Chaturangi III Attempt. Britons A.S. Miller and R. Wright established Camp I on Chaturangi III (6304 meters, 20,683 feet) and on October 29 reached a high point 100 meters from the summit.Harish Kapadia, Editor, Himalayan Journal
El Mocho, North Face. A new route was climbed on this wall during the good spell of weather at the end of January, 1996. Argentinians Mario Rinkewicz and Stephen Wewell climbed a new line just right of the Salvaterra route.
Tetons: (2) Mount Owen. On 8 August 1947 Clement Rams- land, an instructor in Public Speaking at the University of Minnesota, fell during a descent en rappel from a position above the saddle between Mt. Owen and the East Prong. As first man down i...
Oak Creek Canyon, Lucifer’s Tooth, New Route. In late December, Ned Overs and I established a new line on the severely overhanging east face of Lucifer’s Tooth in Oak Creek Canyon, located just north of Sedona, Arizona. The 110-meter Black Sunshin...
When flying from Chengdu to Lhasa, you pass over more than 200, 6,000m peaks in the Nyanchen Tanglha East. Nearly all are unclimbed, and many are situated either side of the Yi’ong Tsangpo. In 2010 and 2011 Tibet became more sensitive, and access ...
Ama Dablam. Our expedition made the third ascent of the south ridge of Ama Dablam and the sixth of the mountain. We were Joan Massons, leader, Jordi Colomer, Ramón Bramona, Dr. Josep Barrachina, Emili Civis, Alex Alom, Lluis López, the Frenchman J...
Mt. Schou, Peak 8625', and Peak 8778', New Routes. In early July, Gary Green of McCarthy Air flew Chad Taylor and me to White River near Pingpong Mountain. We spent two days bushwhacking, river crossing, and scree scrambling up to our base camp on...
The Desert, various activity. Significant new routes were established on the Navajo Sandstone of the Colorado Plateau in 2002. Paul Ross, age 65, has been extremely active on the long slabs of the imposing reef at the eastern edge of the San Rafae...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, PROTECTION PULLED, FATIGUE, WEATHER, INEXPERIENCEVermont, Nichol’s LedgeOn October 22, Ian (22) and Ryan (23) were attempting to climb the first pitch of a two-pitch route unfamiliar to both. Ian was leading an...
Longs Peak. The “Doorway” route on the east face of Longs Peak starts at a point midway between the Stettner Ledges and Alexander’s Chimney. John Hough and Layton Kor made this new route on September 20. The first lead, 40 feet long, ends on a foo...
Mount Blackadar, St. Elias Mountains, 1983. On August 18, 1983 Bob Blackadar, Jim Brock, Michael Dixon and we two made the first ascent of Mount Blackadar (2035 meters, 6750 feet; 59° 51’ N, 137° 54’ W) on the east side of the Alsek River. The bas...
STRANDED, INEXPERIENCE, DARKNESS, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn November 11, 1982, Ranger Gary Colliver was the incident commander on a night rescue, which began about 1900, to bring two stranded hikers out of the upper portion...
Ulamertorssuaq, Moby Dick, First Free Ascent. One week after our departure from Copenhagen, Dusan Beranek, Ivan Doskocil and I from Slovakia reached Base Camp below Ulamertorssuaq. Also present were expeditions from Great Britain, Switzerland, the...
Gasherbrum II. Philippe Grenier, Dr. Christine Janin and I started our approach march on July 9 with 23 porters and our liaison officer, Major Sher Khan. We arrived at Base Camp at 16,750 feet on July 20. We had to climb first 3000 feet of glacier...
Palcaraju Oeste, South Face, New Route, Previously Unreported. In September, 1999, Frédéric Bréhédon and Benoît Peyronnard established Tempête de Joie on the south face of the 6110-meter, rarely climbed Palcarju Oeste in the Chinchey Group northea...
Annapurna, South Face Attempt. An expedition of five Yugoslavs and two Italians was led by Andrej Štemfelj. They attempted a new route on the south face of Annapurna between the British and Japanese routes. Warm weather triggered much rockfall. On...
Bugaboo Spire, Symposium. Wyoming climber Alex McAfee took advantage of excellent early August weather to complete a new route, solo, that he’d started the previous year. Symposium (15 pitches, VI 5.8 A2+) ascends Bugaboo Spire’s 1,600' east face,...
Ingalls Peak, North Peak, Northwest Ridge. On October 6, Dred Dunham and I completed this short but interesting route. We gained the ridge from a polished ramp on the west about 150 meters from the start of the ridge proper, which was too rotten t...
The Mazamas. The Climbing Committee, chaired by Lynette Zuercher, scheduled 243 summer season ascents, which included 38 Basic School climbs and 10 Ski Mountaineering climbs. After enduring the attrition of inclement Northwest weather, 179 success...
Kang Guru Attempt and Tragedy. Five Austrians and a German led by Norbert Raich hoped to climb Kang Guru by its southwest ridge. The high point was reached on October 22 by Raich, three members and two Sherpas. The next morning the German, Berndt ...