSAR) assisted an injured climber who had fallen while descending Mt. Olympus. A team of three climbers, including the 27-year-old female, had descended from the West Slabs route, a long, moderate ...

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| Published 2019 | Author Salt Lake County Search and Rescue and The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
Lowering Error – Off-Route, Rope Too Short, No stopper Utah, Ogden, The school Room, Sunday Wall Crag

A group of three moderately experienced climbers—two males and one female (Sam, 23; Jared, 18; and Rylee, 27)— headed to the School Room early on August 15. Rylee and Sam had just finished their Single Pitch Instructor (SPI) courses a day earlier....

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| Published 2019 | Author Sam, Jared and The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
Rappel Error – Uneven Ropes,Stopper Knot Untied Texas, Enchanted Rock State Park

On October 12, I (age 25) was in a team of five guides setting top-rope anchors for a base-managed site. Three guides left to hike in with our clients while another guide and I finished setting anchors and dropping ropes. We then needed to rappel ...

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| Published 2019 | Author Tuesday Kahl and The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
Leader Ground Fall – Unable to Clip, Inexperience Texas, Reimer's Ranch, Hand Beyond Wall

On May 26, I was climbing with a less experienced partner at Reimer’s Ranch, an area unfamiliar to both of us. After comfortably completing a 5.10 route, I gave my partner (male, 33) the option of leading or top-roping the adjacent route Monkey Bo...

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| Published 2019 | Author The Belayer and The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall From Anchor – Incorrectly Tied Knot Tennessee, The Obed, Lilly Bluff

On October 3, Rachel Zoeller (35) and her climbing partner were at Lilly Bluff in the Obed. Rachel had been climbing intermittently since 2007 , but it had been over a year since she climbed outside, so she and her partner reviewed the process for...

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| Published 2019 | Author Rachel Zoeller, the National Park Service and the Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
Smith Rocks Summary Oregon, Smith Rocks State Park

On August 24, at approximately 9:40 a.m., Chaitanya Sathe (35), a well-known and admired member of the Mazamas, suffered a fatal fall of approximately 100 feet while descending 3rd- or 4th-class terrain into the Lower Gorge. A number of accidents ...

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| Published 2019 | Author Deschutes County SAR


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Ice – Inexperience Oregon, Mt. Hood, South Side

While descending from the summit on December 30, a 16-year-old unroped climber slipped at the Pearly Gates and fell approximately 500 feet into the Devil’s Kitchen area. The slide resulted in a femur fracture and a cracked helmet. The injured clim...

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| Published 2019 | Author Jeff Scheetz and Pearce Bessinger, Portland Mountain Rescue


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Ice – Inexperience, Climbing Alone Oregon, Mt. Hood, South Side

On May 5, an inexperienced 39-year-old solo climber slipped while traversing a summit route, falling several hundred feet into a fumarole in the Hot Rocks area. With the assistance of another climber who witnessed the fall, he extracted himself, b...

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| Published 2019 | Author Jeff Scheetz and Pearce Bessinger, Portland Mountain Rescue


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock – Inexperience, Inadequate Preparation North Carolina, Linville Gorge Wilderness Area, The Amphitheater

On October 5, an organized college group divided into two parties to expedite climbing the Daddy (500 feet, 5.6). The first group (A) summited and then hiked out to the parking area. Prior to starting, the groups had agreed that if the second grou...

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| Published 2019 | Author James Robinson, Corey Winstead and Adrian Hurst, Burke County SAR


Accident Reports ANAM
Fatal Fall – Free Soloing North Carolina, Linville Gorge Wilderness Area, Shortoff Mountain

On June 30, Austin Howell (31) met climber/photographer Ben Wu at the Shortoff Mountain trailhead. Their plan was for Howell to free solo a few routes on Shortoff and have Wu photograph him. Reaching the climbing area, Ben photographed Austin on T...

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| Published 2019 | Author Facebook Posts by Susan Hall, Corey Winstead and James Robinson of Burke County Rescue Squad, and Ben Wu


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock – Rope Behind Leg, No Helmet North Carolina, Pilot Mountain State Park, The Parking Lot

During the afternoon of May 6, ranger J. Anderson received a call reporting a fallen climber. When Anderson found the patient, Matthew Starkey, he was walking out, holding a shirt on the right side of his head and covered in blood. However, he was...

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| Published 2019 | Author Incident Report from Pilot Mountain State Park and The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
Bouldering Fall – Dislocated Ankle on Pad North Carolina, Rumbling Bald

On March 28, Noah Cleveland (20), Ben Rader (19), Carson Yates (19), and I (22) went to Rumbling Bald to boulder. Ben and I were familiar with the area, and our plan was to introduce Noah and Carson to bouldering outdoors, so we focused on moderat...

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| Published 2019 | Author Anna Marie Alewine


Accident Reports ANAM
Rappel Error – Inadequate Equipment, Removed Backup North Carolina, Pisgah National Forest, Looking Glass Rock, South Side

Jed (42) and I (28) climbed frequently at Looking Glass Rock, specifically the South Side area. On February 2, a sunny, bluebird day, we had planned to get on a different route and carried only one 60-meter rope with us. However, when we passed Di...

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| Published 2019 | Author Amanda Ellis


Feature Article ANAM
Ice Climbing and Avalanches It's Time for Climbers to Take this Risk More Seriously

An avalanche thunders down the clasic Polar Circus ice route in the Canadian Rockies. Photo by Max Durrah Every winter, ice climbers are caught and sometimes killed by avalanches. Even small avalanches can be deadly when they get funneled int...

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| Published 2020 | Author Grant Statham


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
The Great Northern Prow Guyana, Mt. Roraima

“Der be somtin’ in me boot, man,” shouted Troy Henry in Caribbean-English creole—his primary tongue as a native Guyanan. “It gone bit me!” Troy had just arrived on Tarantula Terrace, a vegetated ledge the size of a dinner table, three rope length...

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| Published 2019 | Author Leo Houlding, U.K.


Accident Reports ANAM
Shawangunks Annual Summary New York, Mohonk Preserve

In 2019 there were 22 reported climbing-related accidents on the Mohonk Preserve. Injuries sustained during these accidents included: three head injuries, one fractured jaw, one spinal fracture, one pelvis fracture, two long bone fractures, and a ...

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| Published 2019 | Author Andrew Bajardi, Chief Ranger, Mohonk Preserve