Lower Doublet, Montana Hardman Route
United States, Montana, Beartooth Mountains, East Rosebud Canyon
If you claim a first ascent in the Beartooths, chances are that some “Montana Hardman” already climbed the route decades ago. Nobody knows who was first because the local ethic of not reporting climbs ensures the exploits of the past are lost in obscurity. The hardmen themselves cannot be trusted. They are either too humble to report their deeds, can’t resist sandbagging the next generation, or honestly can’t remember the details anymore. Select Alpine Climbs to Montana is full of false claims of would-be firsts. The Climbers Guide to Montana describes entire big walls like the Doublet in one sentence: "This is 5.7 to 5.9, with aid, two days needed, bivy cave halfway."
On our May 2021 ascent of Lower Doublet, Karen Kovaka, Wade Spiner, and I did indeed find evidence of the elusive Montana Hardman at a bivy ledge: old rope and a water bottle. It is not clear if they ventured higher, as we didn't find the telltale rusty piton often left on the last hard pitch to say, “I was here.” Who knows, maybe it’s displayed on a fireplace somewhere, like all the ones I’ve found from other Beartooth climbs. Our line, the Montana Hardman Route (1,600’, 16 pitches, V 5.12 [5.9 R, 5.11 obl.]), climbs the prominent buttress to the left of Line of Constant Sorrow (AAJ 2014). When the lines intersect on the upper portion, it is recommended to climb Line of Constant Sorrow to the top.
— Michael Abbey, USA