South America, Peru, Central Peru, Eastern Ranges, Central Peru

Publication Year: 1971.

Eastern Ranges, Central Peru. This tract of country is especially ill-famed for grass and bush fires during the dry season. Visibility is so much reduced by the incessant smoke that I visited these mountains at another time of the year whenever possible. In the Condorvasha range, west of Hacienda Punto, I climbed the southern projection and P 4992 of Pre-Carta 1:100,000, sheet 24-n (Andamarca), on May 24 from Aychana and P 5190 (Putac) and its northern neighbour (c. 5050 meters, 16,568 feet) on November 13 and 14, 1967 from Mina Sinaicocha by the ice-free east side. Another occasion was Nevado de Shaihua (Lasopata, c. 5160 meters, 16,929 feet) near Andamarca, or south of Shaihua (written Saihua on the Pre-Carta) on September 29, 1969. Coming from Huancas, I climbed first the two northern peaks via Soirococha, then descended a cliff to the Lasopata névé for the final ascent. On September 25, 1968 I climbed Nevado Petita (c. 5120 meters, 16,798 feet) by the south side and southeast ridge. This northern and highest of the Runatullo granite peaks is about 10 miles north of Toctuga. I left the road to Satipo at Untaipaccha, crossed the western ridge to Huascacocha and Jajarma and continued to Laguna Petita and the southern glacier. In the northwestern prolongation of the Cordillera de Huaytapallana I climbed Nevado Tranca (c. 5100 meters, 16,732 feet), a pronounced peak north-northeast of the long lake Tranca Grande, and south of the more extensive but lower Mairazo massif, on August 11,1965. Also Pico Tamiali (same height) with Bernard Frey on August 30, 1964. The latter is south of Pomamanta and Comas, but separated from the Huaytapallana range by the Malpaso depression. Near the other end of the range is Nevado Yuracyacu (16,460 feet, peak A on F. L. Dunn’s map in Harvard Mountaineering 12, 1955), which I climbed by the short south ridge, descending to Quebrada Chuoc on April 28, 1968 and again in June, 1969. Corrections: In A.A.J. 1969, 16:2, p.441 the name Lasocuchuna was an error. It belongs to a place 1½ miles further south where ice is cut for Huancayo stores. No better name for Lasontay Sur has been found so far. On the same page, the height of Raushjanca should be 5008 meters or 16,431 feet according to new maps. Also in the same issue, p.436, replace Yararico by Yanarico, and the height of Cerro Chimboya by 18,009 feet (P 5489 on Carta Nacional).

Olaf Hartmann, Göttingen University