Quebec, Laurentians, Weir Cliff

Publication Year: 1964.

Quebec, Laurentians, Weir Cliff. On 7 April a group of climbers includ- ing John Brown (28) was climbing on Weir Cliff, the route was the Yellow line Alpine grade 4 with move of 5th. Conditions: Cliff shedding patches of winter ice; weather mild. The route follows a yellow gully-like break to about half way up cliff (150 feet) then there is a long traverse to the right leading to a chimney going to the top. Site of accident: Top of the gully pitch, at beginning of traverse, piton in place. There were eight persons climbing – 2 ropes of 3 on Y. Line and 1 rope nearby. All experienced rock climbers, leaders fully qualified to overcome technical difficulties. At the time of accident, the first rope (leader Bernard Poisson) had completed the traverse and was about to start on chimney. The leader of 2nd rope Bryan Rothery had started the traverse, Brown was next. He and his companion were tied to piton and paying out rope. A stone, probably the size of an apple came down silently from the heights and hit Brown on the right side of his head, so violently to practically shear off half of Brown’s head. He died immediately, resting 4-5 feet below the piton. All got together quickly and evacuated Brown by means of one long rappel. Claude Lavallee, a powerful climber took the body down belayed. Doctors and Police were summoned from the village of Weir. The body was carried by the climbers themselves to the road on an impromptu stretcher.

Source: John Brett.