Rurec, Caravaca Jubilar. After installing base camp in mid-July 2003 below Rurec (5,080m) and fixing the initial pitches, we began our first capsule-style attempt carrying food, water, and gear for three weeks. The team: Alfonso Cerdan Sandoval, m...
Thalay Sagar, High Tension. Russian alpinists Alexander Klenov, Alexey Bolotov, Mikhail Davy and Mikhail Pershin established a new route on the north face of Thalay Sagar (6904m). High Tension (ABO, 7b A3+, 1400m) takes a line up the rock buttress...
Potomac Appalachian Trail Club. The Mountaineering Section had one of its most active seasons in 1969. We had scheduled climbing trips every weekend throughout the year, and the Memorial Day weekend trip to the Shawangunks saw nearly 50 members ma...
Three Brothers, first ascent. Sailing aboard the yacht Pelagic, Alun Hughes, Skip Novak (captain of Pelagic), and I arrived at South Georgia with the aim of making a five-part series on sailing, climbing, and the history of wildlife on the island ...
Malubiting. A Japanese expedition from Kyoto was led by Mitsugi Koyama. Their attempt to climb Malubiting (24,451 feet) was given up when on May 24 two Pakistani porters, Hidayat Shah and Arab Khan, were swept by an avalanche for 2000 feet down to...
Pisco and Tocllaraju. French climbers were active in the Llanganuco. On August 20 Alexi Lucchesi, Jean and Aimée Germanaz, Jacques Lambre and Peruvian Felipe Mautino climbed Pisco. The same peak was also climbed by Manks Wiliam and his wife, and b...
Cerro Torre. Dan Cauthorn and I departed Chaltén on January 3 and began the long, arduous trudge to the west side of the Torres. Enduring winds seldom blew less than 60-mph and frequently gusted to 100-mph. After establishing Base Camp on January ...
STRANDED, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPEDNew Hampshire, Cathedral LedgeIn January of 1989, a man (25) became stranded on Cathedral Ledge, feeling he could not go up or down. He yelled to someone on the ground to lower a rope, but he had no rope. So the...
Ningchin Kangsha. Ningchin Kangsha, which used to be given by G.O. Dyhrenfurth as Nodzin Kangsan with an altitude of 7252 meters, lies southwest of Lhasa on the highway from Lhasa to Kathmandu, two kilometers from the Lalo La. It was climbed by a ...
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED, FAILURE TO SELF-ARRESTColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Chaos CanyonOn August 16, 1991, Wolfgang Schoch and Thorstein Hoh (18) were climbing a 45- degree snowfield in Chaos Canyon, Rocky Mountain National Park...
Cho Oyu Attempt. On April 9, Australian Bill Harkin and I arrived at Tingri. Difficulties with yak drivers and moraine snow drifts prevented our establishing Base Camp at 5700 meters until the 27th. We attempted the northwest-face route with camps...
ANALYSIS OF ACCIDENTSA breakdown of the accidents that occurred during the past year (1955) and the cumulative totals are presented in Table II. There does not appear to be any marked change in the various groupings. Comment has been made concerni...
Long Canyon. Another impressive tower climb of the past year was the free ascent by Steph Davis of Jim Olsen and Alley Hunt’s 1995 ascent of the Warrior in Long Canyon, a branch off the popular Potash Road southwest of Moab. The route was rated 5....
A.A.C., Alaska Section. 1984 was another fine year for our Section. It began with a good season of winter mountaineering, highlighted by the Second Annual Ice-Climbing Festival in Valdez. The rate of first ascents of waterfalls slowed somewhat fro...
Mardi Phabrang and Tupendo I Attempt, Eastern Kishtwar. A seven- member British team led by David Mortimer had hoped to climb Mardi Phabrang (6062 meters) and Tupendo I (5700 meters). When Dr. Jonathan Bamber was struck in the leg by rockfall on S...
Lhotse in the Post-Monsoon. All ascents of Lhotse in the autumn were by the normal west-face route from the Western Cwm. The first to reach the summit were Loretan and Troillet, reported above. Three other expeditions were successful, placing clim...
Eric Brooks 1902 - 2001As an old friend and occasional climbing companion of Eric Brooks, and as a fellow member of the Alpine Club of Canada, I would like to offer my remembrance.Eric started climbing when he met Emmie Milledge, already an enthus...
Tupungato, South Face. It was reported that on January 6, 1997, Christiane Herrmann, Olaf Hollik and Frank Kostrovn climbed the south face of Tupungato (ca. 6550m), a popular high volcano in the Central Andes. The line (40-50° snow) may or may not...
The Columbia Mountains of Canada—West and South. Earle R. Whipple, Roger W. Laurilla, William L. Putnam. American Alpine Club Press, 1992. 230 pages, maps and photographs. $25.00.The long overdue seventh edition of the climber’s guide to the Inter...
Artesonraju and Caraz I, 1980. French guides Bernard Richermoz and Frédéric Pouye on June 2, 1980 made a new route on Artesonraju between the south face and the east ridge, after bivouacking at 17,400 feet. A Spanish expedition from Pamplona compo...