Pigferago. A light French expedition operated in the Rolwalung Himal, between Gaurisankar and Namche Bazar. The group was led by Robert Sandoz and consisted of Mme. Cécile Barbezat, Alain Barbezat, Pierre Girod, Claude Maillard and Maurice Martin....
Annapurna Tragedy. A 14-man South Korean team led by Ko Yong-Chul abandoned its attempt after two members and four Sherpa porters were killed by an avalanche on September 19. The Korean victims were Lee Sang-Gu and Lee Seok-Jee; the Sherpas were D...
Rooster Comb Attempt. In August Paul Denkewalter and I made an attempt on the east face of the Rooster Comb from the Ruth Glacier. We reached 8200 feet in three days of climbing before retreating to wait out six days of rain and snow before return...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park (1)—On August 16, 1954, Roger W. Hollander (23) with one companion had ascended Disappointment Peak by the usual route. In the descent they took a short cut to Theater Lake by way of a snow gully 25 ft. wide. The...
Fisher Towers Area, New Ascents. Echo Tower, The Tapeworm (IV 5.8 A3, six pitches, 625 feet). The major new line on Echo Tower is located left of Run Amok on the south face of the landform. Pitch 1 begins up an A1 crack to 5.6 loose climbing then ...
Mount Kinabalu, Lows Gully, Second Ascent. In 1998, Steve Long had joined a trip to descend Lows Gully beneath Mount Kinabalu. The gully has long been famous as a mystical place of the dead and more recently infamous as the gully in which a group ...
Kun Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Carla Barbanti, Claudio Ansaloni, Gian Paolo Bassi, Ermanno Boccolari, Giancarlo Calza, Loris Duzzi, Pietro Feretti, Sergio Leoni, Massimo Lugli, Antonella Mezzadri, Luciano Pasquali, Gerardo Re Depaolin...
Broad Peak, winter attempt. Polish climbers Artur Hazjer and Robert Szymczak, along with Canadian Don Bowie and Pakistani climbers Qadrat Ali, Amin Ullah, Muhammad Ali, and Muhammad Taqi, attempted the first winter ascent of Broad Peak. This was t...
RAPPEL ERROR—HASTEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Cowbell CragOne Sunday morning in August, 1994, Phil M. went climbing at Cowbell Crag with his less-experienced friends Irf and Shakil. After climbing for two hours, they were descending a 50-meter face ...
Everest Attempt, Ridge on Northern Edge of Kangshung Face. Our members were leader Shinichi Hirano, Ryouten Hasegawa, Fumio Sakamoto, Sadaki Matumura, Nobumi Nakazawa, Tetuya Sano, Manabu Hirose, Kozo Takeguchi, Hiroshi Aota and I. After a 12-day ...
Mount Walsh. After walking across the head of the Hubbard, the Walsh and the Donjek glaciers from Divide Camp of the Icefield Ranges Research Project at 60°45' N. and 139°40' W. and receiving an airdrop at 10,000 feet, Miller Myers waited in camp ...
Cerro El Toro, New Route. On February 22, the Swiss brothers Stephane and Raphael Joliat reached the summit (6160 meters) via the Northwest Ridge. At 6030 meters they found an Inca deposit of wood forming an altar and at 6100 meters they passed In...
Kluane National Park, St. Elias Mountains. Climbing activity has again increased in the Park. There were 20 expeditions with 87 climbers spending 2099 man-days in the Kluane area. There was a new route climbed on Mount Logan and possibly a new rou...
Altar Group and Cayambe. An expedition from Waseda University was led by Junji Miyano. On June 28 Tadashi Hayakawa and Takeo Tsunoda reached the summit of Obispo (17,454 feet), the highest in the Altar group. When they reached the upper part of th...
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonLate on the afternoon of June 11, 1994, Mike Tucker (43) and Bill McDonald (39) were descending the Owen Spalding route on the Grand Teton following a successful as...
Mount Moran, West Dihedrals. This route which I climbed solo on June 28, 1979 is on a southwest-facing wall to the south of the Fonda Ridge. It starts to the right of a huge arch or roof, which is similar to the Cyclop’s Eye of El Capitan, and con...
Colorado Mountain Club. Three successful outings highlighted the activities of the club. The first, in early June, was a one-week boat trip along the shores of Lake Powell, recently formed by Glen Canyon Dam. The second was a two-week outing in th...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED Wisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkOn June 21, two young men (18 and 19) were climbing without ropes in a remote area of the park when one of them dislodged a rock and started to fall. The rock then struck the second ...
Whitney Portal Buttress, Wonderwall. This route was first attempted in June, 1978 by David Black, Kim Walker and me. Walker and I returned in April, 1979 for two more unsuccessful attempts. Jack Roberts and I made a first ascent on May 18-19 with ...
Edward W. D. Holway: A Pioneer of the Canadian Alps, by Howard Palmer. University of Minnesota Press, Minneapolis, Minn., 1931. Pp. ix, 81. Map and 8 illustrations. $1.50.Mountaineers will find in this little volume the authentic account of the as...