FALL ON ROCK—ROCK FOOTHOLD BROKE OFF, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, NO HARD HAT California, Joshua Tree National MonumentOn June 7, 1992, William Oliver (30) was leading Beck's Bet (5.5). He was about 25 feet up the route, just past his second piece of p...
Trango Towers Correction. On page 250 of AAJ, 1989, it incorrectly gives the belief that the main summit of the Trango Château or the First Tower was still unclimbed. This summit had already been reached by Japanese in 1987, as reported in AAJ, 19...
Tos Valley, Kulu. The North of England Expedition went from the Hindu Kush on to Kulu. In this part of the expedition were Michael Hosted, Miss Terry Funk (Swiss), John Darling, Ernest Shield, the local Sherpa Rinzing, my wife Dawn and I. We set o...
Attempt on Jerupajá, Cordillera Huayhuash. Our principal objectives were to climb the northern (21,759 feet) and the lower southern summits, but we were particularly anxious to ascend the latter. Our group, Agustín Velásquez, leader, Jorge Peredo,...
Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park (3)—A tragic death occurred on August 15, 1956 when Mr. and Mrs. Hoffman and Mr. and Mrs. Hardwick had hiked up the Longs Peak trail to Chasm Lake and were on their way back when overtaken by a severe lightni...
Granitic Peaks of Kirgizia. An informative article describing this comparatively unknown region, many ascents there and climbing opportunities appears earlier in this Journal.
Noshaq. On August 22 five Spaniards climbed the west peak of Noshaq (23,786 feet), including Monserrat Jou, who thus reached a summit higher than any other Spanish woman. Javier Pérez Gil and José Maria Montfort bivouacked and the next day climbed...
Losar waterfall, one-day ascent. In February Conrad Anker and I did what may be the first one-day ascent of the famous “Losar” waterfall across from Namche Bazar in the Khumbu. We bivouacked at the bottom of the valley and climbed the 2,400-foot w...
UIAA International Mountaineering Camp, Hushe Valley. On August 31, all 25 members of the Second UIAA International Mountaineering Camp from 13 different countries arrived at Rawalpindi. The staff was Dr. Ruth Howlett, expedition doctor from UK, S...
Mount Paget, Fourth Ascent. It was reported that American Skip Novak, Britain Mark Strafford, Germans Gerhard Schmatz, Martin Anwander and Hans Engl, and Austrian Robert Schabetsberg ascended the unclimbed Northeast Face of Mount Paget (2934 meter...
Dragontail Peak, Stuart Range. Two new routes were made on Dragon- tail Peak, the highest mountain of the Stuart Range in the area of Colchuck Lake, early this summer by Dan Davis and me. We climbed the north face, with its “Piz Badile”-like slabs...
FALL ON SNOW – LOSS OF CONTROL ON GLISSADE, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Nez PerceOn August 11 between 1100 and 1600, Grand Teton National Park rangers and Teton Interagency Heli-tack personnel performed a 1,200- foot technical ...
Austria. Grieben’s Guide Book 234, with English text. Vienna and Heidelberg: Verlag Carl Ueberreuter, 1951.This guidebook to Austria, than which it is scarcely possible to imagine a better, supersedes the older Baedeker. Climbers will be impressed...
Silver Tip, West Ridge. Follow the Weden Creek road past the mine to where it begins to drop. About 30 feet lower and to the left is a miners’ trail. This well-marked trail leads directly to the base of the ridge (and a red tower). From here the r...
DONALD MASON WOODS1903-1989Teacher, climber, outdoorsman, photographer, world traveler, singer, actor, dancer, Donald Mason Woods died as a result of a freak accident on September 6, 1989. While alighting from his family pick-up truck in his own d...
Mt. Drum, Southwest Ridge. On June 10, Paul Claus of Ultima Thule Outfitters flew Anchorage climbers Judith Terpstra and me from Glennallen to a 6,200-foot glacier at the base of the 12,008-foot Mt. Drum’s southwest ridge (Alaska Grade II+). We es...
Salcantay, East Ridge. Our original objective had been the formidable south face of Salcantay, but the terrible avalanches which swept it ceaselessly made us give it up as too dangerous. Instead we divided into two groups. Five tried the normal ro...
This route was mentioned but not described in A.A.J. 1980. Dean Hannibal and I did a new route on the north face of Geikie in late August 1979. We followed the prominent buttress in the center of the face and then directly up a shallow buttress in...
Mount Logan, East Ridge. We four brothers, Herbert, Wolfgang and Bernhard Feichtner and I as leader climbed the east ridge of Mount Logan. On July 4 we were landed six miles from the start of the ridge. After placing camps at 11,000, 13,000 and 15...
Rixon’s Pinnacle, Direct South Face: Seeking a significant first ascent under winter conditions, Gary Colliyer and I chose the direct south face of Rixon’s Pinnacle. At dawn one day we waded through heavy drifts to the wall, although it was diffic...