UNKNOWN, CLIMBING UNROPED, PLACED NO PROTECTION, FAILURE TO TURN BACK, WEATHER Alaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn June 2, Karl Jendryschik and Jurgen Bruhm of the German expedition Saxonia 96, were separated from each other at Denali Pass. At...
Herrliche Alpentiere, by Bartholme Schocher. 4 to., 134 pages, with many illustrations from photographs by the author. Zürich: Rotapfel-Verlag, 1939.The author is a professional photographer of Pontresina, who inherits from his father (an ardent h...
Baintha Brakk (Ogre) Attempt and Tragedy. Our expedition hoped to climb the south buttress of Baintha Brakk. We were Swiss Phillip Groebke, Germans Michael Wärthl, Jochen Haase, Ansgar Baving, Florian Köfferlein and I. We got to Base Camp at 4500 ...
PULMONARY EDEMA—Oregon, Mt. Hood. On Saturday, June 11, a Basic Climbing Class led by Bill Davis ascended to a base camp at 8900 feet on Mt. Hood’s south side. One student, John Sargent (16) was quite long in attaining the base camp. He became nau...
Thorson Peak, South Buttress. A party of eight, including Arnold Bloomer and Keith Spencer, approached the peak via the Jefferson Lake logging road early in the season. A mile above the lake the mountainside was ascended to a chute at about 4000 f...
Le Ski, by Philippe Gaussot. 64 pages, 64 illustrations. Paris: Editions de Varenne, 1951.In this unpretentious book one finds much that is interesting about the development and methods of the French school of skiing. The pictures are exciting. On...
Mount Baker-Park Glacier Headwall. On July 4-5 Norm Bodine, Jim Friar and I completed a new variation of the Cockscomb Route on the northeast face of Mount Baker, the Park Glacier Headwall. One of the standard variations of this route ascends the ...
A.A.C., Blue Ridge Section. Closing out the decade for the Blue Ridge Section, 1989 was another year of increased activity. It is showing reemergence as the mid Atlantic representative of the A.A.C. Meeting more often than before, the Section plan...
El Toro. A most extraordinary find was made by two climbers, Erich Groch and Antonio Beorchia, when on January 28 they made what they had assumed would be the first ascent of El Toro (20,952 feet), in the Province of San Juan. On the summit they f...
Aconcagua, New Route. Guillermo Vieiro, Edgardo Porcelana and Jorge Victor Janson made a fifth new route on Aconcagua, one that ascends south of the Glacier of the Poles. It goes up three successive glaciers and a tooth of rotten rock and finally ...
A ries Peak, North Face. In mid-September John Lauchlin and I did a new route on Aries Peak, a somewhat unobtrusive formation 10 miles south of the Saskatchewan River crossing west of the Banff-Jasper highway. We climbed the prominent rock-and-ice...
Mount Shasta, Hotlum Glacier. Several fine glacier routes lead to the summit of Mount Shasta on its northern side. The Whitney Glacier, one of the largest, has been ascended several times, but the Hotlum, apparently, has been neglected owing to a ...
Huascarán Norte, North Face Solo, 1981. The Belgian climber Johan de Schepper soloed the French 1966 route on the north face of Huascarán Norte in July, 1981. He took two days to make this difficult climb.
AVALANCHE, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, TetonsOn April 25, Tim Drew (24) and Jerry Lucas (22) signed out at Park Headquarters to climb the Grand Teton by the East Ridge Route. The climbers were friends, working at the Targhee Resort on the west side of th...
FALL ON ROCK—HAND-HOLD CAME OFF, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, NO HARD HATNorth Carolina, Crowders Mountain State Park, Gumby RoofOn June 14 at 12:55 p.m. I was informed that Gaston County Sheriffs Department had received a 911 call from a cellular telep...
Canterbury region, summary. A couple of new alpine routes were climbed in the Canterbury mountains. Guy McKinnon, alone again, climbed a new 350m route on the east face of Mt. Evans (2,620m), while Don French and James Wright climbed a new route u...
Number of Accidents ReportedTotal Number of Persons InvolvedInjuredKilledYearU.S.A.-CAN.U.SA.-CAN.U.SA.-CAN.U.S.A.-CAN.1951142110319522932171319532427141219543141318195534392913195646715118195745532818195831372111195941–254–231–019–2196046–360–113...
Mariposa and P5680, Cordillera Vilcanota. Our group, Volker Vogt, John Harkness, Roger Hendrix, Susan Godfrey, Joseph Weis and I, made Base Camp on June 12 at 15,500 feet at the headwaters of the Río Pachanta, northeast of Ausangate. We attempted ...
Ice conditions. The most-classic ice routes of Grand Teton National Park melted out for the second year in a row. The Black Ice Couloir on the Grand Teton became unclimbable in the midsummer (2003), and the ice in the Northwest Couloir of Middle T...
Death Canyon, Cathedral Rocks, “Escape from Death.” This fine route (II, F7, A2) was climbed from Death Canyon on July 5 by Rick Reese, Ted Wilson, and Mike Ermarth. Starting in a large, prominent chimney at the base of the southwest ridge of Cath...