In July and August, Robert Jasper made a "by fair means" solo expedition, sea kayaking to the Fox Jaw Cirque, where he put up a hard new free route on the Molar. He was accompanied by friend and photographer Frank Kretschmann as far as the last In...
From October 13 to 21, Ramiro Casas and Glauco Muratti explored a quebrada (valley) that flows into the Tupungato River south of Punta de Vacas. The pair crossed the Tupongato with difficulty and then walked to the east and southeast along the unn...
An unprecedented five fatalities occurred within a six-week span on 14,137-foot Capitol Peak, one of Colorado’s most challenging 14ers. The mountain’s standard route, the northeast ridge, is a 17-mile round trip concluding with an exposed stretch ...
On July 23, a female climber (25, 15 years of experience) and her male climbing partner (24, six years of experience) were climbing the Northwest Buttress route (IV 5.9) on Capitol Peak. By simul-climbing most of the route, the pair was able to re...
IN LATE MORNING on March 5, Ryan Montoya, 23, had nearly completed a solo winter ascent of 14,018-foot Pyramid Peak, near Aspen. After spending the night at the foot of the peak and climbing the west face and northwest ridge (4th class), he was ab...
On September 30, three climbers (one male, two female, ages 27 to 31) were climbing Wherever I May Roam, a popular five-pitch sport route (5.9) on the northwest face. One of them led the third pitch, traversing up and left to an anchor on an arête...
On June 30, a male climber (age 40) was attempting Helium Woman (5.9) when he fell and impacted the ground, fracturing both of his ankles. He had stick-clipped the second bolt and had climbed up and right to a point between the second and the thir...
At 10:40 a.m. on May 7, John Jenkins (32) was ascending the South Side (Hogsback) route on Mt. Hood when he slipped on ice above the bergschrund and was unable to self-arrest. He was unroped at the time and fell approximately 600 feet into the Dev...
On February 17, during the Michigan Ice Fest, a woman and two men, all in their 20s, set out to climb the steep pillar of Strawberry Daze (WI4), approaching from the top. The men had climbed ice before but the woman, who borrowed ice climbing equi...
In 2016, the Julbo eyewear maker ran a competition, with the winner having the opportunity to climb somewhere in the world with mountain guide and technical adviser Christophe Dumarest. An accomplished “amateur,” Antoine Rolle (a member of the Fre...
Three accidents were reported in 2017 in which riders fell into crevasses on various Rainier glaciers, and one of them was killed.On May 27, a 24-year-old woman in a party of three that had summited earlier that day fell deep into a crevasse at 12...
On July 7, my climbing partner (Hayley Dukatz, 31) and I set off from high camp for a run at the Adams Glacier on the north side of Mt. Adams. We had both climbed the mountain several times via other technical and nontechnical routes. A strong, wa...
On February 16, at 11:10 a.m., park dispatch received a call that a skier had fallen down the Amora Vida Couloir on the south side of South Teton. Ranger Scott Guenther assumed incident command (IC) and spoke with the reporting party. She indicate...
On the morning of June 19, two climbers began ascending the Spoon Couloir of Disappointment Peak. The day was sunny and warm. Once the climbers reached the top of the couloir, they decided against continuing to the summit and instead planned to de...
On August 8, at approximately 2 a.m., ranger Chris Harder was notified that a climbing party was stuck on the CMC Route of Mt. Moran. The two climbers (male, ages 58 and 35) had begun their climb from the CMC Camp (about 2,600 feet below the summi...
On the afternoon of August 11, a 30-year-old male, Climber 1, and 23-year-old female, Climber 2, began an attempt on the Grand Traverse, a complex and challenging route linking ten Teton summits. Climber 1 had been climbing for about eight years, ...
On August 25, at 10:15 a.m., Grand Teton SAR coordinator Drew Hardesty was contacted by Exum guide Joe Stern, who reported that he had found a deceased solo climber at the base of the rappels on the southwest side of Peak 11,840’, a summit between...
On the morning of August 26, rangers received a call from a woman saying that one of her climbing partners was trapped under large boulders that had rolled over her in the Lower South Fork of Garnet Canyon. The party of three had been avoiding sno...
On Monday, August 28, Michael Sullivan, 54, fell to his death while descending from Steeple Peak. Sullivan and his climbing partner had done other ascents earlier that week in the Cirque of the Towers area. On August 28 they had reached the summit...
In March, Maciej Janczar and Tomasz Klimczak (Poland), based at the Lyngen Outdoor Center, added another winter route to the east face of Uløytinden (1,115m) in the south of Uløya Island. Their 500m line climbs relatively straightforward snow and ...