North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, The Winged Horse, South Face

Publication Year: 1972.

The Winged Horse, South Face. Rising above Lower Boy Scout Lake and just east of the Impala, the rugged summit crown of the Winged Horse rises above an appealing 600-foot south face. Late in the fall of 1969, Dan McHale, Joe Brown, and I completed the three hard lower pitches of the face, each of which involved bits of monumental effort. The route began at a pine tree and soon involved tricky friction climbing (F8, one bolt for protection). The second pitch had an awkward problem as we changed cracks, followed by off-balance nailing of a slanting crack. A pitch up the only dirty area (a groove hard to climb and protect) led to more broken and aesthetic rock on the upper face. Jam cracks and a long chimney led to the summit block. Jack Miller and I completed the climb on November 17, 1970, finding no sign of a previous summit visit. NCCS III, F8, A3.

FRED BECKEY