The alarm clock sounds and our small troop prepares for the big day. The atmospheric pressure was high and we hoped that the beautiful March weather had returned. We departed at 4 a.m. and quickly swallowed the approach. We were light as all the g...
On September 5 Antonin Borovka, Josef Krena, and I climbed the south face of Pik Mayakovsky (Qullai Mayakovskiy), a mountain in the southwest corner of the Tajikistan Pamir, where the north-south Ishkashim Range joins the east-west Shakhdara Range...
Moments of Doubt and Other Mountaineering Writings. David Roberts. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1986. 237 pages. $13.95.In the nearly twenty years since the publication of his first book, The Mountain of My Fear, David Roberts has become one of our ...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, NO HARD HAT, TOO MUCH WEIGHT IN PACKWashington, Mount StewartOn August 4, 1991, Brian Blair (27), Paul Werner (25), Brad Berdoy (32) and I (Bert Daniels, 50+) climbed the North Ridge of Mount Stewart. During the...
HENRY W. KENDALL 1926-1999Henry Kendall died during an underwater photography dive at Wakulla Springs, FL, on February 15. He suffered gastrointestinal bleeding as reported in some news stories, but other factors caused him to lose consciousness a...
Logical ProgressionSometimes the best rock and traditional bolting ethics follow different lines. What’s an enterprising climber to do? Going down on El Gigante.Luke LaeserThe original intention of Peter Baumeister, Dierk Sittner, and myself on ou...
Touching the Void. Joe Simpson. Harper & Row, New York; Jonathan Cape, London, 1988. 174 pages, black and white and color photographs, route diagrams, glossary (US edition). $17.95.Since there is so much to praise in this book, which won the 1...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PROBABLY PULLED California, Yosemite Valley, Higher Cathedral RockOn September 29,1993, about 1100, Rui Ferreira walked into the Valley District office and reported his climbing partner, Gustavo Brillembourg (35) had falle...
FALL ON SNOW—SKI MOUNTAINEERING, AMS, WEATHER—EXTREME WINDS Alaska, Mount Foraker, Sultana RidgeOn June 10, at 2230 Julie Faure (33), Jim Hopkins (31), John Montecucco (29), and Tyson Bradley (29) started up the Sultana Ridge on Mount Foraker (17,...
WILLIAM FARNSWORTH LOOMIS 1914-1973Dr. William Farnsworth Loomis—“Farnie”—was not an outstanding mountaineer, but his life was varied and rich and—like the subject of E. A. Robinson’s poem—he “fluttered pulses when he walked.” After a successful c...
The AlpsA glance at modern alpine styleClaude Gardien, France translated by Eliza Moran with special thanks to Mark TwightThe Alps are, without a doubt, the most used, most often visited mountains in the world. They might even appear too well know...
Commuters on Chiquito DomeThomas HigginsMY ENJOYMENT OF CLIMBING begins long before the climb. I tingle as I think about Chiquito Dome. While I scamper around the little bouldering outcrop, Indian Rock in Berkeley, I imagine climbing the golden su...
Sepu KangriCompleting a dream, two climbers finally reach the summit of the secret mountain” of East Tihet.Carlos BuhlerTo begin with it was a dream: a season, a place, a mountain, and a team. We were lucky climbers: those whose privilege it would...
Bollinger Peak, Southwest Face. In August, Matt Parramore and I made a new route on the southwest side of Bollinger Peak, facing Shadow Lake. It is a couple of hundred feet to the left of the West Face Route (which is on the most prominent feature...
Cordillera Real, Various Ascents. It was reported that in September, 1995, the French team of Michèle Vegezzi, J.P. Boulangié and Yves Astier climbed Cerro Khunu (5458 m) via a large 300- meter couloir on the southeast face, encountering ice and m...
Picture Maker of the Old West: William H. Jackson, by Clarence S. Jackson. 303 pages, with 393 illustrations. New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1947. $7.50.Anyone with an eye for pictures and a love of the great open spaces should enjoy this book...
El Tronador, Pico Internacional, Northeast Face. On January 13 Alberto Bendinguer, Marcelo and Gabriel Aguilar, Petra Friedrich, Marcelo Pérez, Argentines, and I made the second ascent of the northeast face of the highest summit, the Pico Internac...
Mt. Huntington, Golden Granite West Face, New Route. Mentally noted in the summer of 1996, this route would take two tries to complete. A beautiful seam travels from the highest tongue of the glacial cirque of the Tokositna to the prominent tower ...
STRANDED—LOST, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENTWashington, Mount Rainier, Disappointment CleaverEarly on the morning of September 1, the two-person Connell party called Mount Rainier communications by cell phone to report that they had lost the c...
Michel-Gabriel Paccard under der Montblanc, by Carl Egger. 8vo., 100 pages, with illustrations. Basel: Gaiser and Haldemann, 1943. $2.50.The author is an artist, whose books on the aiguilles of Mont Blanc and the Caucasus are well known. The prese...