FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED-TRYING TO SAVE TIMEColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn July 6, Cameron Tague (32) and Emma Williams (34) were attempting the Yellow Wall Route (V 5.11) on the Diamond of Longs Peak. Tague was climbin...
Latok III Attempt. Our baggage arrived 65 days late because of engine trouble of our freighter and we were 35 days late in establishing Base Camp on August 1 at 14,100 feet on the east bank of the Baintha Lukpar Glacier. We therefore missed the go...
TABLE III Operation Conducted ForState or ProvinceHunters,Hikers,FishermenAircraftClimbersOthers’63’64’63’64’63’64’63’64Arizona 040154113British Columbia—4—0—2—0California 3316081763510Colorado 291130241410Montana 0—0—0—3—New Hampshire—0—0—4—0Oreg...
Thunder Mountain, North Face. A 6600-foot peak about eight miles south of Stevens Pass with a 600-foot granite face.
Moose's Tooth, The Tooth Obsession to summit ridge. It was our fourth spring on the Root Canal Glacier. After climbing Ham and Eggs, we became obsessed with the idea of a new route on the magnificent south face of the Moose’s Tooth. However, most ...
FALL ON ICE, HIGH WINDSNew Hampshire, Mount WashingtonOn March 24, 1983, Kenneth Hokenson (23) and Ali Kashkooli (30) were descending Mount Washington when high wind knocked Kashkooli off his feet. Hokenson ran down the slope to try to stop him an...
Kaga Tondo, Croatica, and Other Ascents. From mid-January to mid-February, an expedition of Croatian climbers was active in Mali. Boris Cujic and Ivica Matkovic led the team, which climbed a new line on Kaga Tondo. Croatica (F6c+, 650m) was establ...
California, Sierra Nevada, University Peak. On 29 May, Peter Young (30) and four companions had successfully climbed University Peak (13,632) and were descending the North side of the Northwest ridge. At about the 11,500 foot level, deep soft snow...
Skamri. Our expedition was composed of Tetsuo Nogami, Norio Fukuda, Saburo Mitsumoto, Miss Tomoko Aoyagi, Mrs. Atsuko Shibata, Miss Noriko Furusawa and me as leader. We ascended the Panmah and Drenmang Glaciers. Base Camp was placed on the side of...
Deaths on Broad Peak and Gasherbrum II. The leaders of two expeditions died in the unusually bad weather in the Karakoram this year. Both expeditions were then called off. Austrian-born Canadian Hans G. Frick died in an avalanche on Broad Peak on ...
The Bottle, East Face, Wind River Range. Though cross-country in the northern Wind Rivers is tamer than in the Cascades, it can be reasonably tough. Game trails beyond the Green River Lakes led us to a delightful, almost unknown valley west of Squ...
Snowpatch Spire. The foot of the snowpatch which is encased in the E. side of the peak was reached by C. Cranmer and F. H. Wiessner from the notch between the main peak and the tower to the E. The route taken begins about 50 ft. below and an equal...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount LefroyAt 0745 on July 12, 1987, a climber (28) was descending Mount Lefroy solo; the route was the West Col via Abbot’s Pass. At 3100 meters, halfway between the first and second r...
Makalu Attempt. Three Spaniards and a Canadian were led by Antonio Luna in an attempt on the normal route on Makalu. All four reached 7500 meters on the north ridge on October 10. Strong winds drove them down the mountain. Three went straight to B...
Gyachungkang, South Face Attempt. Our expedition Was composed of Basques Antxon Zamabide, F. Garatea, Martín Zebaleta, Kike de Pablo and me and Americans Hooman Aprin, Ron Matous, Dr. Robin Houston, Edward Farrar and Michael Ruckhouse. In Kathmand...
Kanjiroba, Ascent. It was reported that Britons Richard Bull, Neil Cooper, Andy Hawes, Mal Lewis, Andy Lind, Josie Poole, Ben Steele and Alison and Tom Wedgwood made the fifth ascent of Kanjiroba Main Summit (6883m). It was the first time in 20 ye...
Dhaulagiri and Tukuche Northwest. A 12-man Korean expedition led by Cho Chung-Sool made the 36th ascent of Dhaulagiri, climbing the northeast ridge. On November 14, Chol Tae-Sik and Sherpas Da Gombu and Wangyal got to the top. Expedition members a...
Noshaq. We had originally hoped to climb in the Darban basin in Pakistan, but just before our departure our permit was cancelled. For that reason we decided to climb Noshaq by its west ridge, from Afghanistan. We joined together with Marcus Schmuc...
Manaslu. Fourteen Japanese climbers returned in high hopes to Manaslu but at Sama at the foot of the mountain in early April, 1954, they faced the hostile inhabitants of the valley and their lamas who refused them permission to continue. They decl...
Peaks above Quebrada Honda. After two unsuccessful attempts on Tocllaraju, we made several ascents of Chinchey (20,413 feet) via the west face: Howard Bussey, Gary Poush, Gary Wilson on July 15, Raymond Jacquot, Bill Lindberg on July 18, Carlos Pl...