Razorblade Pinnacle, Mount Hood. On September 29, Cindy Long and I climbed the beautiful west arête of this hidden classic in the Sandy River Basin on Mount Hood. After a 2½-hour approach, we began up a grungy but easy first pitch that was followe...
The Yukon ExpeditionRobert H. BatesHave you broken trail on snowshoes? Mushed your huskies up the river?—Service.YUKON TERRITORY, Canada’s most westerly province, is bounded by the watershed of the Mackenzie River on the east, the bulk of continen...
Everest Attempt. In the post-monsoon 31 climbers attempted Everest from the Western Cwm. All but four climbers were on the permits of Austrian Hanns Schell and all used his route through the icefall and cwm. Murray Rice and I were a two-man expedi...
Annapurna, Northwest Face, and Dhaulagiri. Reinhold Messner, Prem Darshano, Hans Kammerlander, Reinhard Patschneider and Reinhard Schiestl established Base Camp below the northwest face of Annapurna at 4100 meters. Messner and Kammerlander reached...
McKinley climbed by Boy Scouts. Boy Scouts from Post 286 of the Western Alaska Scout Council in Anchorage undertook over a period of two years to prepare themselves for an ascent of McKinley, learning what skills would be needed. On June 5, scouts...
The First American Accident on the MatterhornJ. Monroe ThoringtonThe tragedy which overtook members of Edward Whymper’s party on the first ascent of the Matterhorn in 1865 was the most dramatic event in 19th century mountaineering. By that time th...
Kamet and Abi Gamin. An expedition of the Indian Border Security Force was led by Deputy Commander Chhering Ram. Bogged down by bad weather, landslides, road blocks and deep snow, they got to Base Camp only on May 17. Their last camp, Camp V at 71...
AVALANCHE-DID NOT READ PUBLISHED AVALANCHE WARNING, WEATHER, POOR POSITION, FAILURE TO FOLLOW INSTINCTS (ONE CLIMBER), CARRIED BEACONS-BUT NOT TURNED ONOregon, North SisterWe departed the Pole Creek Trailhead, 5,200 feet, at 1:00 a.m. on May 22 wi...
Jirishanca Norte to summit slopes. It is early July, and my climbing partner Iñigo Mujica and I have just gotten off the south face of Chacraraju, after completing the Bouchard Route in 25 hours. On arrival at our base camp at Laguna Jahucocha we ...
British Crags and Climbers, edited by Edward C. Pyatt and Wilfrid Noyce. 235 pages, 16 illustrations. London: Dennis Dobson, 1952. Price, 21/—.A stated purpose of this anthology is “to illustrate the foundation, the development and the present sta...
Southeastern Alaska: Mt. Juneau.In September 1950 John Crawford, of Sunnyside, Washington, 22, a summer employee on a government fisheries vessel in Alaska, attempted to climb directly up the west face of Mt. Juneau from the nearby city. Apparentl...
The South Face of Mount McKinleyRiccardo CassinTranslated by Marco T. EinaudiEven the birth of our expedition was difficult and — sorrowful: the idea of our climb on Mount McKinley had been urged by the well known climber from Lecco, Carlo Mauri, ...
FALL ON ICE, NO PROTECTION, NOT WEARING CRAMPONSColorado, North Cheyenne Canyon, Hully GullyOn January 30, moments before falling 170 feet to his death, experienced climber Reid Judson Hunt (32) asked two climbers at a popular ice wall in southwes...
ARTHUR BECKET LAMB 1880-1952Arthur Lamb, a member of our Club for 29 years, died suddenly on 15 May 1952 while on his way home from Harvard Chemical Laboratory. He was born in Attleboro, Massachusetts, of New England parentage and studied at Tufts...
Historical Note: Regarding the 1980 Italian Route (De Dona-Giongo) on Egger, Huber writes, “I [cannot say] if they climbed it or not. I just will say, what I saw and found (and didn’t find)…but for sure I will have an opinionHuber notes the conspi...
Ascents from the Lake of the Hanging Glaciers, Purcell Range. In August, Douglas and Betty Anger, Arthur and Claudia Maki and Bob and Peggy West visited the central Purcell Range, climbing. from a base camp at the Lake of the Hanging Glaciers. Thr...
VARIOUS FALLS – UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST WHILE GLISSADING, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS (3), OUT OF CONTROL FALLCalifornia, Mount ShastaOn January 18, a climber in Avalanche Gulch attempted to glissade on hard snow with crampons on, beginning at 11,500 fee...
1963. Everest West Ridge TraverseEd WebsterFor Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld, such a tentsite—if you could call it that—couldn’t have been a more thrilling perch for the night. From 27,200 feet up this prominent couloir on Everest’s north face, a...
Tagoujimt n’ Tsouiant, La Bas. Climbing has been a wonderful vehicle for seeing and enjoying some of the planet’s less-known nooks and corners. There are experiences that leave one gratified and richer from the journey. The Atlas Mountain village ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, HASTE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount YamnuskaOn the morning of April 25, 1992, Craig E. and Rob G. registered out for a climb of the eight-pitch route “Red Shirt,” about 270 meters high and rated 5.7, on Mount...