Dranang Ri, North Ridge, Attempt. It was reported that an eight-man Japanese team led by Susumu Kobayashi attempted the unclimbed snow/ice crest of the north ridge of Dranang Ri (6801m) in 1996, reaching ca. 6000 meters before being turned back by...
Southern Patagonian Icecap. Our Argentine-Slovene expedition had as objectives peaks northwest of Lago Argentino. We were Jure Skvarca, Cesarino Fava, Boris Kambic, Luciano Pera and I. My brother and Pera left Buenos Aires on January 2. They were ...
Central Tower of Paine, West Face. Fabrizio Defrancesco, Fabio Stedile and I arrived at Base Camp on October 14. After several unsuccessful attempts, stopped by bad weather, we finally completed on November 2 the first ascent of the west face of t...
Chopicalqui and Huascarán. An all-ladies party was led by Fukimo Ogura and composed of Naoko Moritani, Taeko Yanagishita, Misako Kobuna, Takako Suzuki, Mioko Suga and Onorat. After failing to climb San Juan in late May, all climbed Chopicalqui fro...
Alpinismo Español en el Mundo, volume I, by José María Aspiazu (in Spanish). Madrid: Editorial R. M., 1980. 215 pages, 54 black & white and 70 color illustrations, 10 sketch-maps and line drawings.I approach books that record the mountaineerin...
Everest Ascent and Paraglider Descent. Our expedition had as members Jean-Marc Boivin, Jean-Pierre Frachon, Michel Metzger, André Georges (Swiss), Gérard Vionnet-Fuasset, René Robert, C. Aguilera, L. Coudeyre, P. Pallandre, Denis Colangettes and m...
FALL ON ROCK, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, Yellowstone National ParkOn June 19, 1985, Albert Knight (22) and David Languilli (21) were ascending the Cutoff Mountain Ridge by bushwacking on a route parallel to a maintained trail. They reached an area of hi...
Cordillera Vilcanota. An expedition of the Paris-Chamonix section of the French Alpine Club was composed of Guy Collard, Jacques Martinet, Léon Carron, Suzanne Valentini, Jean-Pierre de Léglise, Bernard Lock, Annik Wates, Françoise Dot and me. We ...
FALL ON ROCK, EXHAUSTION, UNFAMILIAR WITH EQUIPMENT Utah, Zion National ParkOn September 24, 1987, two climbers drove almost nonstop to Zion from Atlanta, Georgia, arriving at 0900. On seeing the great walls of Zion, they decided to do a climb poi...
Satopanth, South Face Attempt and Tragedy, 1983. A Hungarian expedition of seven, led by Peter Dékány, made an attempt on the south face of Satopanth. After establishing Base Camp at Nandanban on October 4, 1983 and Camp I at 18,375 feet on Octobe...
Nevado del Plomo, El Sendero del Léon and east ridge.A remarkable ascent has been made on the 6,050m (also given as 6,070m) Nevado del Plomo (a.k.a. El Plomo), a high peak in the Juncal Group, located east of Santiago on the Chilean-Argentinean bo...
Scottish Staunings Alper Expedition. We completed a south-to-north traverse of the Staunings Alper. The journey was about 150 kilometers and followed the glacier systems on a route as close as possible to the east-west divide. We were Britons Mand...
Merriam Peak, North Face. The left edge of the beautiful north pillar of Merriam Peak begins as a blocky, segmented arête that features two or three sharp spires in the lower third and culminates in a steep, smooth, rounded buttress. In July, Dave...
Shani Attempt and Ascents of Other Peaks, Naltar Valley, Western Karakoram. Attempts were made by Andrew Macnae and Paul Bale from June 19 to 21 and by Richard Spillett and me from July 5 to 7 on the 2000-meter-high unclimbed southeast face of Sha...
Bhrigu Parvat (6041m), ascent. A nine-member Indian expedition led by Dr Anjan Chaudhary approached this peak north of Manda via the Kedar Kharak. The summit was reached on September 2 by Tanmoy Chakraborty and Arun Danti Das.Harish Kapadia, Honor...
Nilkantha Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Rob Tresidder, Ernie McGlashaw, Rebekah Beadle, Helen Jones, Mary Fysh, Richard Topliss, Paul Ramsden, Peter Green and me as leader. We walked from Hanuman Chatti via the Khirao valley to Base Camp...
First Across the Roof of the World. Graeme Dingle and Peter Hillary. Hodder and Stoughton, Auckland, 1983. 232 pages, color photographs, maps. £9.95.In these days of ultradistance exploits in many sports, it is intriguing to discover another type ...
Mir Samir, Southwest Buttress. After a two-week Volkswagen-bus trip from Imst, Austria, we arrived in Kabul and continued on through the Panjshir valley to Dasht-Rewat. We traveled with 12 horses on to Dehe Parian and branched off into the Wuryaj ...
Baintha Brakk (a.k.a. the Ogre, 7,285m), attempts to repeat the original British Route and the South Pillar. Basque climbers Juan Mari Iraola, Chus Lizzaraga, Eduard Martinez, and Juan Vallejo attempted the second ascent of the South Pillar, only ...
Poincenot, East Buttress, “Whisky-Time.’’ Working from a biovouac on the Paso Superior, with many interruptions because of the weather, we climbed the first half of our route and fixed it with rope. Finally, on February 10, 1994, we succeeded in c...