Pico Tas Cupís, First Ascent. Pico Tas Cupís, an unclimbed rock tower (440 meters) situated in the central district of the Sierra de la Culata, was discovered by our group of young climbers. It belongs to the Mina de Hierro massif, located near th...
Malubiting West Attempt. Ten Spaniards led by Jaume Campolier failed in their bid to climb Malubiting West.Josep Paytubi, Servei General d’Informació de Muntanya
Amphu Middle (6,238m), first known ascent. On April 20 Alexander Graeber and Olaf Rieck made the first known ascent of Amphu Middle. The next day three other members of their team, Erik Jahn, Karen Mehlhase, and Christian Pech followed their foots...
Fin Arête, Little Cottonwood Canyon. In November my brother Jonathan and I climbed a new route just left of the “Dorsal Fin.” The four pitches, all bolt protected, basically follow the ridge. The crux is the first pitch, but the third is also hard...
Arrigetch Peaks, Various Ascents. On June 15,I flew to Fairbanks, Alaska, where I met up with Fred Beckey, Dave Medara and Canadians Rick Clements and Kai Hirvonnen. Fred was the trip organizer; Dave had invited me to join him. From Fairbanks, we ...
FALLS ON ROCK AND SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, AVALANCHE, ETC.Washington—Various LocationsThere were 18 accidents reported from Washington this year, none of which resulted in fatalities. Fourteen involved falls—nine on snow...
Buck Mountain, Stewart Draw Buttress. A new area for convenient rock climbing was found by Yvon Chouinard and Kathrene Collins in July, 1980 on the buttress rising on the south side of Stewart Draw, the traditional approach for the regular route o...
Peaks above Dorah and Ramgul Passes, 1965. An expedition composed of Heinrich Dauer, Dieter Fischer and Andreas Geis climbed first in the region north of the Dorah Pass in the upper Chapdarra valley. There they climbed Bini Zard (16,601 feet), Bam...
Qow Xab (Palung Ri) (7,022m). I made a quick ascent of unclimbed [see editor’s note below] Qow Xab via the northwest ridge in 9 days from BC (4,915m) on the Balung Glacier. This was accomplished by crawling up through innumerous hidden crevasses a...
Castleton Tower and Monster Tower, Wingate Spires. In October and early November Chester Dreiman and I climbed new routes on two Wingate Spires. On Castleton Tower, between the Kor-Ingalls and the North Chimney routes, we did Star Dust Cowboy (III...
STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, EXCEEDING ABILITY, BAD WEATHER, EXPOSURE California, Five Open BooksThomas Kornesczuk (15) and Terry Orman (14) were climbing in T-shirts and jeans on Five Open Books late in the afternoon on November 23. The weathe...
K2, Abruzzi Ridge. It was reported that Ronald Naar (Netherlands) led the first Dutch expedition to K2. Their attempt was successful, and involved around 3000 meters of fixed rope. Summitters were Ronald Naar, Hans Van Gerd Mulen, Rajab Shah (Paki...
Mount Everest. An Indian expedition under the leadership of Major John D. Dias nearly climbed Mount Everest at the end of May. They were driven back only 400 feet from the summit by frightful weather. In a letter to the editor, Hari Dang thus desc...
Manless Climbing. An otherwise ordinary season in the Tetons was enlivened by the success of two new manless climbs of the Grand Teton. On August 3 Sue Swedlund and Irene Ortenburger climbed the Underhill Ridge, Buckingham variation, for the third...
Trisul. The third ascent of Trisul (23,260 ft.) was made by R. D. Greenwood and Gurdial Singh of Dehra Dun on 25 June 1951. Greenwood, who is an instructor at the National Defence Academy, later climbed Ratanban (20,000 ft.) and also reached a poi...
Southern Picket Range, Complete Enchainment. In July this long-standing east-to-west challenge was completed by Mark Bunker, Colin Haley, and Wayne Wallace. All 14 major summits in the southern Pickets were climbed during the four-day traverse, se...
FAILURE AND LOSS OF CRAMPON, FALL ON ICEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade MountainOn December 25, 1981, a Calgary man (24) was practicing ice climbing on the lower pitches of a Cascade waterfall. One of his crampons came off, he lost his balance a...
FALL ON ICE, PROTECTION PULLED OUT—ICE TOOLAlberta, Banff National Park, Professor Falls,On March 10 at 1130, T.M. was leading the last pitch of Professor Falls (III WI4). She was having some difficulty placing a screw due to the brittle nature of...
Climbs in the Northern Rockies Near Redfern Lake, B. C. Two weeks of excellent weather contributed to the success of an expedition to the hitherto unvisited mountains in the vicinity of Redfern Lake. Members of the expedition were Robert West (lea...
Makalu II or Kangchungtse, 1979. On page 605 of A.A.J., 1980 we gave a report on this ascent but did not have the names of the climbers who reached the summit. These have been kindly given by Dr. Gerhard Lenser, the expedition leader. The ascents ...