DENALI NATIONAL PARK AND PRESERVE 1987 MOUNTAINEERING SUMMARYMount McKinleyExpeditionsClimbersSuccessfulClimbersWest Buttress154483165West Buttress (Guided)2720456Muldrow130Muldrow (Guided)1140West Rib64412West Rib (Guided)2130Cassin8179Cassin (Gu...
Bold Beyond Belief: Bill Denz, New Zealand’s Mountain Warrior. Paul Maxim. Maxim Books, 2011. 303 pages. Paperback. $49.95.Paul Maxim has written the only biography of Bill Denz, New Zealand’s luminary climber during two decades centered on the se...
The Villain: A Portrait of Don Whillans. James Perrin. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2005. 360 pages, b&w photos. Softcover. $16.95.Here’s a Whillans story I’ve been dining off for the last five years, told to me by a Brit climber who was 2...
Glen Aulin Area, Yosemite National Park. A number of fine routes have been done in this area over the past few years. The best approach is from near Pothole Dome in Tuolumne Meadows. This cross-country approach is much quicker than the trail from ...
We Aspired: The Last Innocent Americans, Pete Sinclair. Utah State University Press, Logan, Utah. 1993. 239 pages.As a twenty-three-year-old climber in 1959, Pete Sinclair was quoted in Time magazine: “You can’t describe climbing to people. They d...
Bitterroot Mountains, Spirolina Tower and Corner With a View. Trapper Creek’s Spirolina Tower was named after its first ascent in 1977, by Craig Kenyon and Tom Cosgriff via the southwest corner (5-6 pitches, 5.8). The tower was notable to Kenyon b...
High Infatuation, A Climber’s Guide to Love and Gravity. Steph Davis. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2007.224 pages. Black and white photos. $16.95High Infatuation, Steph Davis’ collection of memoirs and essays, is a journey through her climbing...
Bugaboo Spire, East Ridge. The east ridge of Bugaboo Spire was climbed for the first time on August 8 by two ropes: J. M. Turner and R. D. Sykes; D. Croft and D. Isles. We scrambled to the Bugaboo- Crescent col from the south side and roped-up on ...
Colchuck Balanced Rock, tucked between the river valleys and high glacier plateaus of the Stuart Range, has become firmly established as one of Washington state’s premier alpine free-climbing zones. Max Hasson and I were thrilled to add a new rout...
Harvard 1952 Brooks—Mather ExpeditionThayer ScudderTHE afternoon of 25 June 1952 four members of the Harvard Mountaineering Club sat at McKinley Park Station waiting for the freight from Fairbanks. It was a pleasant wait, our first real rest since...
Various ascents. My father, Charles B. Daellenbach of Albany, Oregon, Scott McGee of Anchorage, Alaska, Fred Skemp III of La Crosse, Wisconsin, and I, of Portland, Oregon, took a helicopter transport from Juneau to the Gilkey Trench in the Coast R...
AVALANCHE, UNSTABLE CONDITIONS, UNSAFE POSITIONOregon, Mount HoodOn June 20, 1982, an avalanche struck three members of a climbing group at the 3150-meter level of Mount Hood, killing Hugh Hake (45) and injuring Charles Hysmith (31) and Dean Tehee...
LIGHTNING–POOR POSITIONUtah, Canyonlands National Park, Lightning Bolt CracksThe incident happened on Thursday, April 12 at about 12:15 p.m. Peter Carrick (Assistant Manager for Pacific Edge Climbing Gym) and I (Pat Kent) were on Lightning Bolt Cr...
Pan American Story— El Gran Trono BlancoPaul PianaIHAVE ALWAYS ADMIRED LIONEL TERRAY and his choice of climbing objectives. Terray lived in the greatest era of climbing, an era when he could choose nearly any objective. He didn’t choose a goal mer...
Isolation Peak 1, first ascent; Mt. Shiverick, West Ridge. Mike King flew Pat Callis, Dan Davis, Mickey Schurr, and me into a camp between Isolation Peak 7 and Peak 2,488m on the Isola- tion-Malamute Glacier Divide on July 23. We climbed these pea...
FALL ON ROCK, RAPPEL ANCHOR FAILEDCalifornia, Yosemite National Park, Cathedral PeakOn July 2, Aaron (28), Mark (48), Chad (28), and Brian (49) started up the West Pillar of Eichorn Pinnacle (five pitches, 5.9 or 5.10b). Brian was unable to manage...
When Ged Desforges, Ruben Gutzat, Dan McManus, Tom Spreyer, Tony Stone, James Vybiral, and I arrived in the Hermelndal below the imposing towers of the Tininnertuup group and the awesome sweep of walls of the Hermelnbjerg, only a handful of routes...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, CLIMBING UNROPED, POOR POSITIONAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn April 16, 1986, Thierry Broisat (30), Michel Legras (27), Patricia Tuveri (25) and Jean-Francois Tuveri (27), members of the French “Edelweiss” expedition to climb the Wes...
BESIDES the 8000-meter giants, the Karakoram contains countless attractive smaller peaks. Though much lower, they often make up in difficulty what they lack in altitude. On the northern edge of the Biafo Glacier rise the Ogre (Baintha Brakk) and t...
Tawoche Attempt. Ten Britons and Americans were led by Scott Mal Duff on a guided climb on the southwest face to the southeast ridge of Tawoche. None of the clients got higher than 6100 meters, but after they left, on October 2 Duff and the other ...