El Capitan’s Nose Climbed FreeLynn HillBy THE TIME THE CROATIAN TEAM had passed us, I noticed shadows of the trees stretching long across the meadow of the Valley floor below. I decided to stop trying to optimize further the crux moves under the r...
Akuliarusinguaq Peninsula and Sanderson’s Hope, Tilman-Style. Reverend Bob Shepton (Skipper and leader), Brian Newham (Mate), Danuska Rycerz, Steve Marshall and Annie Wilson left Britain on June 18 and sailed to the west coast of Greenland in a 33...
Gunnsbjørnsfjeld. Our expedition made the third ascent of Gunnsbjørnsfjeld, Greenland’s highest mountain, on August 8. It lies in the Watkins Mountains of East Greenland, north of Kangerlugssuaq Fjord. The peak was first climbed in 1935 by a party...
Gasherbrum I, Ascent and Tragedy. Spanish Climber Manuel Alvarez Diaz (38) perished after successfully scaling Gasherbrum I (8067 m) on July 17. According to sources, after reaching the summit on July 12 at 10:30 a.m., Diaz fell on the descent and...
THE DUKE OF THE ABRUZZI 1873-1933In the death of our Honorary Member, His Royal Highness Prince Luigi Amedeo Guiseppe Maria Ferdinando Francisco di Savoia-Aosta, Duke of the Abruzzi, one of the most romantic figures of our times has been lost, not...
Huandoy Group, Various Ascents and Descents. In June, Stephen Koch, Kris Erickson, Chris Trimble, Nat Patridge, Rob Buchanan, and I established Base Camp at an aqua blue lake near the toe of a glacier on the north side of the Huandoy group, one of...
"To our predecessors on K2, upon whose shoulders we climbed." Louis F. Reichardt SITUATED in remote splendor at the upper end of the Baltoro Glacier, K2, second highest peak in the world, has always dominated the imaginations of mountaineers. N...
Southern Summer Climbing Season in Patagonia, 1987-8. Just a few days ago (written on February 19, 1988), Sebastián de la Cruz returned from the South. He climbed Cerro Torre with Spaniards Ramón Portillo and Antonio Trabado from the snow cave at ...
The Mountaineers. The Mountaineers, with nearly 15,000 members, is based in Seattle with branches in Bellingham, Everett, Olympia and Tacoma, Washington. The club offers more than 1,000 trips each year in over 20 different outdoor activities, whil...
Southwest British Columbia (southern Coast Mountains and Canadian Cascades) summary. The year 2002 was great for alpine climbing in the coastal mountains of British Columbia. Activity was particularly intense in the southwest corner of the provinc...
Cerro Dos Cumbres, New Route. Stephan Siegrist (Switzerland), and Michael Wärthl andTom Dauer (both from Germany) teamed up in November to visit the Cordón Mariano Moreno, a mountain range situated in the middle of Patagonia’s Hielo Continental Su...
Clarence King: A Biography, by Thurman Wilkins. New York: The Macmillan Company, 1958. ix, 441 pages; ills. Price $7.50.Clarence King was one of the pioneers of American mountaineering, and as such deserves a proper place in our annals. He climbed...
On July 29, Tony McLane and I flew in to the Plummer Hut in the Waddington Range, and that afternoon we dropped to the Tiedemann Glacier and a bivy at Sunny Knob. The next morning, we negotiated the glacier below the southwest face of Asperity ...
Cayangate, Satan’s Legs; Nevado Chumpe, Three Chumps on Chumpe. On June 11 Mark Hesse, Chris Alstrin, and I walked into the Cordillera Vilcanota. Within the first week we climbed the northwest face of Nevado Chumpe (6,106m; a.k.a. Jatunriti), desc...
Shivling. An Indian Army expedition went to Shivling to prepare climbers for their expedition to Mount Everest. This large group was led by Major Kiran I. Kumar and Colonel Tankha. They placed Base Camp on the Meru Glacier at the end of March. The...
Number ofTotalAccidents ReportedPersons InvolvedInjuredFatalitiesUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN19511522113195231351713195324271212195431413181955343928619564672541319574553281819583239231119594225623101921960474641237819419614996114451014419627119016401...
Southern Rock. Chris Hall. East Woods Press, Charlotte, North Carolina, 1981. 143 pages, black and white photographs, maps, diagrams. $7.95.To call a climber’s guidebook Southern Rock and to cover the rock climbs in a five-state area, one would ex...
From February 16 to March 3, 2009, Benno Wagner, Markus Kautz, Paul Sass, and I, all German, visited these remote mountains in Los Glaciares National Park, southwest of Lago Viedma. We entered the area at Estancia Helsingfors, a 4-5 hour drive ...
IMPROPER DECISION–FAILURE TO TURN BACK, FATIGUE, EXPOSURE, HYPOTHERMIA, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, WEATHER, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE Oregon, Mount HoodEarly on the morning of May 12,1986, a party of 20 from the Oregon Episcopal School left Timberline Lo...
Cerro Castillo, Southeast Face. Eduardo Mondragón (España), Pablo Crovetto (Chile) and I, Rodrigo Fica (Chile), climbed the Southeast Face (650m, D+/TD-, 55° average, with a few 70° –80° sections) of Cerro Castillo (2,675m). The route had been unr...