La Esfinge, East Face, Papas Relleñas. Cedric Cruaud, Gired Devernay, Benoit Peyronnard and Pierre Plaze made the first ascent of the route Papas Relleñas (ED 6c+ A3, 600m) on the east face of La Esfinge (5325m) from July 20-25. The route appears ...
Mount McKinley, Attempt on South Buttress. Our expedition was made up of John Link, Filip Sokol, James Sharp, A1 Gunter, Francis Raley, Nels Niemi and me. We landed in early May on the Kahiltna Glacier, walked and packed loads in eight days to the...
Jannu Attempt. A Czechoslovak expedition led by Ivan Galfy unsuccessfully attempted a new route on Jannu, the west ridge. They gave up the attempt on May 24. Details are lacking.
Articles Resulting from the American Medical Research Expedition to Everest. Only two scientific articles have so far (February 1983) been published. They are:West, J.B. “Man at Extreme Altitude.” Journal of Applied Physiology, 52: 1393-1399, 1982...
Mount Newton, 1983. In A.A.J., 1984 on page 186 it incorrectly stated that Mount Newton was unsuccessfully attempted. Croats from the University of Zagreb in Yugoslavia climbed Mount Newton on July 5, 1983 via its north ridge. Leader Jerko Kirgin,...
Mt. Asgard, east face of South Tower. In July I soloed a new route on the 2,000' east face of the South Tower of Mount Asgard on Baffin Island. My route (VI 5.10 A2) consisted of mostly free climbing with an equal mixture of well-protected crack a...
Mt. Owen. 1940, E. Cromwell, Miss G. Engelhard. Probably the first ascent via N. ridge and traverse. From Lake O’Hara via trail over McArthur Pass into valley of McArthur Creek to old campsite at 5000 ft.; 2 h. Thence up E. face (grass slopes, gul...
Huayna Ausangate, Kiru II and Payachata, Colque Cruz Group, 1985. Our expedition consisting of Bruno Anselmi, Italo Bazzani, Graziano Lampa, Livio Lanari, Dr. Giulio Zagaglia and me as leader climbed on the northern side of the Colque Cruz group. ...
Terrace Tower, Brent's Hammer. On Terrace Tower in the Cirque of the Unclimbables in July, A. Mawson, D.Lavigne, and J. Lavigne established a steep route on the southeast face. Their route, Brent s Hammer (200m, 5.11+), climbs mostly hand cracks a...
Jabel Dalfa and Jabal Haddad Massifs, West Central Arabia, 1989. On January 12, 1989, I made the first ascent of a prominent granitic pinnacle which rises abruptly from the surrounding flat, sandy desert, two miles west of the main mass of the Jab...
Changtse. Our members were Dr. Hansjürgen Tauscher, co-leader, Paul Braun, Thomas Dünsser, Martin Engler, Walter Ernst, Rudolf Frick, Andreas Heckmair, Jr., Ludwig Hösle, Peter Lechart, Udo Zehetleitner, Dr. Wilfried Zink and I, co-leader. We drov...
Chinchey Group: Shahuanca, Cherup II, El Roca del Cuyé Loco. In the Chinchey Group, up behind Huaraz, the French alpinists Clément Guntz and Hugo Robin made what they think may be the first ascent of a peak they called Shahuanca on July 25, 2000. ...
Pico Daniel Sierra Nevada de Cocuy. Two Swiss, François Petit-pierre and Jean Antolin, entered the Sierra Nevada de Cocuy through the town of Cocuy in late December, 1970. They made the second ascent of Pico Daniel (17,222 feet). (First ascent by ...
Kimtah Peak, East Face, 1989. On April 25, 1989, my brother Carl and I climbed the east face of Kimtah Peak. Under early-season conditions, this appears to be the easiest way up the peak from Katsuk Glacier. Our route was near the center of the fa...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE BELAY, NO PROTECTION,INEXPERIENCECalifornia, Mount ShastaOn March 29, 1987, John Hart (38), Richard Bennett (41), and Jean Pitney (38) were on a roped ascent of the Hotlum–Bolam Glacier at the 3450 meter level when the lead...
FALL ON ROCK, RAPPEL ERROR-WORN HARNESS BELAY LOOP BROKECalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Leaning TowerOn October 23, Todd Skinner (48) and his partner Jim Hewitt were rappelling fixed lines from the Jesus Built My Hotrod route after an attempt at free...
Ganesh II, South Face. Rick Allen and I reached Base Camp at 4300 meters below the 2500-meter-high (8000-foot-high) south face of Ganesh II on September 28. We were not alone as a large Swiss party was already established and making an attempt on ...
Mount Rainier, Direct Russell Cliff. On July 7 to 8 the first direct ascent of Russell Cliff was accomplished by Jim Springer, Dean Bentley, and me, all seasonal NPS rangers; with the support of Gordon Ball of Seattle. The route follows the 1960 R...
Cragtree Crags, East Summit, 1991. Extending west from Mount Chamberlain and above both Crabtree Lakes is a long ridge containing a number of faces, arêtes and buttresses. Just west of the scree-filled gully that separates Mount Chamberlain from t...
Colorado, Wellington Lake, The Castle. On 1 August George Long (15) and Larry Davis ( 15), members of Scout Troop 204 of Denver, had climbed the Castle. At about 15:50 they started down the rocks on the north side by the “pinnacle”. They each took...