Pumori, Winter Attempt. Our expedition was made up of Werner Stricker, Stefan Plangger, Andreas Wellenzohn, Johann Zoderer and me as leader. We had hoped to make a winter ascent of the southeast ridge of Pumori. After a 12-day approach, we got to ...
Annapurna South or Moditse Attempt. A Japanese expedition from the Sagamino Alpine Club was led by Kuniaki Yamada. They attempted a new route from the northeast but failed at 22,175 feet, where a Japanese and a Sherpa turned back on April 28 becau...
High Altitude Medical Science. G. Ueda, S. Kusama and N.F. Voelkel, editors.Shinshu University Press, Matsumoto, 1988. 462 pages, charts, tables.As Japanese climbers have swarmed over the highest Himalaya in the last twenty years, their doctors ha...
FALLS ON ROCK, STRANDED, NO HARD HAT, ETCNew Hampshire, Cathedral Ledges and Cannon Cliffs(The following excerpt from George Hurley’s personal “Newsletter" he sends out at least twice a year captures the summer accident scene in New Hampshire. Geo...
FALL WHILE DESCENDING—California, Yosemite Valley, North Dome Gully. John Shiner (23) and two friends had successfully climbed the Arches Direct 5.7 Al, spent the night and tried to come down the standard descentroute of North Dome Gully. It was m...
Elephant Head, Northwest Ridge. On August 6 James Martin and I climbed this route from our camp on the Dome Glacier. We traversed the upper Dana Glacier and started climbing left of Elephant Head’s steep west face. After several hundred feet of sc...
Nanda Kot, east ridge, attempt: Nanda Devi East, south ridge, attempt. Our approach to the Nanda Devi region began on August 30. After a three-day bus ride, six days walking up an ancient Indo-Tibetan trade route brought us to a base camp below Na...
Abi Gamin. A 12-member Indian team led by Vasant V. Limaye failed to climb Kamet, but they summited on Abi Gamin (7355 meters, 24,130 feet) in September.Kamal K. Guha, Editor, Himavanta, India
On November 28 Martin Ploug and I, from Denmark, made the first ascent of Ren Zhong Feng, a little-known peak that was believed to be one of the few remaining unclimbed 6,000m summits in Sichuan Province.We established base camp at 3,100m in the G...
In the Rain and the Sun, by the Rt. Hon. L. S. Amery, C. H. 238 pages. London and New York: Hutchinson & Co., Ltd., 1946. 21/-.A sequel to Days of Fresh Air*, this is essentially an account of the author’s travels outside of England since 1914...
Cerro Torre, Attempt. Slovenian Grega Lance and Spaniard Carlos Suarez attempted a new route on the east face of Cerro Torre during the 1996-’97 season. Further details are lacking.Charlie Fowler, unaffiliated
Deep in the Shaluli Shan mountains of China lies the Genyen Massif, an area that has been described to us as “the Tetons jacked up on steroids.” Dave Anderson, Sarah Hueniken, Andy Tyson, and I have been lured halfway around the world by this desc...
Summit Guide to the Cascade Volcanoes. Jeff Smoot. Chockstone Press, Evergreen, Colorado, 80439, 1992. 182 pages. 62 black-and-white photos, 14 peak sketches. 46 line maps. $12.95.This volume is a handy guide for all who aspire to scrambling up th...
Before our attempt on Goromity (as reported elsewhere in this section), Hitoshi Onodera and I traveled to Kangding, en route to the Gongkala Shan, where we had a permit from the Sichuan Mountaineering Association for Kawarani (I, 5,992m; II ...
Mt. Edwards, North Face, Chaos Theory. On previous trips in previous years, I often found myself drooling hopelessly as I looked up at a very elegant unclimbed line of mixed rock and ice on the north face of Mt. Edwards. This year, because of an e...
Fisher Towers, Various ascents. The Minotaur saw a first ascent (IV 5.9+ C2) by Lisa Raleigh and Duane Raleigh in five-and-a-half hours with no pitons and only two bolts. The route begins just right of Ancient Art and climbs the formation in seven...
DeborahBrian Okonek, Mountaineering Club of AlaskaWHEN Fred Beckey, Heinrich Harrer, and Henry Meybohm stepped onto the summit of Deborah twenty-one years ago for a first ascent, they came to the “unanimous conclusion that Deborah was the most sen...
Everest, Kangshung Face Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Canadian Barry Blanchard, Americans Steve Swenson, Sandy Pitman (f), Alex Lowe and me as leader, and Sherpa climbers Wongchu, Kaji, Pinzo and Nawang. Lowe, Kaji, Pinzo and I had all c...
ELIZABETH LARNED MacCARTHY1877 - 1944On February 10, 1944, when we were in the woods with her devoted dogs enjoying the morning sunshine and the scent of the forest at Camden, S. C., Elizabeth Larned MacCarthy suddenly passed through the veil that...
Lover's Leap Access Report. Significant changes have taken place at the Lover’s Leap climbing area. Local property owners, the U.S. Forest Service, and climbers working together have presently resolved their conflicts and pro vided solutions to th...