Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Afghanistan, Hindu Kush, Mir Samir

Mir Samir. Polish climbers climbed Mir Samir (19,059 feet) by the northeast ridge. The climbers were M. Rusinowski, S. Bochenski and J. Szupinski; the date: August 17.Halina CIEPLINSKA-BoJORSKA, Klub Wysokogórski, Poland


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina-Chilean Patagonia, Aguja de la S, Two Solo Routes, and Saint Exupéry Solo, 1994-95

Aguja de la S, Two Solo Routes, and Saint Exupéry Solo, 1994-95. I climbed solo two new routes on the Aguja de la S. [It is not clear on which face the climbs were made, but it is believed they were on the east face.—Editor.] Qui Se Souvient des H...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall into Concealed Crevasse—Washington, Mt. St. Helens

FALL INTO CONCEALED CREVASSE—Washington, Mt. St. Helens. On May 29 Professor John Patrick O’Shea (46) of Oregon State University, Corvallis, Oregon, was leading a group of students from his mountaineering class at OSU, in a climb to the top of Mt....


In Memoriam AAJ
Arnold Louis Mumm, 1859-1927

ARNOLD LOUIS MUMM 1859— 1927(Read at the Annual Meeting, January 19, 1929)Arnold Louis Mumm, an Honorary Member of this Club, whose father had what was once the creditable, but what has now become a doubtful, distinction of supplying an excellent ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Central Andes, Cerro Polleras, New Route

Cerro Polleras, New Route, Central Andes. This Himalayan-like mountain, on the Mendoza border with Chile, has not yet had a revised height. Estimates range from 6232 meters to 6295 meters; Chilean authority Dr. Evelio Echevarria states that it is ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Kashmir and Jammu, Winter Trek along the Zanskar River to Leh, Ladakh

Winter Trek along the Zanskar River to Leh, Ladakh. An Indo-British party co-led by Indian Mandip Singh Soin and Briton John Barry was flown to Padum in Zanskar on February 6 to begin their 120-kilometer trek down the frozen Zanskar River to near ...


Feature Article AAJ
A Woman's Place is On Top

A Woman’s Place is On TopSelected highlights in womens alpinism.Molly Loomis1808: 18-year-old Marie Paradis (France) becomes the first woman to summit Mont Blanc (15,771').1867: Frances Case and Mary Robinson make the first women’s ascent of Mt. H...


In Memoriam AAJ
Bill March, 1941-1990

BILL MARCH1941-1990Bill March died on September 8. He was recognized internationally for his bold mountain climbing accomplishments in Scotland, Canada, South America and the USA. He also contributed much to the literature of the sport, including ...


Feature Article AAJ
Masherbrum—1960

Masherbrum—1960William UnsoeldThanks to three previous attempts made upon it, Masherbrum was an extremely well-scouted objective when our party approached it in May of 1960. As early as 1938 a British party led by James Waller had reached a point ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Rocky Mountains: Elevations in the Maligne Lake Area

Rocky Mountains: Elevations in the Maligne Lake Area. A new edition (1942) of the Jasper Park South Sheet (3 mi. to 1 in.) is now available, with the notable addition of contours and elevations E. and N. of Maligne Pass to the park boundary and th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Tenaya Canyon, New Route

Tenaya Canyon, New Route. While some Club members are painting their names across the skies above the world’s great mountain ranges, others toil in obscurity among the well-worn furrows of our home ranges. Thus my partner Tim Laidman and I happene...


In Memoriam AAJ
Louis L. Bergmann, 1907-1992

LOUIS L. BERGMANN1907-1992Louis M. Bergmann, M.D., a member of the American Alpine Club since 1949, passed away after a long illness on January 4, 1992 in his 84th year. Bom in Austria, he received his medical degree from the University of Vienna ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Jannu, Southwest Ridge

Jannu, Southwest Ridge. Our expedition, Dr. Laurenc Dívald, Daniel Bakoš, Robert Gálfy (son of the leader of our joint Kanchenjunga expedition), Oto Chudý, Ludovít Chrenka, Jidro Martiš, Ján Špánik, Ivan Vozárik and I as leader, made a new route o...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow, Unable to Self-Arrest, Illness, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand Teton

FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, ILLNESSWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonOn June 25 at 1300, Exum Guide Jim Kanzler reported to park dispatch via cellular phone an accident in Garnet Canyon. According to Kanlzer, Paul Newman (38)...


Feature Article AAJ
A McKinley Traverse via Reality Ridge

A McKinley Traverse via Reality RidgePeter MetcalfVISIONS of spectacular mountain spires, steep clean ice, Yosemite-like granite and new routes in an alpine setting filled my mind as I started planning another Alaskan expedition. The south side of...


Accident Reports ANAM
Various Falls on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Rock Flake (Handhold) Came Out, Stranded — Idaho, City of Rock National Reserve, Various Routes

VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, ROCK FLAKE (HANDHOLD) CAME OUT, STRANDEDIdaho, City of Rocks National Reserve, Various RoutesThere were six climbing incidents reported from this area. Five involved falls from routes, and in three of ...


In Memoriam AAJ
Nathaniel Lewis Goodrich, 1880-1957

NATHANIEL LEWIS GOODRICH(1880-1957)Mr. Goodrich was born in Concord, N. H., February 9, 1880 and died in Boston, April 30, 1957. He was the son of Arthur Lewis and Mary (Bachelder) Goodrich. On July 30, 1908 he married Alice Lyman, who survives hi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Kangchenjunga, North Face

Kangchenjunga, North Face. Kike de Pablo, Juanito Oiarzabal, Alberto Iñurrategi and Félix Iñurrategi arrived at BC on April 1. We worked on establishing the route the first two weeks of April, putting up Cl at 5800 meters on April 7 and CII at 680...


Accident Reports ANAM
Alaska, Kenai Range, Mt. Alice

Alaska, Kenai Range, Mt. Alice. John Vincent Hoeman, David Perry Johnston, Don Stockard, Mike Campbell, and Dennis W. Hitt, at 0630 on 1 July drove around the head of Resurrection Bay as near as they could to the base of Mt. Alice. Hitt had trappe...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Colorado, Eldorado Canyon, Bestowal Crack

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONColorado, Eldorado Canyon, Bestowal CrackMy son Chris (17), our friend Eric (17), and I traveled to Eldorado Canyon for guided climbing July 5th. After completing Bestowal Crack, we were in the process of walking...