A.A.C. and C.M.C. Joint Outing, Needle Mountains, Colorado, July 19—August 9, 1953. The Needle Mountains form a small part of the mass of mountains in the southwest quarter of Colorado, generally called the San Juans. They are located on the east ...
Tsendakang. Our members were Hiroshi Kodama, Kosuke Honma, Ryoji Takahashi, Takeharu Shumiya and I as leader. After an approach from Thimpu, which began on October 12, we arrived at Base Camp at 4700 meters on October 20 on the south side of Tsend...
FALL ON ICE, CAUGHT OFF GUARD—POST CLIMB California, Mount DanaOn October 9, 1988, Steve Letts (40) fell about 150 meters after he had just unroped from his climbing partner, Richard Hasbrouck. They had descended the 40 degree slope and were stand...
Mount Steele, East Ridge. In early July, a party of six Canadians, Bruce Fairley, Neil Humphrey, Heidi Piltz, Eric White, Ellen Wood and I, helicoptered to 7500 feet on the Steele Glacier below the east ridge, which we climbed over the next couple...
No Picnic on Kenya, by Felice Benuzzi. viii + 238 pages, with sketches and end-paper sketch map. New York: E. P. Dutton & Company, Inc., 1953.Fuga sul Kenya and Kenya, ou La Fugue Africaine, the titles of the original Italian edition and the F...
Vinson, summary, record numbers and new route. Over 120 people attempted Vinson Massif this season, far surpassing the previous record of 78 attempts set in 2000-01. This year only two people failed to summit, giving a success rate of nearly 99%. ...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, INADEQUATE INSTRUCTION AND SUPERVISION, POOR POSITIONColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Andrews GlacierOn June 14 at 1300, Mike Hill was leading a group of 25 to 30 juveniles from River Valley High School, ...
Ama Dablam. In March and April, Irish climbers comprising Cornelius Moriarty, Ciaran Corrigan, Pat Falvey, Tony Farrell, Mick Murphy and Mike O’Shea were on the southwest ridge of Ama Dablam. They had bad weather and several of the party were inca...
Yale Mountaineering Club. The activities of the YMC during 1957 were carried out largely in familiar areas. Members visited Mount Washington in the spring for ice climbing. In March, Eric Cheney, Pete Lipman, Charlie Sawyer, Chad Dilley, and Charl...
This, the eighth annual report, deals with the accidents that occurred in 1954. In addition two accidents that occurred in 1953 are reported which had not been previously reported to the committee. The statistics for 1953 have therefore been corre...
HAPE, FROSTBITE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, WEATHER Alaska, Mount McKinleyOn April 24, 1992, Daryl Hinman (44), Tom Roseman (42) and Bob Rockwell (56)— members of the China Lake (CA) Mountain Rescue Group—started out from Kantishna to do a traverse of ...
Peak Kezi-Sel, Traverse, and Jamanjar, Attempt. After 14 days’ acclimatization in Kyrgyzstan in the Kichik Alai and Alai ranges, Andrei Lebedev (leader), Ilia Guerov, Boris Malakhov, Piotr Rykalov, and I (assistant leader) began our expedition to ...
Solu Towers, attempt; Female Peak (Peak 5,290m), first ascent. The objective of this expedition was to climb one of the Solu Towers (ca 6,000m), situated above Snow Lake in the glacial heart of the Karakoram. The expedition included six women betw...
This is the forty-eighth issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering and the seventeenth that has been done jointly between The American Alpine Club and The Alpine Club of Canada.Canada: We are pleased to report a slight subsidence of acci...
The August Catastrophe on K2H. Adams CarterTHE YEAR 1986 was a tragic one in the great mountains. It was not an influx of inexperienced mountaineers innocently straying into situations which were beyond their capacities. A shocking number of the w...
Gaugiri, first ascent. Jim Frush (then-president of the AAC) and I went exploring for an obscure 6,110m (20,046') peak called Gaugiri, which is in the Upper Mustang district northeast of the Annapurna massif on the Tibetan border.We had an idea of...
Latok I North Ridge Attempt. Our objective was to make the first ascent, alpine-style, of the 2500-meter-high north ridge of Latok I (7145 meters, 23,452 feet), so nearly climbed in 1978 by Jim Donini, Mike Kennedy, Jeff Lowe and George Lowe. (See...
Pukajirka CentralLeigh N. OrtenburgerTHE Cordillera Blanca continues to attract climbers from all nations of the world. On this, my seventh trip to this splendid range, I was impressed by the progressive changes in the region, while the peaks are ...
From 2007-2010 there were four ascents of Noshaq, the highest mountain in Afghanistan and second highest in the Hindu Kush. In the autumn of 2007 Iranians Mehdi Amidi and Azim Qeychi-Saz became only the second group of climbers to reach the summit...
Northwest Face of Kichatna SpireJames D. Bridwell and Andrew Embick, M.D.EMBICK: FIXATION IS NOT logical or rational but mine had grown stronger over almost two years, for an ice-encrusted, storm-beset granite tooth in the Alaska Range. The entice...