Peaks above Chhutidum Glacier. Germans from Hannover and Hammeln, Peter Geihs, leader, Detlef and Hartmut Ahlbrecht and Tilman Spohr, ascended the Ushnu valley to the confluence of the Kotgaz and Chhutidum glaciers where Base Camp was established at 17,800 feet. After an attempt on P 5681 (18,638 feet), northwest of the main Chhutidum Glacier, which failed for lack of acclimatization, Chhutidum Zom (21,015 feet) was climbed by all after a three-day attack up the south face. This peak lies southwest of Lunkho West. Since the Japanese had climbed Lunkho East (22,545 feet), they attacked Lunkho West (22,535 feet). They hoped to reach the ridge that connects the two peaks by the difficult 45° south face, but the attempt had to be given up when a climber fell into a crevasse and had to be evacuated.

Adolf Diemberger, Österreichischer Alpenklub