Jack Mountain, East Ridge. On a weekend excursion to Jack Mountain, my brother Carl and I climbed this route. From a high camp below the southeast ridge, a traverse was made across the east glacier to gain the ridge. The climb offered a straightfo...
Portillo and Pangal districts. Among the more important activities for the 1969-1970 local season (December through March) are the following climbs. The rock peak of Caracoles (4510 meters, 14,797 feet), located near the ski resort of Portillo, wa...
Broad Peak, Alpine Style. After two weeks of completing formalities in Rawalpindi, on May 15 Georges Bettembourg and I, accompanied by Gilles Sourice, movie photographer, and Dr. Jean Fauchard, left Skardu. It took us twelve days to reach Base Cam...
Nepalese Himalaya, Various Activity in the Post-Monsoon Season. On Ama Dablam, 72 climbers from all but one of 12 teams summitted via the same narrow southwest ridge; there were so many people on the ridge that they had to pitch their tents at odd...
Mount Russell, Sbruno-Sbruski Route. In August, Scott Ayers and I climbed a six-pitch crack system on the south face, to the right of the south buttress. (III, 5.10.) (Editor’s note—This route and the preceding one are undoubtedly very close to on...
Mount Blackburn, Wrangell Mountains. There were two expeditions on Mount Blackburn (16,523 feet). The Mountaineering Association of Daito City was composed of Tadanobu Yokoyama, leader, Toshiyuki Shinto and four others. From Base Camp at 7700 feet...
Peak 11,520', The Flame. After a brief reconnaissance up the Northwest Fork of the Tokositna and a week of bad weather, on May 6 Seth Hobby and I cast off onto what we believe is a new route on the north face of Peak 11,520', one of two peaks alon...
Mulkila IV and Koa Rong I, Lahul, 1979. A (British) Royal Air Force and Indian Air Force expedition led by Wing Commander N.W. Ridley climbed Mulkila IV (21,380 feet, 6517 meters) and Koa Rong I (20,201 feet, 6157 meters) in September 1979. There ...
Valhalla Range, Southern Selkirks. The Kootenay Mountaineering Club established a climbing camp at Mulvey Meadows (6600 feet) from August 1 to 8. Dunnage, food and prefabricated hut sections were flown in from Slocan by helicopter. We erected the ...
Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park. On 14 June, Jay DuPont (15) was climbing with two companions. He separated himself from the party. He had expressed a desire to slide down a rock face because he felt it would be fun and easier. The face was...
UNITED STATESFROSTBITE, DEHYDRATION, DAMP MITTENSAlaska, Iliamna VolcanoOn February 9,1985, Ken Zafron, George Rooney, Willie Hersman (34), and Rudi Bertschi (38) flew to the Tuxedni Glacier. They hoped to make the first winter ascent of Iliamna V...
AMSAlaska, Denali National Park, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn the evening of June 6, the Russian Denali Expedition requested the assistance of the NPS volunteer doctor at the 17,200-foot camp on the West Buttress of Mount McKinley because one m...
Broad Peak Attempt. Our expedition was led by Dr. Franz Berghold and composed of Günther Knauseder, Horst Schindlbacher, Peter and Wastl Wörgötter and me. We had the usual approach problems, such as porter strikes, lost baggage and swept-away brid...
Field Book: The Absaroka Range, Yellowstone Park by Orrin H. Bonney and Lorraine Bonney. Denver: Sage Books, 1963. 302 pages, ills., maps, supplement. Price $2.00.This Field Book employs the same layout found in the Field Book to the Teton Range b...
Kun. Our expedition made the difficult crossing of the Suru river on August 16. Fortunately we had a small pneumatic boat. We climbed the northeast ridge, the normal route. We placed Base Camp at 14,750 feet on the 18th, Camp I at 17,725 feet on t...
Kangchenjunga, Solo. I reached the top of Kangchenjunga solo without supplementary oxygen on October 18 after 33 days on the mountain. I shared the route to Camp I at 20,400 feet on the “Hump” with Polish and French expeditions, both climbing Yalu...
Montagne di Groenlandia, by Mario Fantin. Bologna: Tamari Editori, 1969. 374 pages, 280 photographs, 39 sketches and maps.Lovers of the Arctic mountain world will be happy to see this volume, the first actual book on the mountains of Greenland. Th...
Peaks above Chhutidum Glacier. Germans from Hannover and Hammeln, Peter Geihs, leader, Detlef and Hartmut Ahlbrecht and Tilman Spohr, ascended the Ushnu valley to the confluence of the Kotgaz and Chhutidum glaciers where Base Camp was established ...
Polish-Austrian Everest Attempt. Poles Tadeusz Karolczak and Aleksander Lwow and Austrian Helmut Putz originally wanted to climb the south pillar of Everest, but the Japanese set unacceptable conditions for making the Khumbu Icefall accessible to ...
Cordillera Central. The Frenchman D. Eichenbugeno and Manuel Bazán and Raúl Riesco, both from Santiago, entered the Barros Negros group of rock peaks located north of the mining village of Pérez Caldera in December 1971. From a base camp at 11,000...