Pico Vértigo, East Face and Other Climbs. Venezuelan mountaineering has now entered a new phase, in which new routes on rock walls are sought. Local walls, granitic, are steep and at times vertical, albeit short, averaging 300 to 700 feet high. Ar...
FALL ON ROCKWashington, Ingalls PeakThe body of a young Sumner man who died—despite a female companion’s courageous efforts—after falling while mountain climbing in the Wenatchee National Forest was recovered by a rescue team on July 5.Kittitas Co...
Purísima and Attempt on Peaks of Chinchey Group, Cordillera Blanca, and Ango, in Next Range to the East. Our small group, consisting of Richard Goody, leader, Donald Morton, David Redmond, my wife Ann and me, headed from Huántar up the Ruri Chinch...
On December 16, Tom Douglas (26) and I (29) hiked up to the base of Cannon Cliff to climb Black Dike, a moderate four-pitch mixed rock and ice climb. Finding a line of climbers waiting for the Dike, we decided instead to climb a harder line just...
Rakaposhi, Northwest Ridge. It was reported that Columbian Anibal Pineda made a solo climb of the northwest ridge of Rakaposhi (7788 meters). The expedition was said to have been led by Volker Stallbohm. (High Mountain Sports 157)
Mount Ball, Northeast Buttress. Jerry Fuller and I hiked to Shadow Lake to inspect the great north face of Mount Ball but found much loose rock and rockfall off its cliff bands. Instead we chose a not too difficult buttress fringing the left side ...
Chuyunco and Salcantay, Cordillera Vilcambamba. On July 12, starting from Sisaypampa, Bernard Cabane, Bertrand Gaudefroy, Benoit Finet, Denis Bourgeois, Jean-Jacques Rochon and Francis Bourgogne of the Maison des Jeunes and de la Culture, Romans, ...
Arch Canyon, Mud Shark, How Big a Boy are You; and The Fortress, The Poop Chute. Arch Canyon, one of the most isolated canyons in southern Utah, has had my attention for years. Home to one of the state’s finest towers, Texas Tower, Arch Canyon hol...
Mount Morrison, North Face, High Sierra. Mount Morrison, visible from Convict Lake and Highway 395, has presented its spectacular and unclimbed north face for many years without attracting many serious climbing attempts. On May 28 Charlie Raymond ...
New Hampshire, Mt. Washington. On 4 April Hugo Stadtmüller (28) and John J. Griffin (40) were in Huntington Ravine and planned to practice ice climbing in Odell Gully. There had been heavy snow fall followed by high winds on 3-4 April. They were r...
Palisade Traverse in a day. Gravity takes hold of my legs, and I stumble. My lungs still bursting, I see a flash and suddenly my father, dead seven years, turns into Norman Clyde on a bergschr- und slide and screams, “Here I go to Hell!” Piss runs...
Mar Samar Group. W. Paszynski and K. Spyrka entered the Mar Samir region (previously also called Mir Samir) and climbed on September 29 a summit of c. 5100 meters or 16,733 feet from the southwest. The peak lay southwest of Mar Samir.
Annapurna IV. We climbed the standard northwest ridge of Annapurna IV (7525 meters, 24,688 feet), using some 3000 feet of fixed rope. Our expedition was organized by the German Alpine Club Mountain and Ski School with twelve members and two guides...
Lost Eagle Pinnacle, Jenkins-Fleming Direct. On July 1 Patrick Fleming and I, both secret members of the notorious Wyoming Alpine Club, whined our way up a new route on the northwest face of Lost Eagle Pinnacle. Beginning at dawn we headed for a l...
Eldorado Peak Area. Several climbs in this area include the North Ridge of Tricouni Peak, “Thunder Peak” near Mount Logan, the serrated ridge running northwest off of Eldorado, and “Early Morning Spire” northwest of Dorado Needle.
Fang Attempt. An Austrian expedition led by Josef Mayerl set up Base Camp at 11,300 feet on April 2. Camps I, II, IV and V were established at 15,600, 18,375, 19,200 and 21,325 feet on April 6, 12, 14 and May 2 respectively. While descending from ...
Peaks above Glacier Bay, Fairweather Range. John and Pati Letcher, my wife Audra and I spent the month of June 1969 in Glacier Bay. We traveled up the bay in the Letchers’ 25-foot sailboat Aleutka, but the unusually clear and calm weather meant we...
Seneca: The Climbers Guide. Tony Barnes. Earthbound Sports, Chapel Hill, North Carolina, 1995. 163 pages. $19.95.Comment: Over 400 routes in this clear, no-nonsense revision. Recommended routes listed with one star. Doubly indexed by name and rati...
Salcantay, East and South Ridges, 1983. Yugoslavs arrived at Base Camp south of Salcantay on June 7, 1983. On June 12 Tine Bucik, Slavko Frantar, Vanja Matijevic and Lado Vidmar started up the south ridge while brothers Niko and Slavko Novak heade...
Dranang Ri, North Ridge, Attempt. It was reported that an eight-man Japanese team led by Susumu Kobayashi attempted the unclimbed snow/ice crest of the north ridge of Dranang Ri (6801m) in 1996, reaching ca. 6000 meters before being turned back by...