Kangchenjunga. Our expedition climbed Kangchenjunga by the southwest face, the normal route. We left Kathmandu on August 22 and got to Ramze, the last camp before the glacier, in 12 days. There, we lost our fifth Sherpa, Lhakpa Nuru, who mysteriou...
Cordillera Huallanca. A second Italian expedition from Macerata climbed in the southern part of the Cordillera Huallanca. They climbed three peaks of 5115, 5000 and 5170 meters (16,781, 16,404 and 16,962 feet). Unfortunately they have not used the...
Charakusa Area, Fathi Brakk, Parhat Brakk and Beatrice, Ascents. Jimmy Chin, Evan Howe, Brady Robinson and Doug and Jed Workman, guided by Ibrahim Zahid of Hushe, base-camped in the Charakusa (Tsa’racksa) Valley. The team climbed three significant...
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. Last fall the D.M.C. sponsored a six-week course in rock climbing. Most of the participants were members of the Club or candidates for membership, but instruction was offered to any student who wished to satisfy the ...
Central Hindu Kush. There was considerable climbing activity in the central Hindu Kush of Afghanistan in 1969. I have been able to find out the following up to this time. The French had for the first time some climbing successes there; M. Gravost ...
Pumori. Several expeditions successfully climbed Pumori in the postmonsoon season. Spaniards led by José Javier Quinones placed Miguel Angel Serrano and Pedro Pablo González on the summit on October 7. Japanese leader Mitsuo Nomura and Takehiko Ya...
Makalu, West Ridge. On February 16 the French expedition to the west ridge of Makalu headed for Nepal. It was composed of Lucien Bérardini, François Guillot, Robert Jacob, Claude Jager, Bernard Mellet, Jean-Claude Mosca, Jean-Paul Paris, Georges P...
El Gran Trono Blanco, Cañón del Tajo, Sierra de Juárez, Baja California, 1988-90. Dan Curley and I established two new routes on the south face of El Trono Blanco. La Joya (IV, 5.11+) was completed in November, 1988. Ten pitches of face climbing w...
FALL ON ROCK-DISLOCATED KNEE, FALL ON SNOW-UNABLE TO SELFARREST, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INABILITY TO CONTINUE DUE TO INJURIES, TRYING TO PLEASE OTHERS, INADEQUATE COMMUNICATIONWashington, North Cascades, Mt. Baker, Spider/Formidable CouloirMarty, Da...
P6166 on the Arwa-Sweta Divide. A four-member ladies’ team from Calcutta, Munmun Chatterjee, Dola Sirkar, Mousumi Ghosh and Amita Bhattarcharjee, set up Base Camp at Nandanban at 14,500 feet on May 14. They set up six higher camps: Visukital, Sund...
The “Egyptian Peaks”, Commander Group. In late July John Jeglum and I, together with our families, drove about 9 miles up the recently improved Jumbo Creek road to the old logging camp along the north terminal fork of Jumbo Creek at 5500 feet. Fro...
Apart from ascents reported in detail [elsewhere in this edition], two new routes were climbed on the south face of Aguja De l’S. In late December Hayden Kennedy (U.S.) and Jason Kruk (Canada) climbed the lower half of Thaw’s not Houlding Wright (...
FALL OR SLIP ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Bastille, Werk Supp Michael Hankins (47), an experienced and highly regarded climber from Oklahoma set out to solo Werk Supp (5.9) on July 22. He fell when he was 50 feet...
Connecticut—Sleeping Giant, State Park: On the afternoon of May 2, 1953, members of various mountaineering clubs were engaged in recreational climbing on Mt. Carmel after a morning occupied in discussing and demonstrating mountaineering safety tec...
Nanga Parbat, Schell Route Attempt. Our members included Jim Bock, Bruno Hasler, Andy Lapkass, Tom Mereness and me. We left Gilgit on August 29 and set up Base Camp at 3700 meters in the upper Rupal valley on the 30th. We kept five porters to help...
Domelands, Lamont Pinnacles, Various Ascents. Lamont Pinnacles is one of those seldom visited areas positioned near the southeastern fringe of the Domelands Wilderness. Its lofty position overlooking a Joshua Tree-like environment, locally known a...
FALL ON ICE, NO PROTECTION, FATIGUE, INEXPERIENCE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount AthabascaOn the morning of February 13, 1993, a party of two from Washington state set out to climb the north face of Mount Athabasca. Their intent was to complete t...
Sri Kailas Attempt. An Indian team led by Jayant S. Dofe attempted Sri Kailas (6932 meters, 22,745 feet) in June. The peak lies above the Raktavam Glacier in the Gangotri area. The ten climbers followed the traditional route over the glacier to th...
CB 44, a previously unnamed peak in Central Lahul, probable first ascent. Our organization, Kolkata Trekkers Youth (formerly Calcutta Trekkers Youth) of West Bengal, organizes expeditions in unexplored regions, or to virgin or relatively unknown p...
Colorado Mountain Club. The Colorado Mountain Club had an active 1973 with about 800 trips conducted which included about 650 climbs on some 300 peaks, a climbing trip to Idaho’s Sawtooth Range, a three- week hiking trip to Norway, exploration of ...