Mt. Andromeda, Andromeda Strain, First Free Ascent. In September, John Culberson and I made the first free ascent of Andromeda Strain on Mt. Andromeda in the Canadian Rockies. This 2,300-foot route is alpine climbing from the car at its best. I freed the former A1 crack in crampons at 5.10d. Other attractions on the climb included an icy 5.9 pitch, a pitch skirting an ice blob rated M5, and an ice pitch of WI5.

David A. Turner