Connecticut—Sleeping Giant, State Park: On the afternoon of May 2, 1953, members of various mountaineering clubs were engaged in recreational climbing on Mt. Carmel after a morning occupied in discussing and demonstrating mountaineering safety tec...
Nanga Parbat, Schell Route Attempt. Our members included Jim Bock, Bruno Hasler, Andy Lapkass, Tom Mereness and me. We left Gilgit on August 29 and set up Base Camp at 3700 meters in the upper Rupal valley on the 30th. We kept five porters to help...
Domelands, Lamont Pinnacles, Various Ascents. Lamont Pinnacles is one of those seldom visited areas positioned near the southeastern fringe of the Domelands Wilderness. Its lofty position overlooking a Joshua Tree-like environment, locally known a...
FALL ON ICE, NO PROTECTION, FATIGUE, INEXPERIENCE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount AthabascaOn the morning of February 13, 1993, a party of two from Washington state set out to climb the north face of Mount Athabasca. Their intent was to complete t...
Sri Kailas Attempt. An Indian team led by Jayant S. Dofe attempted Sri Kailas (6932 meters, 22,745 feet) in June. The peak lies above the Raktavam Glacier in the Gangotri area. The ten climbers followed the traditional route over the glacier to th...
CB 44, a previously unnamed peak in Central Lahul, probable first ascent. Our organization, Kolkata Trekkers Youth (formerly Calcutta Trekkers Youth) of West Bengal, organizes expeditions in unexplored regions, or to virgin or relatively unknown p...
Colorado Mountain Club. The Colorado Mountain Club had an active 1973 with about 800 trips conducted which included about 650 climbs on some 300 peaks, a climbing trip to Idaho’s Sawtooth Range, a three- week hiking trip to Norway, exploration of ...
A.A.C., New York Section. The 1988 year was a busy and productive one for the New York Section. As has been our custom, Section members received invitations to several lecture programs followed by a social hour, along with a Spring members’ event,...
The Biggest Bear on Earth, by Harold McCracken. 4to, xii + 114 pages, with frontispiece in color and other full-page illustrations by Paul Bransom. New York: Frederick A. Stokes and Co., 1944. Price $2.00.The author is a member of the Explorers Cl...
British Columbia, Purcell Range, Mt. Taurus. On July 22, Kenneth Carr (44) set out alone to climb the east shoulder of Mt. Taurus. His tracks were later followed by a search party for a short distance but then lost. It was presumed that he fell in...
Cape Renard Tower, Attempt. It was reported that bad weather and lack of time prevented Julian Freeman-Atwood and Crag Jones (U.K.) from making the first ascent of Cape Renard Tower (747 m) at the northeast end of the Lemaire Channel on the Antarc...
Denali National Park and Preserve, summary. Life is still fragile in the rangeæour human vulnerability became painfully evident again this year when three brothers perished on Mt. Foraker in an apparent avalanche, and one soloist fell to his death...
Cerro Torre, Patagonia. Just before this Journal west to press, the editor received, thanks to Sr. Rodolfo Benvenuti, of Buenos Aires, an account of the remarkable ascent of the Cerro Torre signed by all surviving members of the Austro-Argentine-I...
FALL ON ROCKS, CLIMBING ALONEWashington, Mount RainierOn June 7, 1982, Dr. Paul Shearer (60), a cardiologist from California and a locally- registered solo climber, broke his leg when he fell. He reported the following to Ranger Bundy Philips.Shea...
Ala Derecha, Possible New Route. On August 7, Erik and Grigota Monasterio (Bolivia-New Zealand) climbed the ice face to the right of Ala Derecha and to the left of the rock band, west of the small but distinctive pyramidal snow peak marked Cerro I...
Chimney Rock, North Peak, North Ridge. From an approach on the Overcoat Glacier, Donna McBain and I did this route on August 14. The first four pitches follow steep, lichen-covered rock, just east of the ridge crest, to the base of a large tower b...
Miyar Nalla, Lahul. Susan Brener, Barry Owen and I were in the Miyar Nalla area in September. After three days’ walking from Udaipur, we reached the glacier which leads up to the Kangla Jot. As we had only a short time at our disposal, we took the...
Grand Teton Direct North Face. Despite the fuming comments of the guide (Willi Unsoeld), Jolene Unsoeld (wife) dallies in bed at Amphitheater Lake until 5:30 A.M. The first ascent of the north face took 18 hours from the foot of the face, but Jole...
Prusik Peak, Lady Godiva Route. On May 28 and 29, Stephen Mitchell, Charles Sink, and I climbed Prusik Peak’s west face. The climb was done entirely clean with over forty chocks and involved about 40% aid. Begin climbing in cracks on the right-han...
FALL ON ROCK, OFF ROUTE, PROTECTION PULLEDAlberta, Kananaskis Country, Mount YamnuskaOn June 18, W and NB were climbing Grillmair’s Chimney (5.6, 8 pitches) on Mount Yamnuska. W was leading and went off-route. NB lowered W on a single piton, which...