The Volcano Purace (15,420 feet) in Colombia was climbed last summer by W. Jenks Woolston of Chestnut Hill, Pa., who was on a collecting trip in that region. The climb was made from Purace village, about twenty or twenty-five miles from Popayan in...
Rock and Rope, by Showell Styles. London: Faber and Faber, 1967. 174 pages, 9 photographs. Price: 25s.Mr. Styles recognizes two kinds of rock climbers: the “tiger”, or ace who concentrates on technique, and the “rabbit”, who climbs for enjoyment. ...
Shivling Tragedy and Ascent of Southwest Ridge. After a three-day walk Australians Graeme Hill, Jon Muir, my sister Belgian Véronique Koch and I got to Base Camp on April 24. There was a lot of snow after the heaviest winter snowfall in ten years....
Bandaka. Hirosaki University’s expedition was led by Sumindo Ha- nada. They left Kabul on July 9 and reached Keron on the 17th via Hazarat Said. They established Base Camp on the 19th at 13,800 feet in the Sakhi valley. They then placed three camp...
McKinley, Entire South Buttress. Parts of the South Buttress of McKinley (Denali) have been climbed before, but starting from the airstrip on the Kahiltna Glacier on May 4, Mark Asprey, Ron Bauer, Marcus Brown, Tahoe Rowland, Mike Vanderbeek and T...
Everest Southwest Face Attempt. A Korean expedition led by Park Young-Bae had hoped to climb Everest via the southwest face. On October 11, they reached their high point of 7770 meters.Elizabeth Hawley
Domelands, Bunded Cliffs, Stegosaurus Dome, Naked Lunch. In July, John Mattashed and I made a trip into the Banded Cliffs, a series of seven domes southwest of Columbia Dome. We climbed the dome second-most from the south, which we named Stegosaur...
Peak October, October Victory. In the Ak-Su Valley three Czech climbers—M. Holecek, D. Stastny, and O. Vasek—established a new route on the northwest face of peak October (3,805m). They called the ascent October Victory, 8+/A4. The route was climb...
Annapurna I Attempt. An expedition of the Japanese Alpine Club’s Shinano section was led by Shaigeki Tsukamoto and Yukahisa Asawa. The 11-man group was attempting a new northeast-buttress route and then switched to the British Army route of 1970. ...
Rock Tower, Kedarnath. On August 27, Stefano Righetti and Maurizio Giordani got to the summit of the Rock Tower, a granite pillar of 6150 meters (20,177 feet), which lies south of Kedarnath Peak. It was attempted in 1989 by Righetti, GianCarlo Gra...
Human Performance Physiology and Environmental Medicine at Terrestrial Extremes. Kent B. Pandolf, Michael N. Sawka and Richard R. Gonzalez, editors. Benchmark Press, Indianapolis, 1988. 637 pages, charts, tables. $40.00.In 1986, the Army Research ...
FALL ON ROCK, PITONS PULLED OUT Illinois, Mississippi Palisades State ParkOn August 29, 1993, Ted Rogers (25) fell 30 feet from a climb he was on. The pins he had placed “gave way.” The extent of his injuries is not known. (Source: From an article...
A French Expedition, sponsored by the G. H. M. and the C. A. F., was also in the Caucasus this past summer. It was composed of Raymond Gaché, Jacques Lagarde, Robert Tézenas du Montcel, and Lucien Valluet. They arrived in Naltshik on August 8th an...
Shisha Pangma. An international commercial expedition organized by Hauser Excursionen and led by Yugoslav Bogdan Brakus climbed the normal northeast route on Shisha Pangma. For better acclimatization, the 16-member group first drove from Kathmandu...
Kanta Gaton (5,910m). A French family expedition made the first known ascent of this small peak in the southeast corner of the Kanjiroba Himal, on the ridge immediately southwest of 6,005m Norbu Kang (climbed from the north in 2003 and 2008). The ...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, South Fork of Cascade Canyon— Fred A. Shire, Jr. (23), of Long Beach, Cal., had told his parents that he was going to hike to Lake Solitude via Cascade Canyon and left at 5 A.M. on July 2 to do so. He had planne...
FALL—AFTER CLIMB COMPLETED—California, Tahquitz. Stan Klein, a climber from Loma Prieta Chap. RCS who has moved to LA, was making his second climb of the day with Jim McPherson. Stan led the last pitch of Graham Crackers. He completed the move at ...
Mount Triumph, North Face. In early August Pete Doorish and I climbed the Central North Buttress, of Mount Triumph. From the toe of the buttress (5000 feet), ascend steep rock to where buttress becomes a sharp arête. Continue on the solid rock of ...
FALLING ROCK—PULLING RAPPEL ROPE DOWN, POOR POSITIONBritish Columbia, Bugaboo Glacier Provincial Park, Snowpatch SpireIn August, a party of three climbers had completed the final rappel after climbing the Kraus-McCarthy route on Snowpatch Spire, a...
Changabang, north face, attempt. Andreas Amons, Cas van de Gevel, Melvin Redeker, and I tried to climb 6,864m Changabang by its north face in the autumn. Arriving at base camp on August 25, we spent the first 12 days acclimatizing and load carryin...