Ocshapalca, south face. Back in Huaraz after the Huayhuash, I rejoined my friend Iñigo Mujica (Note: Baró Ramon and Mujica had climbed on Chacraraju and Jirishanca Norte. See note in Huayhuash section.) A team of four was descending after finishin...
Camps and Climbs in Arctic Norway, by Thomas Weir. 85 pages, 58 photographs, 4 maps. London: Cassell and Co., Ltd., 1953. Price, 15/—.Mr. Weir has written a charming account of a mountaineering holiday in Arctic Norway. He describes the climbs he ...
Wyoming: (2) Tetons. Four college boys, driving up to the Tetons in the early afternoon, decided to scramble up the mountainside. Tourists directed them in by a small road They found their way to the lower snow slopes of Teewinot - - not knowing w...
El Mocho, East Buttress; Torre Innominata, North Spur; Aguja Poincenot, East Face; Aguja Guillaumet, Southeast Face; and Other Climbs. Michel Piola and I arrived at Chaltén on December 6, 1988. Our first intention had been to try a new route on th...
FALL ON ROCK–RAPPEL ERRORCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Royal ArchesOn November 20, Meghan (30) and Matt (40), a husband and wife team, had spent a relaxed day climbing Royal Arches (17 pitches, 5.7 A1 or 5.9). Their friends, Greg and Rick, were cli...
CholatseGalen A. RowellIN APRIL 1982 while the first Russian expedition was climbing Mount Everest from Nepal with a cast of nearly a thousand climbers and porters, five of us attempted Cholatse, the last named, unclimbed peak in the Everest regio...
April 2006-April 2007, summary. In April 2006 regulars Walter Haupolter and Albert Precht visited the west side of Jebel Rum and with friends put up three routes: Silver Fox (6a), Pensionier’s Tango (6a+), and Jordan Express (6b). These routes wer...
Egotrip into the AbyssOn Alison Hargreaves, Benoit Chamoux and passage in the mountainsby Reinhold Messnertranslated by Christiane LeitingerHow empty is the abyss of the human soul, suspended for an instant between life and death at eight and a ha...
The Seattle Mountaineers write that they have organized their safety committee into the following groups: education and publicity, climbing safety developments, investigations of accidents and dangerous practice, and a group to study rescue evacua...
Wakhan Corridor, Qala-e-Voust (Qala-e-Hurst or Ust) Glacier exploration; Peak 5,049m; Peak 5,880m attempt. In August Elisabetta Galli, Lucia Foppoli, Angelo Quattrini, and I finished exploring the Qala-e-Voust Glacier in a side valley of the Wakha...
LULIE NETTLETON 1877-1960Miss Lulie Nettleton was born in Minneapolis, graduated from the University of Minnesota, moved to Seattle in 1901, and lived there until her death on February 7, 1960. Her long life was one of outstanding service in three...
Memphis Mountaineers, Inc. Formed in 1978, the Memphis Mountaineers, Inc., of Memphis, Tennessee, continued to expand its activities in 1983. Following the example set by last year’s successful trip to the Wind Rivers in Wyoming, 14 of our group w...
Langford’s Grand Teton DiaryAnnotated by William M. BuelerIntroductory note: On July 29, 1872, Nathaniel Langford and James Stevenson returned from an attempt on the Grand Teton and claimed they had attained the summit. Their claim was generally a...
Earthquake on EI CapBrock WagstaffcLIMBERS, MORE than most people,seem to be aware of just how precarious their hold on this world is. When the wind is howling, and the rumble of avalanches pound a rhythm of terror into the very essence of your be...
Peak 10,497. On August 10 Graham Matthews and Irene Ortenburger climbed this peak which separates the two branches of Moran Canyon. An easy climb up the south side led to the old, crumbling summit cairn which contained no note. The cairn may have ...
Alone on the John Muir Wall, El CapitanRoyal S. RobbinsI knew that I had done the right thing when I learned that Jim McCarthy had soloed High Exposure. McCarthy, of course, is the rock of the East Coast. He’s an ace climber, lawyer, and karate ex...
Mount Wister, West Arête of North Face. To the right of the chimney utilized by the first party on the north face of Wister is a long, continuous ridge leading from Avalanche Canyon to the upper west ridge of Wister. This important ridge was first...
STRANDED—RAPPEL ROPES FROZEN, DARKNESS, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTNew Hampshire, Cathedral LedgeOn January 28, 1992, two ice climbers (early 20s) got to within about 50 feet of the top of Cathedral Ledge. Because of approaching darkness, they rappelled ...
Nun. Two Japanese expeditions were on the west ridge of Nun this year. One, led by Kazuyoshi Kondo, put Takashi Miyazaki, Tadaharu Kannari and Masayoshi Yamamoto on the summit on September 1. The other group, led by Yataka Nakagawa, was not succes...
SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH*WEATHER ON MOUNT MCKINLEYJohn G. Houghton, University of Nevada at RenoIn 1968 and 1969, weather observations were taken on the McKinley West Buttress Route by four expeditions. These included two climbing groups, the 1968 Neva...