Notes AAJ
Historical Note and Correction

Historical note and correction. Several historical references to this mountain contain mistakes. Although the Slovenian route appears similar to route 328 on Puscanturpa Este drawings 157, 159, and 160 in Jan Kielkowski’s impressive 1992 Cordiller...


In Memoriam AAJ
George Evans, 1935-1982

GEORGE EVANS1935-1982I knew George for thirty years as a friend, a fellow engineer at Perkin Elmer and climbing companion. He attended M.I.T. and University of New Hampshire.In climbing, George was conservative, careful and confident. He thought o...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Hunter and Deborah, 1993

Hunter and Deborah, 1993. Holly Samson and I climbed the west ridge of Hunter to 9200 feet on May 20, 1993. The next day, in deteriorating weather, we climbed the spectacular corniced ridge and reached the summit (4442 meters, 14,573 feet) at ten ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, The Peninsula, Various Climbs

Antarctic Peninsula, various climbs. The British Army Antarctic Expedition aboard the John Laing made the second ascent of Mt. Johnston (2,304m) and conducted exploration of the high Peninsula areas, including the Forbidden Plateau. A climbing par...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Chambe, West Face, Nkhalango Khoswe; Lower Eastwood-Howell Route, First Free Ascent Africa, Malawi, Mulanje Massif

Situated south of Tanzania and west of Mozambique, Malawi is a small country in southern Africa best known for its lake of the same name. A year ago Jeremy Roop and I had stumbled across a website describing a half-mile-long, 5,500' wall on the we...

| Published N/A | Author Joe Forrester


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, Ellsworth Mountains, Sentinel Range, An Exploratory Journey through the Ellsworth Mountains in 2002-03, and First Ascent of Mt. Segers

An exploratory journey through the Ellsworth Mountains in 2002-03, and first ascent of Mt. Segers. On November 10, 2002 four Chilean mountaineers, Pablo Gutiérrez, Eugenio Guzmán, Ernesto Olivares, and I started a journey of over 400km through the...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine—Chilean Patagonia, La Catedral, East Face

La Catedral, East Face. We saw a picture of La Catedral on a postcard. With no more information than that, John Catto, leader, Peter Gallagher, Max Kendall and I arrived in Patagonia on New Years Day, 1992, intent on making the first ascent of the...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Distraction, Poor Position, Pennsylvania, Ralph Stover State Park

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, DISTRACTION, POOR POSITIONPennsylvania, Ralph Stover State ParkOn October 22, 1989, Phillipp Grout (40) took a six-meter fall to the ground while leading the center crack on the practice wall. Climbing a meter ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Pumori Pre-Monsoon Attempts

Pumori Pre-Monsoon Attempts. A Japanese expedition reached 6400 meters on Pumori via the southeast face to the east ridge on March 28, but the climb was called off when leader Yoshikuni Mori fell into a crevasse and was killed. The deputy leader w...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow, Climbing Unroped, Oregon, Mount Hood, Southside

FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPEDOregon, Mount Hood, SouthsideOn July 5, Erik Heerlein (35), a climber from South Carolina, fell approximately 200 feet while descending the Mazama Chute variation (10,500-foot elevation) of the Southside Route. His un...


In Memoriam AAJ
Helen I. Buck, 1884-1972

HELEN I. BUCK 1884-1972This year the Club lost a most distinguished member, Helen I. Buck, known and loved by generations of American mountaineers. Many climbers, foreign and American, came to know this cheerful, knowledgeable, modest woman in the...


Notes AAJ
Editor's Note: Guide to the Rwenzori — Mountains of the Moon

Editors note: Guide to the Rwenzori - Mountains of the Moon; 336 pages including 48 color plates, 25 grayscale, and 30 maps and drawings; ISBN 0-9518039-6-4. Publication date June 2006. £16.00.The 1972 Osmaston and Pasteur “Guide to the Rwenzori,”...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Along the Backbone of the Big Bend, Canadian Rockies

Along the Backbone of the Big Bend, Canadian Rockies. With the support of three air supply-drops at an estimated distance of four days’ hike apart, Sterling B. Hendricks, Donald Hubbard, and Alvi E. Peterson undertook to travel the alpine uplands ...


Accident Tables ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table III

Numbers Refer to Number of Persons Involved1951-711959-711972U.S.A.CAN.U.S.A.CAN.TerrainRock10097412225Snow533804915River4000Unknown1210Ascent or DescentAscent758909025Descent696607113Unknown936112Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock552426011Failur...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Api, West Ridge Attempt

Api, West Ridge Attempt. The Japanese Chuo University Expedition failed to climb Api in western Nepal. The leader was Kuniharu Ichikawa and the deputy was Yasunuri Hirota. They attempted the unclimbed west ridge. From Camp IV at 19,600 feet they t...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Ice, Weather, New Hampshire, Mount Adams

FALL ON ICE, WEATHERNew Hampshire, Mount AdamsHigh winds and ice-covered trails brought a January Presidential Range traverse to a sudden stop when a climber fell and broke her leg. On the second day of what would have been a three-day guided rang...


Club Activities AAJ
AAC, New York Section

AAC, New York Section. As the millennium approached, the New York Section could look back on 25 years of continued growth and a strong tradition of volunteerism and financial support on behalf of Club causes. Now numbering more than 600 members—a ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Europe, Iceland, Skardatindar, New Route

Skardatindar, new route. In February Jean-Baptist Deraeck, Sebastien Ibanez, Sébastien Ratel, and I climbed what we think is a new route on Skardatindar (1,385m). We did not have any information on this mountain. We expected to find a route, but c...


Book Reviews AAJ
Mont Blanc Sideshow, The Life and Times of Albert Smith

Mont Blanc Sideshow, The Life and Times of Albert Smith, by J. Monroe Thorington. 8 vo., 255 pages including appendices, bibliography and index, containing twenty-nine illustrations. Philadelphia. The John C. Winston Co., 1934. Price $2.50.The aut...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
India, Himalaya, Overview

Overview. Forty-six foreign and 47 Indian expeditions climbed in the Indian Himalaya during 2005. These numbers were lower than normal. Among the foreign expeditions, more that half climbed on such standard objectives as Nun, Kun, and Kedar Dome. ...