Jethi Bahurani, Historical First Ascent via North Ridge

Nepal, Api Himal
Author: Hiroshi Hagiwara. Climb Year: 1978. Publication Year: 2023.

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Looking up the east ridge of Jethi Bahurani in 1978. Supplied by Hiroshi Hagiwara 

An expedition from Shinshu University in Japan, with five climbing members led by Kazuhiko Yamada, established base camp on April 4, 1978, east of Jethi Bahurani (6,850m, several spellings) in the Salimor Khola. After an initial foray onto the east-northeast ridge, they moved around to the north and on the 12th established Camp 1 at 4,500m below the north-northwest ridge. (This had been attempted by a different Japanese expedition in 1972 from the west.) Camps 2 (5,500m, April 14) and 3 (6,150m, April 20) were placed on the ridge. On the 27th, Kazuo Mitsui, Nobuhito Morota, and Hideki Yoshida reached the summit. 

Unfortunately, the climbers had permission for “Nampa South” and were therefore considered to be climbing illegally, and they were banned from visiting Nepal for three years (and climbing there for five years). There is no record of any expedition attempting the mountain since.

— Information from the Himalayan Database and Hiroshi Hagiwara, Rock and Snow, Japan



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