Shisha Pangma and Unique Training Method. On September 5, I reached the summit of Shisha Pangma with Italians Fausto De Stefani and Sergio Martini by the normal route. We had Base Camp, Camps I, II and III at 5550, 6400, 6900 and 7300 meters. We h...
Climbs in the Cascade Mountains, Oregon and California, by Samuel F. Thomas and Charles B. Hardin. 1939.In two impressive mimeographed manuscripts we have presented material which will be of great value when there is sufficient demand for formal c...
Kwangde Lho, north face, second ascent ofBreashears-Lowe route. After retreating from the right-hand variation on the northwest ridge of Ama Dablam (reported elsewhere), Alasdair Coull and I made the second ascent of the 1982 Breashears-Lowe Route...
FALL ON ROCK, UNROPED, NO HARD HATAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Tonquin Valley, Surprise PointTwo Japanese members of an Indian Summer Alpine Club Camp at the Wates-Gibson Hut climbed and scrambled up fourth-class terrain of the northeast aspect of Su...
Putrung, attempt. One of the newly opened Mustang peaks, 6,466m Putrung in the southwestern Damodar Himal, was attempted by a seven-member Finnish expedition. Patrick Degerman’s team tried the west-northwest ridge but was turned back at 6,050m on ...
K2. A full article on the Russian-American expedition to K2 with additional details about the Mexican-New Zealander-Swedish expedition and Chantai Mauduit of the Swiss expedition appears earlier in this Journal.
Yale. The second year of the Yale Mountaineering Club brought a considerable increase in interest and activity. Members regularly practised rock climbing on Mt. Carmel, ten miles from the university; and a group of ten, in the spring of 1948, visi...
Odle, Sella, Marmolada, by Ettore Castiglione. 12 mo., 778 pages, 8 maps, 86 drawings and 32 photographs. Published by the Italian Alpine Club and the Italian Touring Club, 1937.This volume is one of a series of guidebooks to the Italian mountains...
Washington, Guye Peak. On September 23, Brian Martz, Janet McDonnell, Linda Cartwright (23), and Ed Goodman (31) set out to climb Guye Peak. All four members were experienced and graduates of Pete Schoening’s climbing class at the University of Wa...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, NUT FAILURE, NO HARD HAT, INEXPERIENCECalifornia, Tuolumne MeadowsOn August 7, 1980, I was told by the Park Dispatcher that a visitor at Tuolumne Meadows Ranger Station was reporting a climbing accident on Lembe...
British Columbia, Coast Range, Tantalus Range, Mt. Alpha. Paul Wisnicki (51) of the Alpine Club of Canada, was leading a section trip up Alpha on 25 August. At 9 A.M. in fog he was leading the 35 foot key pitch, a low grade 5, when he slipped just...
Fred Beckey and Reed Cundiff climbed the first route on the north side of the Ericsson Crags in 1972. In July, I returned with Fred to do a direct line on the face he had climbed 15 years previously. Our route followed the most obvious cracks just...
Kangchungtse (Makalu II) and Baruntse North. After a 15-day approach up the Arun valley, we established Base Camp on September 9 at 17,725 feet at the junction of the Chago and Barun Glaciers, equidistant from our two objectives. The members of ou...
Kumbhakarna, Winter Ascent, 1984. More details are available on the Korean winter ascent of Kumbhakarna (Jannu). This was the first Korean ascent and the first winter ascent. It was done by a spur on the south face which led to the south ridge, a ...
Ama Dablam. An American team led by Annie Whitehouse had planned to attempt Tawoche first and then Ama Dablam, but when they reached Tawoche, they decided against trying it. Deep unconsolidated snow lay at its base and the couloir they had thought...
Escaping from Torres del Paine’s awful weather, German Kevin Bartke and I landed in Valle Cochamó in late February, seeking some dry, sunny granite walls. After repeating some routes in the Anfiteatro, La Zebra, and Valle de Paloma, we teamed up...
Bobisghir. Our expedition was composed of Yukitoshi Tanikawa, leader, Shinichiro Kasai, Takeshi Oshida, Dr. Shigeki Nakajima and me. After leaving Dasso on May 28, we established Base Camp at 4850 meters on the Nobande Sobande Glacier on June 5. S...
Portillo Group. Francois Boucher, Julio Corradi, Jochen Groos, Nestor Sanes, Carlos Urien and Paul Ulens of the Centro Andino Buenos Aires spent the week of January 20 to 28, 1955, climbing in the Portillo Group. They made first ascents of the Sou...
Annapurna, Bulgarian Attempt on South Face, Winter 1988-9. A Bulgarian expedition was led by Metodi Savov and composed of Ivan Vlchev, Arso Arsov, Dino Tomov, Dimitr Nachev, Kostas Kandidis and Liubomir Ilyev. After a difficult approach complicate...
Maiktoli, 1990. An Indian team led by Colonel J.C. Joshi ascended the Sundardunga valley and Dungia Dhong and set up Base Camp on the Maiktoli grazing grounds on September 16, 1990. They placed high camps on the 21st and 23rd. Anil Bisht, J.C. Bis...