RAPPEL ERROR-ANCHOR FAILUREArizona, Sycamore Canyon, Paradise ForksOn November 5, Shelley Windsor (31) had been climbing on several routes at Paradise Forks, Sycamore Canyon with her climbing partner Mark Brenner (26). During the climbs and rappel...
Army Service ForcesOffice of the Quartermaster GeneralWashington 25, D. C.SPQRD 201Case, John C.19 December 1945Mr. John C. Case President, American Alpine Club 140 East 46th Street New York, New YorkDear Mr. Case:This office wishes to express its...
Louise Boyd Land, first ascents. We were expecting things to go wrong, but for the first few days of our two months in Greenland, very little seemed to go right. Our Cambridge University expedition comprised Natalie Clegg, Sam Harrison, Madeleine ...
MAX E. FRIEDMANN1890-1954Max E. Friedmann, member of the American Alpine Club since 1942, died suddenly of a heart attack on a train approaching Chicago March 31, 1954. Mrs. Friedmann and he had been in the Virgin Islands for a winter holiday and ...
Mount Upton and Other Peaks. In 1968, Philip P. Upton made the first landing at the Arctic Institute of North America’s Mount Logan High Camp at 5300 meters. There followed 500 more plane trips without incident to that most inhospitable site. The ...
Mount McKinleyMilan Kriššak Memorial RoutePhilip JohnsonTHE CHANCE FOR an Englishman to climb with a Czechoslovak mountaineering expedition must be, in the ordinary course of events, relatively slim. That I had that opportunity was due to a combin...
HENRY WELTY COULTER, JR.1920-1996Henry (Hank) Welty Coulter, a prominent and distinguished older member of the American Alpine Club, died of a pulmonary ailment on February 12, 1996, in Lebanon, New Hampshire. He had spent most of his life in Wash...
Henry P. Karstens—1878-1955FRANCIS P. FARQUHARNo one has been more intimately connected with Mount McKinley than Harry Karstens, who died November 28, 1955, in Fairbanks, Alaska. He lived the greater part of his life within sight of the mountain, ...
Dos Picos, Cordillera del Río Tigre. Three expeditions visited this rugged region, which lies about 80 miles south of Bariloche, west of Cholila. The members of the Club Andino Esquel, who made the first ascent of the south (highest) tower of the ...
TullparajuDavid BernaysTULLPARATU. a 18,986-foot ice peak, stands on the continental divide in the Cordillera Blanca, seventeen miles northeast of the town of Huaraz. By the spring of 1962 both European and South American mountaineers agreed that ...
Trango Nameless Tower, Eternal Flame and Yugoslav routes, Ascents, and Variation. From June 23 to August 11, the Saxon-Swiss Trango Tower Expedition 2000, led by Jens Richter, made ascents of Trango Nameless Tower via Eternal Flame and the Yugosla...
February 2009 saw first ascents of two of Norway’s, and probably the world’s, most inspiring and adventurous ice lines: Fosslimonster (800m, WI6+ M8+) and Into the Wild (900m, WI6+ X), both located on the west coast. The lines were climbed by an i...
YearNumber of Accidents ReportedTotalPersonsInvolvedInjuredKilledUSA-CANUSA-CANUSA-CANUSA- CAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942-256-231-019-2196047-464-1237-819-4196149-961-1445-101...
Mascioli’s PillarA tribute to a climbing friend on the south buttress of Denaliby Steve HouseThin evening shadows stretch out before us as we ski up the Kahiltna Glacier. The tip of Mt. Hunter glows red above and The Great One holds her usual mass...
Kamchatka exploration. Our self-sufficient, four-person team—Melis Coady, Aubrey Knapp, Keri Meagher, and myself—made the first ski-mountaineering expedition to the Pinechevo Pass area on Russia’s Kamchatka Peninsula. With support from the America...
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING GEAR IN PACKS-CLIMBING UNROPEDWashington, Alpine Lakes Wilderness Area, Sherpa PeakOn September 25, Otto Vaclavek (53) died of hypothermia after falling between 100 and 150 feet down an ice slope and over a cliff. Vaclavek ha...
Scottish winter season summary. Late January 2005. The last vestiges of a pathetic wet snowfall are swept from the hills by yet another howling, warm, maritime wind. Temperatures on the sodden summits rise to 6°C. Only a handful of interesting rou...
Tiger of the Snows. The Autobiography of Tenzing of Everest with James Ramsey Ullman. 294 pages, 26 illustrations, 5 maps and sketches. New York: G. P. Putnam’s Sons, 1955. Price $4.50.This is a remarkable book. Mr. Ullman has succeeded in seeing ...
Trisul Attempts and Tragedy. An 8-member Polish expedition led by Michal Kochanczak attempted to climb Trisul (7120 meters, 23,360 meters) from the west in August and September. In bad weather they got to 6700 meters. Mrs. Anna Bruzdowicz Dudek di...
Meeting the Mountains. Harish Kapadia. Indus Publishing Company, New Delhi, 1998. 49 black-and-white photos. 30 maps. 398 pages. $27 (Order directly from ; reference IN 01019.)We mountaineers like to think of ourselves as individualists, but most ...