Bhrikuti, North Summit, Tehachang and. P 6300. Damodar Himal. Seldom-visited Mustang is separated from Tibet by the Mustang Himal and the Damodar Himal. Though most applications have been refused, the Österreichische Himalaya Gesellschaft (Austrian Himalaya Society) was, as an exception, granted permission to climb 6720-meter (22,047-foot) Bhrikuti. I traveled from Austria on August 28 with much of the equipment, followed a week later by expedition leader, Christian Unger, and the other 16 members. We had a 125-mile approach from Pokhara, up the Kali Gandaki, through Jomosom and Muktinath, where we turned north and followed high paths to the head of the Tehachang valley. In the last four days we did not pass a village. We set up Base Camp on a flowery meadow beside a small lake at 15,000 feet. Reconnaissance showed that we had ascended the wrong valley and that the main summit could not be reached from there. After placing two high camps, we were able to make the first ascent of two easy peaks, Tehachang Peak (6250 meters, 20,506 feet) and P 6300 (20,670 feet). I made a solo attempt on Bhrikuti and reached the north peak (6600 meters, 21,654 feet). To have reached the main peak, I should have had to descend into another valley, which lay in Tibet. That seemed risky and time was short.

Wolfgang Axt, Österreichische Himalaya Gesellschaft