Au Royaume du Mont-Blanc, by Paul Payot. 305 pages, with 97 illustrations. Bonneville (Haute-Savoie): Imprimerie Plancher, 1950.A year ago, we reviewed the modest text written by Paul Payot to accompany the splendid photographs by G. Tairraz in Ch...
The Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, ColombiaWalter A. Wood, Jr.Have you ever of a winter’s evening reached up on your library shelf for your favorite atlas, settled down comfortably in a favorite chair and commenced thumbing over the pages with a v...
FALL ON ROCK-RAPPEL ANCHOR FAILURECalifornia, High Sierra, Palisades RegionOn May 29, Dan Kipper (54) and Warren Buettner (65) started from Glacier Camp and ascended the Palisade Glacier to the V-Notch. Their objective was to climb the V-notch, as...
Polish, Soviet and Czech Climbs, Pamir. Polish climbers, Janusz Maczka, Tadeusz Preyzner, Jerzy Zajac and Bogdan Strzelski, climbed a new 7250-foot route from July 29 to August 2 on the east face of Ljap-Nazar, which took four bivouacs, two of the...
Beauty is a Rare ThingThe birth of a new route on the northwest face of Denali's west buttress, by Steve HouseIt was under the cover of an Alaskan midnight that Eli and I hurried across the crusty snow of the Peters Glacier to the Father and Son’s...
Iztaccihuatl, El Orgasmo del Cerdo and Oz. El Orgasmo del Cerdo is more than 700 meters high, but only 300 meters are technical, with 200 meters of scrambling and occasional 20- meter fourth-class steps. It rises from the west glacier and was open...
California, North Palisades. During the middle part of March Alan Leeds (21), Wayne Inman (20), and a third man spent several days camping and hiking in the area of Glacier Lodge. On March 20th the third man left to go skiing, and on Thursday the ...
Ama Dablam Attempt and Tragedy. Until April 8, everything was going perfectly. All six members, American Tom Dickey and Canadians Geoff Pow- ter, Peter Roxburgh, Charlie Eckenfelder, Rory McIntosh and I, were fit and well in Camp II atop the Red T...
STRANDED-ROPES STUCK IN CRACK, INADEQUATE CLOTHING, EQUIPMENT AND FOOD, FATIGUECalifornia, Yosemite National Park, Fairview DomeAt 2048 on August 13, Matt Ciancio was solo climbing the regular route on Fairview Dome when he heard cries for help. C...
The Gran Sabana holds some of the world’s most majestic big walls, rising dramatically above rainforest. In February 2012 Cory Nauman, Alfredo Zubillaga, and I flew to the region to establish a new route on Upigma Tepui in the Canaima National Par...
First Ascent of Mt. Sangai, EcuadorMt. Sangai in Ecuador is an active volcano, which for many decades has borne the reputation of being one of the most violent in the world. Detached from the main chain of the Andes, it juts out into the Amazon ba...
Deep Play, A Climbers Odyssey from Llanberis to the Big Walls. Paul Pritchard. Seattle: The Mountaineers, 1997. 16-page color insert. 192 pages. $22.95.Stories of a Young Climber: An Autobiography. Pat Ament. Two Lights: Boulder, 1996. 262 pages. ...
Dhaulagiri Attempt. A North and South Tirolean expedition led by Wolfgang Nairz had hoped to climb Dhaulagiri by the standard northeast-ridge route. Reinhold Messner and another then wanted to descend the northwest ridge or the north face to compl...
South Ridge of Nez Perce, July 3, 1954. Bob Merriam, Bill Buckingham, and Ed Clark made their approach from Garnet Canyon up through the col between Nez Perce and Shadow Peak. Once the ridge was reached, it was followed straight to the summit.
Summary. Cochamó’s highest number of both international and Chilean climbers visited the area this season, and the number of new routes surpassed the last few combined. The spectrum grew to include not only big walls, short multi-pitch cracks, and...
FALLING ROCK AND SLIP ON SNOW-UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST DUE TO INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT AND INEXPERIENCEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Middle Teton and Disappointment PeakOn July 28th, rangers made two rescues of injured parties—one from...
Competition Climbing in the C.I.S.The only plastic is in the bootsby Vladimir Shataevtranslated by Sergei NekhaiThere are rumors among older mountaineers that competitive mountaineering in Russia will soon die. At first glance this seems to be tru...
The Mountaineers. The Climbing Committee experienced a lively and active season with reviews of climbing methods, policies, etc. The Committee was composed almost entirely of veteran climbers whose experience contributed significantly to the climb...
West Komorova Glacier, new routes. During the month of July, Scott Decapio (USA) and I (Canada) traveled to Kyrgyzstan and climbed in the remote, military-restricted West Kokshaal Too range in the Tien Shan Mountains on the border with China. I ha...
Dynamic Posture in the MountainsBeckett Howorth, M.D.1WALKING and climbing are simple, primitive motions common to all of us and to many animals. Walking is usually taken for granted, as we have walked since infancy, but it is often done poorly. C...