Mount Vigil, Southwest Face. Mount Vigil is one of a group of granite monoliths which form the southern-most extension of the Pikes Peak massive, southwest of Colorado Springs. Located in a heavily climbed area, the southwest face had remained unc...
Mt. Barlow, 10,320 ft. First ascent, July 9. E. Cromwell, j. M. Thorington, P. Kaufmann. From camp on Niverville meadow by way of Freshfield basin to col between Mts. Helmer and Barlow. The lower west peak was skirted on its south slope as the hig...
Condoriri East Peak, Illampu West Face, and Climbs in the Apolobamba. The 1997 University of Edinburgh Apolobamba Expedition comprised Tom Bridgeland, Sam Chinnery, Rob Goodier, Jane McKay, Heather Smith and me. We spent July and August climbing i...
Four Against Everest by Woodrow Wilson Sayre. Englewood Cliff, N. J.;Prentice-Hall, 1964. 259 pages. Illustrations. Price $5.95. Who in his boyhood has not dreamed of attempting some great exploit? And if the exploit also involves a great prank, w...
Joseph Nicholi Puryear, 1973-2010On October 27, 2010, while unroped on a ridgecrest low on unclimbed Labuche Kang in Tibet, Joe Puryear broke through a cornice and fell 700 feet to the glacier below. Joe was one of the authentic talents of the Ame...
Aconcagua, Permission Problems. I have much to say about Aconcagua, not so much about the mountain as on the official authorization to get there. I hope that one day such an approach to mountain climbing will be simplified. A number of Americans w...
Mount Jupiter Cliffs. Daylight was just breaking in the east on July 19 when Gary Tate and I left the car for a 25-minute hike from the end of the Duckabush Road for a third attempt on the Mount Jupiter Cliffs. They are located on the southwest si...
Rondoy, Cordillera Huayhuash. Tragedy struck the London School of Economics Expedition during the descent of six of its members from the first ascent of Rondoy (19,303 feet) when Peter C. Bebbington, leader, and Graham Sadler fell to their deaths....
Makalu, West Face. A Polish-Brazilian expedition climbed the 8000-foot- high virgin west face of Makalu. Since Wojciech Kurtyka and Alex MacIntyre had twice attempted it, all eyes have been on this face. The team, led by Adam Bilczewski, consisted...
An American Reascends Mont Blanc(George W. Heard, Jr., 1857)The story of the author’s ascent of Mont Blanc in 1855 having already been presented in these pages (A. A. J.,iii, 172), we now print for the first time the account of his second ascent t...
Henry Bradford Washburn, Jr. 1910-2007On January 10, 2007 we lost a visionary, a world-class mountaineer and explorer, a scientist and teacher, and perhaps the most prolific mountain photographer of all time when Brad Washburn passed away at the a...
I’d been eyeballing this line on the 1,500' north face of Mt. Langley for a year, since I noticed that Rest and Be Thankful, the north arête route put up by Alois Smrz and Miguel Carmona 10 years ago, was the only route on the face. It felt ...
Into the Wild. Jon Krakauer. Villard, New York, 1996. 224 pages. $22.00.Into the Wild, belongs to that small handful of books to receive both a full page review in the New York Times Book Review and a review in the pages of the American Alpine Jou...
Mt. Marcus Baker, attempt via Pi Ridge. In a Whittier, Alaska, warehouse of dry-docked boats we studied maps and photos of College Fjord. Rain drummed on the metal roof, and our breath spilled out in plumes of fog. Mik Shain and I were planning a ...
Tetons, Wyoming: (4) Teewinot. Early on 7 August 1948 Dean and Lawrence Worth left Lupine Meadows to climb Teewinot. They had a good out-of-doors background, but little “alpine” experience. They had done a little work with the ice-axe on practice ...
YearNumber of Accidents Reported USA-CANTotal Number of Persons Involved USA-CANInjuredUSA-CANKilledUSA-CAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942— 256— 231— 019— 2196047— 464— 1237— 819—...
O. C. Marsh, Pioneer in Paleontology, by Charles Schuchert and Clara M. LeVene. 8 vo., 541 pages, with illustrations. NewHaven: Yale University Press, 1940. Price $5.00.Every Yale man who ever studied geology in the old Peabody Museum knows the na...
Peaks in the Southwest Pacific. In 1977 I climbed 41 peaks in 15 countries in the Pacific. After walking across New Guinea on the 94- kilometer Kokoda Trail, I headed for the highlands, where I soloed three peaks: Mount Hagen (3778 meters or 12,39...
American Alpine Club Research FundThe American Alpine Club Research Fund was established in 1945 to promote scientific, literary, educational or historical research and publication related to mountaineering, geology or geography. The trustees of t...
Mt. Burkett, South Face, solo. After waiting in town for three weeks of unsettled spring weather, Leo Smith (Paines Ford, New Zealand) and I (Petersburg, Alaska) flew via helicopter on April 23 to the Baird Glacier below the southwest face of Mt. ...