FALL ON ROCK–CLIMBER LOWERED OFF END OF ROPE BY BELAYEROregon, Smith Rock State Park, Magic LightOn February 21, Timothy Garland (24) climbed Magic Light in the Overboard Area of Smith Rock State Park. Magic Light is a bolted route rated 5.12b, tw...
The Elevator ShaftA wild ride to the summit of Mount Johnsonby DOUG CHABOTThe first time I saw Mount Johnson (8,460 feet) was from a plane in 1992 as I was heading to the Ruth Glacier to guide a 12-day mountaineering trip. On its north face was an...
Mont Forel and Schweizerland, 1986. On the evening of July 9, 1986, Duncan Bond, Greg Englefield, Jim Lowther and I departed by boat from Angmagssalik to the head of Tasilaq Fjord where our Base Camp was to be located a few kilometers up the valle...
Chaupi Orko, Southeast Ridge. From May 15-20 Raymundo Condori, Osvaldo Cortez, Andreas (a journalist from Poland), and I traveled toward Lake Suches. Heavy snow stopped us on a secondary road two mountain passes before Flor de Nevado Mine, so we h...
PARTY SEPARATED, FATIGUE, DARKNESS, HYPOTHERMIA, CLIMBER LOST California, North Fork —Big Pine CreekOn Monday, October 12,1986, Debra Melvin (32) and her husband Mark ascended 4242 meter Polemonium Peak near North Palisade. Their route was the 300...
Sita Chuchura (Tukuche West) Attempt. Eric Delcasso led this eight-man French expedition. Three climbers and the sirdar ascended nearby 6000-meter summits and then four climbers and the sirdar devoted their attention to Sita Chuchura while the oth...
Fourteen Thousand Feet: A history of the naming and early ascents of the high Colorado peaks, by James Lathrop Jerome Hart. Second edition, with a Climbers Guide to the high Colorado peaks, by Elinor Eppich Kingery. Denver, Colo. Colorado Mountain...
Ocshapalca, south face. Back in Huaraz after the Huayhuash, I rejoined my friend Iñigo Mujica (Note: Baró Ramon and Mujica had climbed on Chacraraju and Jirishanca Norte. See note in Huayhuash section.) A team of four was descending after finishin...
Camps and Climbs in Arctic Norway, by Thomas Weir. 85 pages, 58 photographs, 4 maps. London: Cassell and Co., Ltd., 1953. Price, 15/—.Mr. Weir has written a charming account of a mountaineering holiday in Arctic Norway. He describes the climbs he ...
Wyoming: (2) Tetons. Four college boys, driving up to the Tetons in the early afternoon, decided to scramble up the mountainside. Tourists directed them in by a small road They found their way to the lower snow slopes of Teewinot - - not knowing w...
El Mocho, East Buttress; Torre Innominata, North Spur; Aguja Poincenot, East Face; Aguja Guillaumet, Southeast Face; and Other Climbs. Michel Piola and I arrived at Chaltén on December 6, 1988. Our first intention had been to try a new route on th...
FALL ON ROCK–RAPPEL ERRORCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Royal ArchesOn November 20, Meghan (30) and Matt (40), a husband and wife team, had spent a relaxed day climbing Royal Arches (17 pitches, 5.7 A1 or 5.9). Their friends, Greg and Rick, were cli...
CholatseGalen A. RowellIN APRIL 1982 while the first Russian expedition was climbing Mount Everest from Nepal with a cast of nearly a thousand climbers and porters, five of us attempted Cholatse, the last named, unclimbed peak in the Everest regio...
April 2006-April 2007, summary. In April 2006 regulars Walter Haupolter and Albert Precht visited the west side of Jebel Rum and with friends put up three routes: Silver Fox (6a), Pensionier’s Tango (6a+), and Jordan Express (6b). These routes wer...
Egotrip into the AbyssOn Alison Hargreaves, Benoit Chamoux and passage in the mountainsby Reinhold Messnertranslated by Christiane LeitingerHow empty is the abyss of the human soul, suspended for an instant between life and death at eight and a ha...
The Seattle Mountaineers write that they have organized their safety committee into the following groups: education and publicity, climbing safety developments, investigations of accidents and dangerous practice, and a group to study rescue evacua...
Wakhan Corridor, Qala-e-Voust (Qala-e-Hurst or Ust) Glacier exploration; Peak 5,049m; Peak 5,880m attempt. In August Elisabetta Galli, Lucia Foppoli, Angelo Quattrini, and I finished exploring the Qala-e-Voust Glacier in a side valley of the Wakha...
LULIE NETTLETON 1877-1960Miss Lulie Nettleton was born in Minneapolis, graduated from the University of Minnesota, moved to Seattle in 1901, and lived there until her death on February 7, 1960. Her long life was one of outstanding service in three...
Memphis Mountaineers, Inc. Formed in 1978, the Memphis Mountaineers, Inc., of Memphis, Tennessee, continued to expand its activities in 1983. Following the example set by last year’s successful trip to the Wind Rivers in Wyoming, 14 of our group w...
Langford’s Grand Teton DiaryAnnotated by William M. BuelerIntroductory note: On July 29, 1872, Nathaniel Langford and James Stevenson returned from an attempt on the Grand Teton and claimed they had attained the summit. Their claim was generally a...