FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING UNROPEDOregon, Mount HoodOn February 29, Ralph Leach (40), Tom Morgan (53), and Lee Hepfer (49) successfully ascended the South Side (Hogsback) route on Mount Hood. At 1130 while descending the same route, Hepfer jumped the b...

FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HATNorth Carolina, Crowder’s Mountain State Park, OpinionatedOn November 23, a male climber (23) fell while climbing Opinionated (5.9+) on the Red Wall at Crowder’s Mountain State Park. According to reports, the climber was a...

Omission from the Pamirs Article, A.A.J., 1975. On pages 77 and 78 we unfortunately omitted the name of Marty Hoey. She did reach the summit of Pik Lenin with Evans, Lev, Stanley and Carson and waited with Lev for Williamson when he made his summi...

Sierra Club. Keeping pace with the Sierra Club’s conservation efforts, members were also very active in the mountaineering field. As usual Yose- mite Valley provided much of the challenge and new ascents. Most noteworthy of the new climbs that wer...

FALL ON ROCK, OFF ROUTE, NO HARD HAT, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, White Whale IIOn May 23, 1994, Jack L. McConnell (59) and his son Thomas H. McConnell (24) were climbing the White Whale Route II, 5.7, on the Left B...

ROBERT DUSCHINSKY 1900-1991Robert Duschinsky was bom in Vienna on October 25, 1900. He studied chemistry at the University of Vienna.He became a devoted mountain climber while still a student. He climbed the mountains in the surroundings of Vienna...

Rocky Mountains of CanadaNotes on the Early Exploration of the Canadian Rockies. Various discrepancies between Coues’ New Light on the Early History of the Greater Northwest (Henry-Thompson Journals) and Tyrrell’s Thompson’s Narrative of His Explo...

Mount Logan, Warbler Ridge or East-Southeast Buttress of East Peak. Our expedition was made up of the Canadians Jay Page, Frank Baumann, Fred Thiessen and me and the Swiss René Bucher. We called our route “Warbler Ridge” because of several visits ...

El Capitan, Passage to Freedom. I wanted to find a way to free climb the Dawn Wall and decided to attempt a line built around the aid climb, New Dawn. Andrew McAllum fixed ropes to the fourth belay. I spent several days on these pitches, closely i...

FALL ON ROCK, HELMET NOT SECURED PROPERLY Colorado, Boulder, First Flat IronIt was June 8. We had been working hard the last few months, warming up for our annual trip to Chamonix. We had decided to have an easy day on the First Flatiron. The easi...

French Youth Expedition to Ak-Su, Pamir Alai, Tadzikistan, and the Piolet d’Or. A group of young French climbers was selected by the Groupe de Haute Montagne. Under the leadership of Luc Jourjon, François Pallandre and Rémy Karle, they were Raphaë...

Mount Hunter, North Buttress Attempt and North Face. Todd Bibler, Doug Klewin and I attempted the north buttress of Mount Hunter in June. After flying in, we started early on June 12 and followed the prominent gully on the left side of the buttres...

Mount Hunter, Northwest Spur Variant. On April 12 Gary Bocarde, Nick Parker and I started on a new variant on the west ridge of Mount Hunter. After skiing around from the southeast fork of the Kahiltna into the basin north of the west ridge, we se...

FALL ON ICE, PLACED NO PROTECTION Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Moraine Lake, 3-3½ CouloirRonald and David Schuela, brothers in their twenties, were climbing the 3-3½ Couloir to the Graham Cooper Hut on 1 August 1979 without crampons. They took about ...

Qong Mustagh massif, circumnavigation, reconnaissance. Our five-man team of Vasilyi Ivanov, Edmundas Jonikas, Alexander Moiseev, Tadeush Schepanyuk, and I arrived in the village of Polu on September 9. Polu is situated on the Kourab-darja River, a...

Annapurna I, First Ski Descent. On April 29, 17 days after leaving Base Camp, Andrej and Davorin Karnicar left Camp IV on Annapurna. Before sunrise they reached the last rock 200 meters below the summit. On the far right side they found a narrow c...

Cuerno Este, Tropicana. On February 28, Nacho Erez and I made the second ascent of Tropicana on Cuerno Este. It was raining, but on this wall you can climb with bad weather.Hernan Jofre, Amerindia, Chile

Mount Louis, West Face. This face is the shortest, but it had apparently not been climbed before because of its loose nature and a forbidding lower wall of friable rock. John and Illa Rupley made the climb with me on July 31 after I had climbed th...

Mount Barnard, Glacier Bay. The first ascent of Mount Barnard (8214 feet), US-Canada Boundary Peak No. 160, was made on August 24 from the head of Tarr Inlet by D. Kenyon King, Peter H. Robinson and myself. Our route followed a glacier south of th...

FALL ON ICE, PROTECTION FAILURE-ICE AX TOOLAlberta, Banff National Park, Wicked WandaF.B. (32) was leading the crux pitch of this water ice Grade 4+ route on February 2. He was about three meters above an ice mushroom around which he had tied a sl...