Siguniang North, North Face, Attempt
China, Sichuan, Qionglai Shan, Siguniang National Park
He Lang and Liu Yang attempted the north face of Siguniang North (Yangangzi, 5,900m) in August 2020, planning to traverse the summit and continue up the north ridge of Siguniang (6,250m). They began their ascent on August 20, and by the end of the day were bivouacked at 5,540m on a 50cm-wide ledge. Next day, they gained another 200m, finishing the rock section and beginning to climb the final snow slope. At a point about 150m below the summit, they started to dig in for a second bivouac. However, they soon discovered half a meter of fresh snow on top of a 10cm layer of graupel. Given the obvious avalanche danger on the slope above, they immediately retreated to their first bivouac and the next day descended to base camp.
The only known prior attempt on this side of the peak was made in 2004 by U.K. climbers Dave Hollinger and Andy Sharpe, who attempted the northeast ridge—the left edge of the north face—but gave up after climbing 200m of this 500m line due to bad weather. The summit of Siguniang North may only have been reached once, via the southwest face (WI4+ M4), by Philippe Batoux’s French team in 2006.
A few days before He and Liu’s August 2020 attempt, Chen Hui tried to solo the the north ridge of Siguniang (Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden's descent route after climbing The Inside Line in 2002). Access to the north ridge is by climbing the complex ice slope between Siguniang and Siguniang North (ascended by Batoux in 2006). The Chinese climber made his first bivouac at around 5,200m, and the following day rope-soloed three pitches that contained sections of 5.8 M5 60–70°. He was then able to climb unroped to a bivouac at 5,384m. It snowed all night, continuously pushing him off the ledge. With no possibility of drying his very wet gear, he descended next morning.
— Xia Zhongming, Germany