North America, United States, Washington—Olympic Mountains, Valhalla Group

Publication Year: 1972.

“Valhalla" Group. Up the south fork of the Hoh River there seemed to be unclimbed peaks about three miles from Mount Olympus on the southwest ridge towards Pelton Peak, reminiscent of the Bugaboos on a miniature scale. After a reconnaissance ended by bad weather in 1970, Glenn Kelsey, Roger Beckett and I were back in the last week of May, 1971 with Dan Michaels, Dave Stevens, Monty Lennox, Dave Haley and Bob Yekel. We headed first for “Woden”, the highest of the group. After climbing a steep snow slope and crossing the bergschrund, we reached the summit by a class-four pitch of excellent rock only to be completely demoralized by the presence of a register. Our “virgin” peak had been climbed in 1966 by Ivan Lundgren of Tumwater and Ernest Labistida of San Diego. On the descent we climbed one of the adjoining peaks, also finding a register. A peak of massive proportions, yet lacking height, inspired the name of “Thor”, the god of lightning and thunder. “Loki”, the mischievous god, supplied the name to the needle-shaped rock. The next day, all but I ascended “Thor” and “Loki” for first ascents. “Loki” was an interesting shinny up its last 12 feet so that one could place a hand on its tip as if it were a flagpole. The next day we all climbed the other peak adjoining “Woden”, apparently a second ascent, and then traversed two more unclimbed peaks.

HAROLD L. PINSCH