Kimtah Peak, East Face, 1989. On April 25, 1989, my brother Carl and I climbed the east face of Kimtah Peak. Under early-season conditions, this appears to be the easiest way up the peak from Katsuk Glacier. Our route was near the center of the face, where an avalanche cone gave us a boost onto the steep rock band that spans the base of the wall. We climbed two short mixed sections to get past the band, then 50° snow to the summit crest. Lacking rock gear, we made two bollard rappels to pass the band on the descent. In summer, the face would probably be much harder. The rock band would be a formidable obstacle and there would be much loose climbing above.

Lowell Skoog