RAPPEL FAILURE—ERROR IN ANCHORING, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount RundleOn September 10, David and Edward, (both 18), from England, and temporary employees of the Banff Springs Hotel, were rock climbing on the lower ridge of Mt. Rundl...
Tashi Kang and Peak 6,195m, ascents. While acclimatizing for their attempt on the northeast ridge of Dhaulagiri, a group of primarily German climbers successfully reaced the top of two low 6,000m peaks in the Hidden Valley, north-northeast of Dhau...
Broad Peak Attempt and Ghondokhoro La. An Himalayan Kingdom expedition was led by Welshman Martin Barnicott with climbing leader Russell Brice from New Zealand. The clients were Italian Fulvio Fresia, Canadian Dr. Stuart Hutchinson, Finn Mikko Val...
Harvard. If one is to judge by performance, past, present and (probable) future, the Harvard Mountaineering Club still occupies a stellar position in the collegiate mountaineering scene. The club has successfully adjusted itself to post-war condit...
L’Oeuvre scientifique du Club Alpin Français (1874-1922). 8 vo. ; pp. 518, with illustrations, maps and index. Paris, 1936.In an impressive volume the scientific committee of the French Alpine Club presents the club’s work over a period of fifty y...
Mount Kenya. John Reader. Elm Tree Books, London, 1989. 160 pages, color photographs. £ 25.00.In this age when ‘climbing’ conjures up visions of Lycra-clad youth grunting and swearing as they push the limits of human endurance another notch, it is...
FALL ON SNOW/ICE, MODERATE EXPERIENCEWashington, Mount RainierOn August 20, Scott Porter (32), Karl Ahrens (35) and Brian Nelson (32) were descending the upper Emmons Glacier after summiting. SMR members Kim Klasch and Bob Schumaker were on standb...
Peaks East of Pumasillo, Cordillera Vilcabamba. The Cucamonga Rambling Company Expedition spent one month, from June 25 to July 23, on the eastern side of the Pumasillo massif. Our group consisted of two women, Kathy Anderson1 and me1, and three m...
FALL ON ICE, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, EXCEEDING ABILITIESNorth Carolina, Doughton ParkOn January 19, Shawn Hansen (30) died after the anchors he was using to support his friend on an ice floe broke loose.Hansen's friend, Ed Williams (30) of Raleigh ...
Washington, Cascades, Monte Cristo Peak. On July 15, Val Comstock (66) and two companions were descending from the summit to join another party. The steep but excellent snow conditions and the beautiful weather encouraged sitting glissades. On one...
FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, EXCEEDING ABILITIESCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyBrian Bennett (21) and Alan Swanson (24) stated that they began climbing the Harding Route on Glacier Point Apron (Grade III, Y.D.S. 5.7), at 10...
Annapurna I, Northwest Ridge, New Route. A 10-member expedition (eight Poles, one Ukrainian and one American) led by Michal Kochanczyk, successfully surmounted the formidable unclimbed northwest ridge of Annapurna I, the world’s tenth highest moun...
British Columbia, Rockies, Mt. Vice-President. On 10 August J. A. Van Geldersen (26) of Vancouver, was climbing solo in Yoho National Park. He first climbed Mt. President, descended it safely, and then reached the top of Vice-President. While desc...
Palisade Traverse, second continuous ascent. Our climb consisted of a complete traverse of the Sierra Crest from Southfork Pass to the summit of Mt. Agassiz, a distance of approximately eight miles. This route is notable not only for its length bu...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONOntario, Dundas, Webster’s FallsOn February 7, 1982, Glenn Yates (21) and Graeme Smith (19) were ice climbing at Webster’s Falls. The following is an edited version of Smith’s account of the accident.After a good ...
Mount Humphreys Variation. In August, Mark Hoffman and I followed the regular route to a point just below the normal class-4 pitch, which climbs the left side of the ridge crest. We traversed to the right side of the ridge and climbed a thin crack...
FALL ON ROCKAlberta, Banff National Park, Moraine Lake, Schiesser Ledges RouteOn July 23, G.A. (62) was a member of a guided party that was on a multiday traverse in the ten peaks area in Banff National Park. The party had climbed up to The Neil C...
Oregon Section. The Oregon section has had a very busy year. Richard Bence Oregon section web master has kept the section in touch and working with Jeff Alzner and others to organize functions. Richard Bence hosts the Oregon section web site (http...
Makalu II Attempt. On our way to attempt Makalu II’s northwest ridge one of the loads containing the expedition’s ice tools fell into the Arun River, never to be seen again. One member raced back to Kathmandu to replace the lost equipment. After f...
Kangchenjunga, First Winter Ascent and Tragedy, 1986. A 17-man Polish expedition led by Andrzej Machnik made the first winter ascent of the world’s third highest mountain. Base Camp was established on December 10 at 5100 meters. They climbed the f...