Cul-de-Sac Glacier, Peak 7,270’, Takyon

Alaska, Alaska Range, Kichatna Mountains
Author: Michael Goodhue. Climb Year: 2022. Publication Year: 2023.


From April 11–21, Fred Caloggero and I climbed off the Cul-de-Sac Glacier in the Kichatna Mountains. Initially we attempted a beautiful line on the west face of Sunrise Spire. We climbed three pitches of thin, narrow ice to gain a snowfield and gully system. This we followed to within 300' of the top of the gully, but were thwarted by an unprotectable offwidth chimney.

We then were successful in establishing a possible new route on the east face of Peak 7,270’ (62.42830, -152.76619). On April 17, we went on a reconnaissance and climbed a single pitch of mixed terrain, fixing a rope. We returned the next day and completed the route to the summit in 12 hours camp-to-camp.

The route consisted of two pitches of M5, two pitches of AI3+, 400' of snow, two short sections of M4, more snow climbing and facets over rock, and then a final pitch of M5 that deposited us on easy terrain within a rope length of the summit. We descended the large east-facing snow gully to the north of the route. We named the route Takyon (1,500', M5 AI3+).

I have read extensively through reports from the Kichatnas in the AAJ, and was unable to find a record of this climb, but given its moderate grade and obvious nature from base camp, it may have been climbed and unreported.

— Michael Goodhue

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