Condoriri and Huayna Potosí, Cordillera Real. From September 7 to October 4, Patrick Gabarrou and I made new routes, climbing ice gullies. The conditions were poor, with warm, unstable weather, little ice in the gullies and the rainy season two mo...

Aguja Guillaumet, Rayo de Luz and Disfrute de la Vida. Michal Pitelka (Czech) and I climbed two new routes on the west face of Guillaumet. On December 31,2008, and January 1,2009, on the right side of the face we established Rayo de Luz (450m, 11 ...

Mount Everest. An expedition of ten Swiss and two Italians was led by Romolo Nottaris. They had hoped to climb the 1980 Japanese route on the direct north face of Mount Everest in the post-monsoon period. After three months of effort, Nottaris bro...

Various ascents and ski descents. A dry winter in several areas James Bracken and I were interested in required us to adopt a “go where there’s snow” approach. Unfortunately, where there’s snow in the Andes, there’s often prodigious wind. Bariloch...

Basingthang Peaks. During October, Peter Mould led a combined climbing-trekking expedition to northwest Bhutan which had permission to tackle unclimbed “trekking peaks” up to 5700 meters from a Base Camp at 4200 meters on Basingthang yak pasture, ...

Cimes et Merveilles, by Samuel. 4to ; 40 pages of text and 89 photographic illustrations, 23 of them in color. Paris: B. Arthaud, 1952.Not to be confused with Samivel’s prize-winning motion-picture of the same title, this is the author’s pictorial...

Chinchey, Pucaranra, Peak in Cayesh Group, San Juan. Our expedition consisted of Richard Dietz, David Neff, Ben Pfeiffer, John Spezia, Gordon Thomas and me as leader. On June 16 we located Base Camp on a small grassy pampa at 14,000 feet at the he...

Washington—Mt. St. Helens: A party of 3 inexperienced 17 year old boys started for the top on October 26, 1952. They did not have ice axes, crampons, or ropes. About half way up two of them decided to return because of icy glaciers and crevasses. ...

FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTColorado, Longs PeakOn April 15, Randy Joseph (33) fell suddenly and without warning during a lead on Longs Peak of Alexander’s Chimney. Conditions were mixed thin ice and bare rock, with protection mostly rock d...

Shisha Pangma Attempt. Our climbing party consisted of Chuck Huss. Ken Nolan, John Pelner, Art Porter and me. We arrived at Base Camp at 16,000 feet by truck on April 12, anticipating a straightforward climb on the normal route from the north. Wit...

Trollvegen (Troll Wall), Suser gjennom Harryland, first quasi-winter and third overall ascent. Rolf Bae, Sigurd Felde, Trym A. Sæland, and I wanted to try a winter ascent of the Franskeruta on the Troll Wall, but poor weather and resulting avalanc...

El Capitan, Cleanup of the Nose. The Conservation Committee of the AAC provided a generous grant to a group of climbers from Prescott College in Arizona to clean the Nose Route of El Capitan and to educate climbers about conservation ethics on the...

Mount Temple, East Face. The east face of Mount Temple was climbed for the first time by Don Claunch and Fred Beckey on June 7. From the Razorback-Temple col the route follows the ridge (third class) to the final wall. The last lead is an interest...

Broad Peak. Again this year there were a number of expeditions to Broad Peak (8047 meters, 26,400 feet), only three of which were successful. A Japanese expedition from Tokyo University led by Keijiro Hayasaka repeated the standard route. Leader H...

Geldhung. The Durgapur Mountaineering Association went from Malari to Base Camp at Patalpani. On September 7 Sibapada Chakraborty, Amit Sinha, Dipak Pal and two Sherpas reached the summit (20,214 feet) of this virgin peak.Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan ...

The Temple (Methow Range), Southwest Buttress. On July 8, 1964, Norm Weber and I completed a new route on the southwest corner of this dome-shaped peak located near the south end of Kangaroo Ridge. This route is on the longest side of the peak and...

Miyar Valley, Neverseen Tower (5,700m), Mai Blau. Eloi Callado and I arrived there at the beginning of September, and after setting up our base camp (4,800m) at the glacier’s moraine we started carrying the stuff to the base of the wall (5,050m). ...

Shivling Attempt, Direct North Buttress, Alpine-Style. Christoph Hainz and I arrived at Base Camp at 4150 meters below Shivling on May 22. We spent the next seven days acclimatizing. On May 30, we moved up to bivouac at 4700 meters. At four A.M. o...

Huandoy Sur, Oro del Inca. On August 9, Pavle Kozjek (Slovenia) climbed a new route on the northeast face of Huandoy Sur (6166 meters). He started early at 4:30 a.m. from the moraine camp, crossed the bergschrund and started to climb a very steep ...

LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Owen CouloirOn June 9, 1992, H. Kammeyer (33) and his partner departed from a high camp at the Lower Saddle for an ascent of the complete Exum Ridge route on the Grand Teton. Th...