North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, The Winged Horse, South Face
The Winged Horse, South Face. Rising above Lower Boy Scout Lake and just east of the Impala, the rugged summit crown of the Winged Horse rises above an appealing 600-foot south face. Late in the fall of 1969, Dan McHale, Joe Brown, and I completed the three hard lower pitches of the face, each of which involved bits of monumental effort. The route began at a pine tree and soon involved tricky friction climbing (F8, one bolt for protection). The second pitch had an awkward problem as we changed cracks, followed by off-balance nailing of a slanting crack. A pitch up the only dirty area (a groove hard to climb and protect) led to more broken and aesthetic rock on the upper face. Jam cracks and a long chimney led to the summit block. Jack Miller and I completed the climb on November 17, 1970, finding no sign of a previous summit visit. NCCS III, F8, A3.
FRED BECKEY