LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE California, Lone Pine PeakOn April 30, 1988, Dave Dykeman and a small group of climbers were descending from a peak climb that was aborted due to high winds. There was a week old snow cover on a variably breakabl...
Makalu. The French expedition to Makalu led by Jean Franco deserves high praise. Thanks to excellent organization, splendid equipment, especially in their oxygen apparatus, perfect and nearly windless weather and a strong team of climbers, they ma...
North Baffin-Bylot Expedition. Our object was exploratory mountaineering in the “high arctic.” We began operations from the settlement of Pond Inlet at the north end of Baffin Island in early August, returning in early September. Utilizing a chart...
Colorado, North Maroon Bell. On 9 October James T. Slade and Marcie Roseman (22) climbed the North Maroon Bell from Crater Lake and reached the top about noon. After an hour of rest they descended the mountain towards the snow-fields on the Crater...
HAPE, DESIRE TO DO WELLAlaska, Mount McKinleyCraig Scott (30) was a member of a RMI expedition to climb the West Buttress route on Mount McKinley. The expedition flew onto the Kahiltna Glacier on June 2, 1990. Scott was a triathlete and was doing ...
Swedish Everest Attempt. We are still waiting for details about a large Swedish expedition led by Ebbe Wahlund that attempted the North-Col route on Everest. They established Camp IV on the North Col late in April and Camp V at 7500 meters. We do ...
Disteghil Sar. The team consisted of four other British—David Briggs, Dennis Davis, John Cunningham, Keith Warburton—and one Italian, Piero Ghiglione, under my leadership. We went during May, June, and July 1957 to make a reconnaissance of Distegh...
Cerro Stanhardt and Torre Egger Attempts, 1993-4. From October 30, 1993 to January 24, 1994, we attempted two difficult new routes. Lorenzo Ortiz and I met our Argentine teammate, Teo Plaza, in Calafate and on October 30, we arrived at the Bridwel...
Annapurna IV Ascent, Possible Ascent and Tragedy on Annapurna II. Our expedition had as members Park Duk-Woo, Chang Byung-Ho, Jeong Jae-Ho, Kim Yong-Kyu, Jeong Kab-Yong, Jeong Joon-Mo, Lee Su-Jin, Cho Won-Bae and me as leader. We set up Base Camp ...
Notes on Names of Peaks in the Cordillera Huayhuash. The Quechua of different regions of Peru differs considerably. On the eastern slope of the Cordillera Huayhuash it is quite different from that of the Cordillera Blanca. For that reason and beca...
Gábor Berecz, Peter Dékàny, György Kiszely, Attila Szikdzai, and I placed Base Camp near Kedar Tal at 4740 meters on August 24. Due to constant cloudy and rainy weather, we were not too active for the first two weeks. On August 30, we established ...
Mango Gusor Attempt. Our team consisted of Bob Cuthbert, Canadian, Steve Kaagan, American, Bruce McPherson, Australian, John Sheard, Keith Nannery, Bob Shaw, Howie Richardson and me, British. We received permission to climb in the Karakoram only t...
North Howser Spire, The Shooting Gallery. In September, Christian George and I did a new route on the 3000-foot west face of North Howser Spire in the Bugaboos, British Columbia. The Shooting Gallery (VI 5.10 A2+), climbs the southwest buttress, s...
VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK, PROTECTION PROBLEMS, PULLING RELAYERS OFFNew York, Mohonk Preserve, ShawangunksThirteen accidents were reported in 1992, six of which resulted in fractures—the most serious injuries. In two cases, belayers were pulled from t...
FALL ON ROCK, OFF ROUTENorth Carolina, Stone MountainOn October 21, we approached the base of Stone Mountain to climb U-Slot (5.7) and then the Great Arch (5.5). On our way to the climb, I noticed two men moving rather slowly across the boulder fi...
Kohe Purwakshan, Wakhan Pamir. The Warsaw expedition was made up of M. Kolaczkowski, Z. Gmaj, W. Gorzko, J.S. Graczyk, M. Mikolajczyk, W. Obojski, S. Saganek, K. Sierakowski, M. Sygowski and me. Our primary object was to explore the Purwakshan val...
The Mountaineers. The year 1959 marked the twenty-fifth anniversary of The Mountaineers’ Climbing Course. Thousands of the course’s graduates have trod the summits of nearly all the Cascade peaks and have climbed many other mountains throughout th...
FALLS ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, RAPPEL ANCHOR KNOT CAME UNDONE, HAND HOLD CAME OFF California, Joshua Tree National ParkThere were nine climbing and four scrambling incidents reported from this location in 1994. Three of the scramblers were ...
HARRIET TRUMBULL PARSONS1901-1991Harriet Trumbull Parsons died on May 11 in Pacific Grove, California. She was born on October 26, 1901 in San Mateo, California, the daughter of the Right Reverend Edward L. Parsons, bishop of the Episcopal Diocese...
AlaskaMt. Marcus Baker (Mt. St. Agnes). The highest point (13,250 ft.) in the Chugach Mountains at the head of Prince William Sound, Alaska, appears alternately as Mt. Marcus Baker or Mt. St. Agnes on U. S. Government maps. The mountain was climbe...