P 22,270. This peak rises above the Nanda Devi Sanctuary where the south ridge of Devistan joins the ridge between Maiktoli and Mrigthuni. A five-man team from Bombay left Lata in late May for the eight days’ trek to Base Camp with 22 porters and 150 pack goats. They used 500 feet of fixed ropes, ferrying loads up the Rishi gorge. Base Camp at 14,000 feet was set up on June 3 and they proceeded through the lower slopes of Devistan to establish Advanced Base at 16,000 feet near the South Rishi Glacier on June 4. Camp I at 18,000 feet was on the lower slopes of the South Rishi Glacier. Beyond difficult crevasses was Camp II at 20,300 feet. The first summit attempt was beaten back by strong winds and blizzards. On June 13 Harish Kapadia and Mahesh Desai left Camp I at 7:30, crossed a huge crevasse and reached a col between Maiktoli and P 22,270. Then they traversed a huge ice wall to reach the summit at one P.M. Just below Camp II a snow bridge collapsed. Harish dangled on the rope halfway down the crevasse. Because the rope was suffocating him, he cut it and plunged another 30 feet down, dislocating his left hip. He was carried down to Base Camp in five days. On June 20 he was flown by helicopter to Bareilly for treatment. They have named the peak Devtoli.

Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club